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Ha! Great logic. You're absolutely right. There is no patent on those, so copy away. Morals schmorals! Right. Completely redesigning a product to be stronger and more durable than the original is the same as copying. I tip my hat to your lack of shame, kert. Very impressive...

Even as desensitized as I am to the shameless ways of the general population, it still surprises me at how blatant people are about cheating or stealing as long as it benefits them. For those wondering about the Autofab mounts, I've owned several sets and have been super happy with them...

Danny, Like I said on DR, Hell of a buy! I'm jeleous! Do you know who built it?

Trophy Trucks?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1603205

The OE rear shock on an Explorer has about 10" of travel. You can build a bolt-on adapter to use any universal or rebuildable 10" travel shock in the stock location. Here's a bad pic of the adapters I made out of some scrap:

If they have a mono-tube gas-charged option, go with that. If not, pass on the shocks and buy some Bilsteins.

From what I see it's usually 12-24,000 miles. sometimes struts make it longer.

The D50 axle-housings are different lengths.

For those of you interested, check out the March 2007 issue of Off-Road.

BTW: Not to be a jerk and put down anyone's opinion or experiences, but just about anything made by Monroe and Gabriel, including Rancho, Reflex, etc is crap. Like I said, we've tried just about everything and none of those held up at all. I've never tried OME shocks, but we've found a damn...

I work at a large independent repair shop and if your Explorer came into the shop for shocks I would have KYB Monomax installed in the front and KYB Gas-A-Just in the rear. I've tried just about everything out there and nothing holds up like a monotube shock. The Monomax give a great controlled...

The size of shock needed depends on what you want to do with it. If it's going to be used mostly at slow speeds (crawling) then a 2.0" shock will be fine. If you plan on driving fast then a 2.5" is the way to go. The length depends on where it will be mounted. Getting 15" of travel should be...

What's wrong with the safety glass that came in it from the factory? Why would it matter if it shattered?

Glen at Radflo goes all out for his customers. Definitely stop by and talk to him.

I live on the mesa about 5 miles from the oceano entrance to the dunes.

IZwack, I agree with everything you said, but I this thread is about a desert set up so that's what I was focusing on.

Well, at the time of that pic it had the exact opposite of lift. All but the main leaves were removed, the bump stops removed and the axle tubes were resting on the frame rails. I was cycling the rear suspension to get measurements for the rear shock mounts. Because they were mounted inboard of...

LOL.

BTW: Maybe our previous encounter was under my old screen name prerunnersvo. If there's any way to combine the two names that would be great.

Retract the claws kitty, I wasn't trying to pick a fight. Here's a pic of 31x10.50's on stock wheels at full bump. Notice that the tire is just barely under the stock sheet metal. Also keep in mind that most aftermarket wheels are offset a little more putting the tire further out. Add a...

It'll fix the problem if that's where the noise is coming from. When does it clunk? Are the U-bolts tight?

Jefe, You don't have to use SAW oil and if you can revalve a shock you can rebuild it. scootr, I think those questions are best answered in a new thread. There are too many variables to give short answers.

I think we've gone back and forth over this already, but... If you don't modify the sheet metal the 33s ans 35s will rub at full bump.

Unless you're buying new, I say just buy whatever you can find at a good price. If you're buying new then first decide on dimensions (Sway-A-Ways have the shortest collapsed and extended lengths) then pick a color. Everything in our price range is basically the same and follows the same...