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ya i'm gonna go to pyp sometime in the next two weeks and pull two axleshafts. as far as the gears go, the picture doesnt show the heavy stress lines very well on the drive side. i'm not sure if those stress lines will eventually break the teeth off or not. i'm currently 'negotiating' with the...

Well I think if gots it fingered now, its a write-off. Here's a pic of the problem: The numbnut that I bought these off of doesnt seem to know his head from his ass when it comes to setting up gears.

OK finally got a spare moment to pull the rear axle apart. Here's what I found: Gear fluid was all metal shavings. Axle shafts are rounded from the tip to 3/4 of the way in. Inside of trac-lok does not appear worn. Ring has no pattern on the heel and all on the middle-top toe. Inner...

Hmmmm. My TTB nuts threaded right on my 79 RA arms. Differences in years I guess... At any rate there are only 4 combos for the nut. Standard, Metric, Coarse, Fine. Yours will not be Metric(I guess), nor Fine thread. So hence you need a Coarse-Standard 1 1/8" or close to. Spend $20 on nuts...

What year RA's? If they are 78-79 its a 1 1/8" (exact same as your stock RA nuts).

No I didnt look at any of the internals on either axle. I purchased them because the previous owner runs a driveline shop and the R&P, bearings, trac-lok, etc were supposeldy brand new and just broken in.

Ya, gearsets are the same, 4x4 works like a charm. Here's a pic of the front hub once you pull the metal cap off: If its anything to do with the rear axle I'm gonna be pretty upset with the guy that sold them to me...

Have a D44 front with full time hubs and 9" w/trac lok in back. Rear fender height is 42" and front is 40.5" on 33's. New driveshaft 4" diameter lengthened to 51". THe troubles start when I drive it. it has a serious 'hummmm' to it, sounds like the old school buses but worse. Gets louder with...

:commencing thread hijack: So is yours gonna look something like this: :end thread hijack: ;)

Well I'll have to check out whether the 8.8 cables can be put into the 9" drums. Stupid me I didnt even think of that. Too much fabrication, too many problems, this solution would be too easy, unlike the rest of the project.

I've got a 9" in the back now along with a fender height of 41". The 9" e-brake cables are mean to run down the center of the vehicle, not on the drivers side like an Explorer. How do I hook them up? ANy ouside-the-box thinking here?

Damn talk about pulling an old thread up, this ones sat dead and buried for nearly 4 years!! Gas-wise, make sure your tires are as inflated as you can safely put them, around 32-34PSI.

Depends on which bushings you put on. Rubber deteriorates a lot quicker than polyurethane in the presence of heat...

Jack one of the rear tires off the ground and try to spin it with e-brake off and truck in 'N'. If you can spin it freely you dont have Trak-Lok, if you cant then you do. Trak-Loks use clutches (sp?) and friction to transfer power between the wheels. The previous owner may have installed one??

I dont put any faith in any of the Explorer guages. My alt runs at "R" in the summer and at "18" during the winter, yet reads 14.2-14.7 at idle. Yea it bounces around a bit when shifting gears and turning lights on/off, windows, you'll get used to it...

Hmmmm. I was over at Galiath's place the other night and bought some rims off him and he had a 9" slip yoke that fit right into his Jeep driveshaft. I figured if he could do it to his teeny tiny driveshaft then I must be able to do the same to my Explorer. BTW, he's got a set of revolver...

Come on you SASers. I know you know the answer to this!!

Is the Explorer driveshaft considered coarse or fine? I want to put a 1330 slip yoke from a 9" in place of mine so that I'm not running combo u-joints (when I put my 9" in). Last time I had my slip yoke out I forgot to count the threads on it. Anyone know the # or diameter?

WHen's the winch coming? Are you going on the Waiparous run on the 29th? I wanted to have my SAS done over Christmas break but I still waiting for parts to come in and custom brakelines to be built. So I wont be ready, but Jer and I are gonna take his truck.

For the drivers side, disconnect the 2 bolts holding the fuel filter to the frame. Let it hang down as far out of the way as possible and wrap it up in a towel or drape some welding gloves over it so that a sparks wont ignite anything. It shouldnt but better safe than sorry. It just takes a...

7/8". I posted that question a little while ago and that was the answer I was given.

Why not run full width? Cutting down 3" seems like a lot of work. I'm in the process of making my own wristed arm and intend to run my lines down the drivers RA. Is yours the same setup or are you running extended lines off the frame?

This should work to show the pic:

Link should work now. I gotta find a better place to store photos...

I picked up my axles last night and there's a funny bolt on the top of the D44 axle on the drivers side. I'm thinkin the previous owner perhaps had an actuatued locker of some type? Can anyone identify this? OK I edited the link, damn Yahoo, this link is to my folder, there's 4 different pics...