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That sounds good for getting it off....but how do you get the new one torqued back on correctly without getting a wrench on it?

Don't worry about it gadd. I probably could have been more clear when I wrote it up. But anyway, all of the clutch parts were new to me except for the flywheel which was resurfaced. I guess I assumed I was getting new parts from Dial-A-Clutch but I suppose they could be rebuilt too. I dunno...

so anybody know how to replace an input shaft bearing?

Thanks for the input gadd. I got my replacement clutch from Dial-A-Clutch and it came with a new pressure plate. From what I have read around here, Dial-A-Clutch seems to be the way to go, so I think the new parts I put in were quality parts. Any other ideas anyone? Please!

I'm getting a really bad shudder throughout the entire vehicle when I engage the clutch in first gear or reverse from a complete stop. It's worse when trying to start fast or if starting on an uphill incline. It's non-existent shifting between all other gears or from a rolling start or...

Anybody have anything on this? I think I am having the same problem...bad input shaft bearing. I did the same thing...thought it was the throwout bearing and replaced clutch but the noise is still there. Pretty much a whiring that goes away only when stopped with clutch pushed in. Is the...

Thanks Ben. Yeah, I better replace them.

My tranny has been leaking fluid for a while now. It's been getting worse and is up to about a quart every couple of months. I figured it is the 3 plugs I've seen mentioned many times. I looked at them from the top and expected them to be dried out and/or missing. But all were there and they...

That seemed to do the trick. I cracked the fittings coming from the MC and one-at-a-time had my brake helper (wife :) ) pump up the brakes and then hold it and I loosened the fittings for a second and then tightened back up while I held a rag underneath to catch the fluid. Did it about 4-5...

Yeah, that's what mine says too, but I only have the rear anti-lock so I don't think that will be a problem. (At least I hope not!!) Thanks DMB for the help. I'll give that a try. I think I'll be able to get them loose. They look a lot better than some of the other lines I just replaced...

Oops! I overestimated the capacity of the MC res. when bleeding the brakes and ran it dry! After getting what I thought was all the air out, the pedal feels spungy and I don't have full braking ability. Is there anything special I have to do after letting air into the MC? I have a 91...

I'm replacing my steel brake line from the RABS thingy :confused: by the drivers door back to the hose that attaches to the rear diff. I bought standard 3/16" line thinking that is all I would need. Upon further inspection it looks like the fitting to the RABS unit is slightly bigger...

Thanks for all the help guys. From the sounds of it I should probably just replace the wheel cylinder because they are the originals. We'll see how that goes. I may try to torch it as a last ditch effort. Haven't made up my mind yet.

Help. I sheared off the left rear bleeder screw trying to get it open. :( It was rusted shut. Yes, I used penetrating oil. Now what? Is there any way to get it out???? Or do i have to replace the brake backing plate? any help would be appreciated.

I was about to pull out of the driveway the other day when the brake pedal went to the floor. I backed up and tried it again and the same thing happened. Looked under the truck and found puddles of brake fluid and dripping near rear axle. When I press the pedal it shoots out like a high...