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Now you know why Ford purposely underinflated the tires ... It's a truck guys, a 4x4 no less, it's not supposed to ride like a car ... softer shocks just make it waddle

Well it might look kinda funny/ugly but that would definitely work ... in fact it would probably frost your eyebrows ...lol

If you have raw fuel coming out the exhaust then you also have contaminated oil. FIRST thing you should do after you find the problem and fix it is CHANGE THE OIL You need to pull the codes and then go from there but most likely it's a regulator problem

You still need a fresh air feed for the condensor, you have two seperate coils with two seperate intakes and two seperate exhausts .... you have to bring cool air into the condensor and keep it seperate from the exhaust or you'll ruin efficiency and run a high head .... On a window shaker the...

If you system is self powered then the crossover should be electronic and before the power amps ... they probably cheated and only put a crossover on the sub amp and let everything go to the satellite amps and speakers Electronic is definitely the way to go, a passive crossover that low of a...

In the Transgo Shift Kit there is a tips page and one is a piece on adjusting the kickdown A.) Follow cable from trans to adjuster B.) Depress tab and push cable housing into adjuster 1/2" C.) Road test: You must not have a 2-1 or 3-1 kickdown at 20 MPH D.) Then pull cable housing out of...

You'll need three ports, one for intake air to the condensor, one for exhaust and one to allow the condensate to drain .... Since you have a friend in the residential A/C why not have him pump the system down and just weigh in a charge? Unless he;s a hack he should have a vacuum pump and an...

< I even released all the hot air (really) that was in the system and tried to fill it.....nothing. > If you think that was a logical step in AC repair, you really need to have a professional look at it because you don't have a clue about AC/refrigeration ... if you had air in the system...

Maniak is most likely correct except it's the evaporator coil that freezes up not the condensor coil which is in front of the radiator

Laser is getting weak and probably overheating after it runs awhile which causes it to reduce power The thing that makes a CD 'Multiread' so it can read CD-R and CD-RW is more power to the laser, when the laser starts getting weak or the power automatically reduces due to overheating the...

Sounds like you may have a bad voltage regulator or a resistor out of tolerance in the line out section of the changer .... when your truck is running it'll see 13.8 volts but on battery it's only around 12 volts .... obviously the higher voltage is cauing a problem due to something being out of...

Mobile One at Walmart last week - $19.95 Motorcraft oil filter at Walmart - $3.50 Iowa sales tax (7%) - $1.64 ---------- Total - $25.09 25 bucks twice a year (I only put 5-6k on a...

The fuse holder connection on the PCB board has a broken solder connection, a common problem with all consumer grade crap .... Generally a robot (pick and place machine) loads the circuit board, it is then turned over and floated in a non-conductive liquid and a 'wave' of solder flows over...

The clicking is the laser trying to focus and slamming to the top and bottom .... The reason it won't work unless you put your hand over the top is one of the light sensors is seeing light when it shouldn't so most likely the player thinks there is no cd in it since the CD blocks the light in...

What you are seeing is the torque converter locking and unlocking ... if you start giving it more gas, say going up a hill, the torque converter unlocks and you'll see an RPM increase, when the load drops it locks back up again ... whether yours is unlocking too easily I couldn't say but I'd...

Make sure you use an inch pound torque wrench and the proper sequence on the valve body if you didn't before, I read in more than one place it's sensitive to improper torque and you'll lose OD ... I had no OD after doing a VB rebuild and although I did end up changing the OD solenoid too (no...

It wouldn't hurt to change your oil too, overheating will break it down and it's not worth taking the chance for $15 and a half hour of your time to change it Changing the oil is always a smart idea if you overheat or if you flood the engine because your oil is usually crap after either

How long are you going between oil changes now Al? I was thinking 3000 for the first because it will get a lot of the gunk out and then going to 5,000 mile intervals after that. I figure with the higher cost of dino oil with a 5000 mile interval the cost of using synthetic will end up about...

No issues with the tranny, just rebuilt the VB and put new O-rings in the Low/Reverse servo ... I also have the towing package with the secondary cooler .... VB was real clean, I bet I go over 100K before I have any problems .... maybe longer if I still have it

Don's method worked great for me ... BTW I have to insert the stick with the writing on the handle upside down ... I've checked it on a couple of occasions since and I get the same reading everytime and am confident it's correct ... The Explorer was easy, try reading an E250 van with it's 5...

My '91 EB has 3.73 and I believe that was part of the Towing Package along with the secondary tranny cooler ... If the OD is out I'd do one of Glacier's VB rebuilds, might as well put new o-rings in the Low/Reverse servo too ... to do the rebuild plus a basic overhaul kit for the o-rings and...

At current oil prices, which probably will never drop below $2.50.gal ever again, there isn't really that much difference in price ... I saw a 5 qt container of 'name brand' syn this weekend going for 20 bucks at Wally World ... another pleasant surprise is they started carrying Motorcraft...

They had a deal last month where they threw in a steering damper (Had to buy a mount kit for it though) I'm pleased with them although they might be a bit stiff for some people ... But it made a huge difference with them and the steering damper ...performance with braking, cornering, potholes...

My old Ranger ('85 2.0 carb) used to blow the damn things off all the time .... The rings were so bad I think there was more compression in the crankcase than in the cylinders ;-) Finally put in a PVC valve from a 2.9L V6 (If I remember right) which helped get rid of the crankcase pressure...

I have the dealer service records as well as a Car Facts verifying the mileage previous owner was an older woman in a small town in downstate Illinois ... just drive it and there is no doubt it's 57k not 157k The only things changed where the exhaust, brake pads, battery and rear U-joints...