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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Nice Jeep.. if your interested in an 8.8 i have an extra without backing plates *im converting my 91 x to disc. but i have the drums. it is a traclok 3.73 ford 8.8. make me an offer
Ok before i catch Flak for it being a gm... My explorer is in the middle of a rear disk conversion. I have a 83 k 20 suburban and an 85 chevy c30 cab n chassis. I am going to part out the suburban to create a 4x4 k30 offroad cab n chassis. I will be building a tube flat bed spring swaps (from...
Well water leads to corrosion, I had the same clicking problem after washing my engine so this is not outta the scope of reality. I'd suggest new cables and ends. You want to check the starter relay, not sure which one it is. They are below the fuse box in the engine bay. :D:roll::D
If it clicks and doesn't turn over the engine that would point to the battery cable (pos and neg) corrosion. It is a common problem on this generation of explorer as for the hydrolocked engine. I would have suggested removing the spark plugs first. Try replacing the terminals and battery cables.
For your overheating problem...Make sure you "burp" the system so no air is trapped in the system....It could also be a cracked head...or head gasket causing it to boil out.
Cps Maybe???
Well it could also be (going out on a limb here) the CPS...when an engine is cold *below 180* it runs off of KNOWN values. After it warms up it goes off of Given Values.:cool:
How long has it been since you did your plugs and wires...mine was missing pretty bad before i replaced them....also might want to do your fuel filter as well..;)
To replace the flex plate i have always had to remove the exhaust to manifold connection. Then i separate the engine and trans. After i proceed with removing the flex plate....have fun!:roll:
Well here goes.. I would check the following:
Bleed System, Check rear shoe adjustment, check rear wheel cylinders, RABS valve. Power booster rod adjustment may have a role in this as well.....;)
Whenever i removed an engine working for Lexus (i know not a ford) we removed the transmission first then the engine....Only a few applications did allow me to remove both at the same time....its all about clearance in the trans tunnel and bellhousing cutout in the fire wall. Applications differ...
I have 3 vehicles and I use 3 different fluids in each. In my "Work Truck *83 c*&$y 454 4x4 Suburban* I use 10w hydraulic oil, In my 82 Trans am I use Mercon ATF. Power Steering Fluid seems to be foamy..and easily hits 200*. In the 91 explorer i use Synthetic Power Steering Fluid. It is all...
Ill keep my ear to the ground but have your fun with it it will cost about 800$ to build it to take bout 350rwhp. Go to www.thirdgen.org :D go to tech writeups and you'll see tons of tips on beefin it up. Pm me with ?'s:salute:
They were 455's in the oldsmobiles as well...forgot im not on a :censored: site (:eek:) its a bop engine. Buick, Olds, Pontiac.
here are a list of the bop engines
Buick sb: 305,350,350*
Buick BB: 400,430,455
Olds sb: 307,350
Olds BB: 400,400*403,455
Pontiac sb: 260,301,305
Pontiac BB...
I didn't think you were calling me wrong...just saying google 302 and both come up....as for the 455 that was a solely buick block, not a chevrolet production. Yes the 455 is a GM block prone to rod throwing...(learned from a jet boat motor my buddies have)! :D we had fun doin it though!:chug:
It is not a dual carb don't worry, and as for the rear axle it is a POS. 7.5"ring gear *picture a dana 30 for your rear axle* that is the equivalant... and Kyle0614 please research before claiming something....:salute:
Sorry for the hijack....find a ford 9" from a car and drop that thing in...
302
GM had the following displacements....
262,265,267,283,302,305,307,327,348,350,400, Small Block
396,402,427,454,455,502. Big Block
it is a 3" stroke and a 4.00" bore
It was an overbored 283 (3.750"):shoot:
Auto Hubs
HMMM the old Auto vs Manual debate.....If the auto hubs are maintained (a PITA) they work fine....But i will second the motion for Manual conversion....try a search on the jeep style hub conversion its allegedly stronger.:bounce:
Resistors
Well id say go for the 1/2 watt but i would assume the 1/4 watts are being overtaxed...but im not so much an electrical guy...im an engines guy>:D
Welding the Diff
Just a word of warning on those 80's F-body cars......the ring gear in the axle is only 7.5" in diameter....(dana 30 status) i own an 82 trans am with a 68 302 z28 motor and have gone through 3 ring and pinion sets in less than 20k. As for the actual welding all you need to do...