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either way...if he can afford it...a bigger alternator will only improve the overall electrical system

noise coming from a fuse?

there is nothing wrong with running another ground wire to the back...But I do more than the least possible for electrical. Wire is cheap...and upgrading grounds does a lot more than 99% of people think.

replace every ground you can find...including underneath the truck

i would drill a hole and ground to the frame...or you can go through the little boot that is under the flap to get underneath the body. I would also upgrade the body to frame grounds

polyfill creates heat thus making the volume of air seem larger to the subwoofer.

if your voltage is dropping into the battery reserve for long periods than a high output alternator is needed The cutoff point for me is if the voltage drops below 12.5 volts upgrades are needed. Not necessarily a new alternator but electrical upgrades

yeah not a good ground

most people think they have "fine" grounds...but using an existing bolt is not a good practice as these areas are usually high resistance points. I would also ground the HU chassis to the amp chassis to reduce noise

for clarification...amplifiers do not "put out" ohms...ohms is the measure of the load presented to the amplifier.

to each there own....thread that is

get a video up with a handful of coins on the roof. Its a good measure of flex with the slow frame rate of the camera. this is with only a single 12 and 250 watts

nice...I see you understand the real world benefits of a custom bass reflex enclosure. Most idiots I talk to who think they know about speakers always talk about ported enclosures but have no idea what net volume, resonant frequency, or what a helmholtz resonator is. I just smile and nod...

packing peanuts

sound damping mat will do nothing for a proper sealed enclosure. Polyfill and stuffing only makes the enclosure "seem" up to 20 percent larger than it is. poor sound comes from a poor enclosure. 4X50 I disagree with ported being not as punchy or tight as a sealed enclosure....it is all about...

Pyle amps are of the LOWEST QUALITY...please stay away.

your comparison does not relate to sound and the travel of sound. sound waves are longitudinal as in differences in pressure...they do not travel in the way water makes waves. I would go with some high quality 6x9s over 6.5s. Why? My reason is not because of the bass...i do not care...

any material can be made into a speaker baffle as long as it is strong enough and water resistant enough.

there is a harness but not all of them work because Ford made a few different plugs for the same year trucks. On my 98 XLT I had to cut the plugs off and splice the wires directly

main factor in the output of a speaker is the enclosure...not the amplifier

VERY FEW people know the importance of proper sound damping. Good job.

Subwoofers do NOT "require" the rated RMS power. That number is merely a thermal rating. Power handling largely depends on the enclosure and loading environment. Also "MAX power" is a made up number...it is not an indication of how much power a subwoofer can handle. Looking for a subwoofer...

those are just midwoofers I wouldn't use that enclosure for subs any way...too small and you have no idea what the tuning frequency is.

Battery charger would be the worst option. What you need is a 12 volt power supply.

around 12 volts at rest...while the engine is running the voltage must be higher to charge a battery.