Search results

Just an update: I put the front end back together on the 20th and put 1000 miles on her over Thanksgiving weekend. No problems whatsoever so far, working like a charm. :D

you don't see this every day :D

That was my first question after realizing they should have pressed in. I talked to a NAPA employee who contacted the manufacturer, and they have been producing them for years without ever having this kind of issue. They told him they should be 44.5mm in diameter where it fits into the LCA. I...

Probably a bit late for this but.. on my 95 they were 24mm. I replaced with NAPA BJs and they came with a new, bigger, 27mm castle nut. Also the tie-rod end castle nuts were 21mm, stock & aftermarket, and the tie-rod end jam nut was 18mm IIRC.

Have you checked your halfshaft CV joints? Binding could cause tight spots and noise, and its effect would be more pronounced when the suspension is flexed over bumps and railroad tracks.

Who sells Fox 2.5's for $300?

Update on this: I've got some problems. Apparently when I pressed out the old BJs, I must have warped the hole in the LCA very slightly. It isn't visible, but the BJs should have a press fit so they don't move around inside of the LCA hole! :eek: That's exactly what's happened to me. When I...

I replaced the upper control arms on both sides with TRW replacements from Advance Auto and they were both a very tight fit. After the bolts were through, and before attaching to the spindle with the pinch bolt, I noticed they didn't move up & down easily. They tended to return to their original...

bump Can anyone tell me if the driver's side wheel should spin with the pinion flange? That seems the most likely indicator that my gears are destroyed.

My only experience with TRW's was opening the boxes after I brought them home and found one with a completely torn open boot. I returned them both and went to NAPA for some more expensive ones with grease fittings :o

I've got a 95 Limited. I was about to replace the halfshafts, because I have slight popping when driving and the CVs seem the culprit. I haven't used 4WD in a while, as the front diff looked like it had a leak and I didn't have the time or money to have it repaired. Jacked up and taking a...

The halfshaft removal procedure listed in the factory service manual and in Jefe's thread here http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53863&highlight=differential+seal says to simply pry the inboard end of the shaft from the differential housing (the Ford manual actually says to...

It seems most guys on here get alignments professionally done. Is this something that can't be done by yourself, or do shops use some high tech machines to make everything super accurate? Also does it make a difference what type of shop you go to? I was thinking about just going to the auto...

No I didn't detach the halfshaft from the spindle. I did detach the tie rod ends. You shouldn't need a pickle fork for those, only a new cotter pin. Mine slid right out after removing the pin, loosening the castle nut, breaking it free with a balljoint press, and removing the castle nut. Also...

How hard is it to replace these?

It's possible to replace/repack the wheel bearings without replacing the whole hub assembly? Can I ask how, or where I can find out how? I thought these were sealed units.

I was suprised that the new joints went right in. They were practically the same size as the hole, and slid right in. I had to hold them up before I put the retaining clip in to keep them from falling out. They seem snug with the castle nuts holding them though. I used the NAPA part # listed in...

The upper arm was detached from the spindle. The boot was slightly damaged unfortunately. Once free, I spent about 15 minutes wrestling with the spindle and pulling, pushing and prodding until the lower BJ barely slipped out. Amazingly tight. New BJ went in amazingly easily. In fact it was...

Hmm.. I have a brand new upper bj/control arm there.. can I pop that baby back out with a fork without hurting the rubber boot on it? I don't want to shell out another $100 for a new one again.

I drove the vehicle around quite a bit today. I assumed since the cotter pins were still in place, it wouldn't fall apart or anything - I was right. I purchased a few more necessary tools and began. I'm a bit upset as this is the first time I've gotten bad advice from this forum, but I've run...

OK thanks. I already purchased the parts and just sprayed some PB Blaster on the bolts. I was looking through the parts I purchased at Advance Auto and :( one of the ball joints they gave me has a massive hole ripped around the dust boot. I'm going to return them & get the better ones with...

Does anyone know the difference in replacing the lower ball joint & outer tie rod between 2WD and 4WD 2nd gen models? I have this link http://www.haroh.com/explorer/ball_joint.html which details the 2WD method. I'd like to know if there's any missing steps or tools before I start tearing it...

I've noticed all fiberglass fenders with larger wheel wells on 2nd gens look strange. It seems due to the curved nature of the headlamp/turn signal assemblies. The wheel wells bulge out while the front end stays stock width. It would be cool if there was a kit which included a new wider...

Here's some reading on the TrueTrac: http://www.tractech.com/Products.htm#slip http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0412em_tratech/

I'm a shade-tree mechanic. I've done some automotive work, but not much. Most of my experience and knowledge lies in software, chips and electronics. I could use the help of some knowledgable experienced mechanics that I've seen in these forums. I'm not very familiar with engine dynamics and...