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Mine had zero grease fittings when I got it. The steering components, steering end links and u-joints all now have grease fittings with the aftermarket parts. Suspension components is one area that I almost exclusively use Moog brand since they are a pain to replace and Moog tends to have extra...

I also replaced my upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and steering components. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced the upper and lower control arm assemblies with the ball joints and bushings preloaded. Pretty much all of these components get worn out by the time we reach...

I install these in pairs. When I replaced my front hub assemblies, only one side had a bad sensor also, but both bearings showed signs of wear. I’m sure you may get varying opinions about this, but that’s my 2 cents.

Torque to yield bolts and certain retaining nuts are single use, but I don’t believe this to be the case with the three hub retaining bolts. If the original bolts are in good condition, my [unprofessional] opinion would be to clean them up with brake cleaner and apply blue Loctite. Red is...

There are lot of colors available, but blue and red are the most prevalent, at least in my experience. This chart explains in detail: https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/PX-0716-2019-Threadlocker-Selector-Chart.pdf

The package should contain instructions regarding use of thread locker if not pretreated and the recommended torque specs.

That’s great to hear. Yes, that gigantic drain plug they put in these is a pain to get out the first time. Good luck with the front hubs. I was very glad when I changed mine out as there was some blueing of metal where they had built up heat on one of them.

Wow, thanks for pointing out the difference. I apologize for not seeing I was in the wrong forum and for any confusion I may have caused.

You had asked earlier in this discussion how to verify that have a LS vs. open differential. I’m slightly confused about this since you also said one shop mentioned the clutch packs and you are referring to the TSB again. Did you or the shop verify that you actually have an LS diff? My apologies...

I had the same issue except mine was stuck on heat, and it was caused by the blend door actuator. Assuming that you have standard controls and not the automatic, dual-zone system, 4 hours is probably about right depending on skill level. I had to remove my center console along with other panels...

The shaking of the vehicle side to side may not be doing anything. Both of my fobs are aftermarket which may be irrelevant. I programmed both of them off the one original that I got when I bought the truck before it died. They usually work without issue, but on occasion I have to press the...

The WPT994 looks like what fits the sensor, but this is by visual only. I have not verified fit personally. The fuel injector connector shows to be the Dorman 85850 or equivalent.

Gotcha. Given what I can understand from your description, this does not sound like differential noise. If it were me, I would be removing the rear wheels to inspect the brakes (disc and parking drum) for pad wear indicator tabs, dust shield rubbing, misadjusted parking brake and shoe condition...

These Explorers are bad about breaking fresh air doors, but I have not seen issues with the other doors so far. Getting the actuator back in is tricky. The blend door mechanism and the actuator shaft have to be lined up just right and there isn't much room to work. I think when I put mine back...

So many things it could be. Mine made a lot of noise when I bought it, and In the end, I had a few things making noise that have been resolved. My parking brake shoes were bare when the rear wheel bearings and CV axles were done, so they got replaced also. Makes me wonder if they had an issue...

If this is manual control (simple blue to red dial)?If so, have you checked the temperature blend control?

With that many miles, if the alternator is original, the brushes may be worn out. If they wear far enough, they can damage the rotor. Have you taken the alternator to have it tested?

Hard to tell without hearing it, but do you have someone that can watch while you reproduce the sound? If tie rod ends are worn, one wheel could be moving back and forth slightly and producing the knock sound. If the bumper end is dragging, they should be able to see this as well.

My bad. I missed that.

Additional thoughts: what components could have been disconnected during the tune-up, and which ones could have been otherwise disturbed? As Mbrooks420 mentioned the CPS, the CPS harness does run right by the coil pack, so it could have been disturbed if it is getting brittle, etc. They may have...

Is this the other part you are looking for? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2604290&cc=1354553&pt=13326&jsn=1038

May or may not be related to the work that was done. With that many codes surfacing at the same time, I wonder about bad engine ground strap(s) or ground connections. You can actually have a ground strap corrode internally (insulated type) without it being evident upon visual inspection...

I would start with retracing what you had to disassemble. On my ‘04, which I believe is the same as yours, the intake manifold has to come off to get to the valve covers properly. The disassembly process involves multiple associated electrical and vacuum connections that could have been missed...

2WD does not need axle nuts for the front hubs. The part is the same as LMHmedchem said, but there is no CV axle going through splined shaft hole in the 2WD application. I am a big fan of the Moog parts, and would recommend this route or one of the other brands mentioned if you plan to keep the...

I installed the WJB heavy duty assemblies in Feb of 2019. Have been good for me. Part: WA515050HD $60.79 ea. (10% Instant rebate right now, so about $55 each) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2004,explorer,4.0l+v6,1427767,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636