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I still have Firestone Destination A/T on my 1992 ;)

Company specs for Explorer first generation 1991-1994 are 32PSI for 2wd and 26PSI for 4wd. Thats all everything said.

post a picture here and we gonna tell you

Hertel or Mr.Net cleaner spray it everywhere and then start the engine...when it get hot it will make a lot of white smoke so its time to use the water hose ;)

They are selling cream shoes polish to keep shoes from outside weather...it is oft and hydrate the letter. go see in a shoe store...mine is white cream in tube.

So anyone else have an advice or comment?

Yes this one is better and you have to take off 30% from those numbers for your overdrive

This dont even work calculate correctly man it give me over 62000 rpm hahaha

This table is not useful because 235/75R15 give 29 inches and some diff ratio are lower than 3.31 and anyway it also depends on the gears of the tranny. My tranny is working almost like new so compare it to mine I have A4LD tranny with 1354 electrical transfer case and 3.27 diff. I have 1600 rpm...

if you meant rocker panels then www.lmctruck.com

Dont forget they also came in the Aerostar 4WD...but not the 2WD....even f its the same tranny those on 4WD are made with dtronger internal parts

Theres a lot of you having first gen explorer that seems to have higher rpm than me....i am curious to know what is the ratio of your differential? Dont forget the guy who started the thread had an automatic transmission A4LD so dont try tp compare manual trany or other generations explorer to...

Black org....you mean a plastic black ball ??? It is he EGR vacuum canister

i never use 4X4 low for other thing to pull something short distance or get out of the snow...doing long distance in 4X4 low would be stupid. If i have to do long distance then i use 4X4 high my 1354 transfer case is 1:1 ration on 4X4 high and 2.48 on low. I just engage the 4X4 high and both set...

If i engage the 4X4 on any surface its because i need it and want it ...why care about the 2WD low why should i need the 2WD except for highway use??? Anyway lol 4X4 or 2wd for normal use. I have switch in dash when i need power i dont use the 2 wheel low iput it in 4X4 thats all. Electric...

In fact i have auto lock with 3.27 diff's and it give me a final ratio of 19.65 in 4X4 low...dont need to slam the gaz too hard to advance hehe

Also you should maintenance them more often...they cost 180$ each at the ford dealer. :P

I know that but anyway its not a problem to back off ...in condition you are not so stupid to back of where you where stuck haha

They disengage when you press the swithc in-dash.

Sincerly i have original 207000 kms original hubs and they still work. People dont usually know how to clean them and grease them...too much grease will worn them because it wont engage correctly and not enough grease will overheat the hubs. The fact is that some guys dont just love to learn...

I dont use synth oil since the truck is 207000 km's and lot of rust so it worth around 500$ :P But the engine still have really good compression from 165 to 180 psi. I use conventional oil made in canada Autolab. It smell weird, different than other oil i dont know why but i never add problems...

Ok you dont seem to be lucky...for me it worked.For engine additive i dont know but what the hell anyway my engine only leak small drops from oil pan gasket so ill let it go like that

I am ready to change my oil and will put high mileage oil in it. For those who use high mileage oil tell me which one you use and why? 1-Valvoline 2-Penzoil 3-Quaker state 4-Castrol GTX

It depends what company you buy additives...but Lucas is really known for good quality...stic kto company like that for additives.

If the fluid is the problem its sure that it is good to put an additive in the new fluid. If its mroe than fluid....anyway it will break someday so the extra 15$ will give you a delay to get another tranny or get cash to repair the one you have.