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That really is the way to go, something this big you don't want to always be second guessing yourself if you had went cheap. Peace of mind is worth the extra price and it looks like it isn't even going to be costing you anything extra.

I didn't know those rewind shops still existed (at least not the ones open to the public). congrats on finding one.

I've been doing my own transmission flush since I bought the 98 XLT New.. Before car forums even became a thing (i had a 94 before the 98) there was Dr. Bob with explorer tips. They found their way onto "jeff singleton's maintenance page" and that page eventually made it here. I've used a...

yep, OEM fuel filter setup for ford forever. And I've hated it forever. After changing the filter multiple times over the years the last time I tried to change it (with the proper spring lock tool) one of the quick disconnects finally broke. Had a local shop do a hack job on it because...

And that rating is for a brand new bumper not one that has been rusting up in BC where the original poster is located. I wouldn't trust the rusted bumper hitch on my 98 that now lives in Chicagoland to tow anything.

Very old school tip. When the bolts on a pan are tightened, they pull (deform) the metal around the bolt holes on the pan towards the engine. So that the metal around the bolt holes isn't flush with the rest of the pan lip when you remove that pan. This deformed metal can make contact with...

I'd recommend that you get an oil pan heater. Not the dipstick kind, but the kind that are a patch with adhesive on it that sticks to the bottom of your oil pan. I had a VW Diesel car for 10 years in Northern Illinois that I drove over most of the upper midwest for work. Most people know that...

don't want to hijack this post but have you tried the plug in heaters that stick to the bottom of your oil pan? I've used these on my old explorer and set them on a timer that came on 5 hours before I wanted to start the SUV. It will heat up your oil and continue on to heat up the block and...

Been driving VW's for years Bosch makes excellent parts -anything with a motor or generator.

If the starter is turning the engine (no matter were that voltage is coming from - jumped, boosted, another battery) and the engine does not start, then the problem is not the battery or starting system.

And most of us were at least once at a point in our lives where we couldn't afford the OEM parts. I went through 5 cheap reman half shafts for a Watercooled VW with lifetime warranties, before I learned that just because they had a lifetime warranty didn't mean that they would last. After...

yep, I'm the original owner for mine as well. 1998 is during when US cars first started using DLR lights. I am sure that mine never had them, I've been on Ford Explore groups since I bought my 1994 Explorer and when I traded that in for the 98, I remember seeing people on the groups pointing out...

yep I had to just give up using my autolamp for the issues you mention

The 49-state 1998 explorers did not come with DLR. The 1998 Canadian Explorers did have them. Since I see you are from California, the 1998 California explorers might have had them do to some California Car requirement. I seem to remember that the wires were there for the DLR light on the US...

Sorry just saw this thread while looking for my old one to fix the same issue.. Did you ever fix this issue? Read the end of my thread here where I found out and discussed why that fuse is blowing after a dead battery. And why even with a fully working system, that fuse will continue to blow...

at 45F you're fine to drive it unless you are climbing mountains or driving cross country

I following because I'm just curious to see what you find. You have done everything that I would have tried up to this point. At this point I'd be second guessing myself. How did you verify that the blend door works?

yep the symptoms indicate a stuck open thermostat.

good on you man, you went way above and beyond to help the guy out. Up here in chicagoland, due to the winter salt rust under the car, I'd have to cut a hole if I was going to replace the fuel pump (If I dropped the tank, I'd probably snap/strip everything that holds the tank up). But in AZ...

x2

Hang in there, while we don't like to admit it, as some point most of us have probably done dumber **** when starting out.

is the belt slipping? When the engine is at high rpm with a slipping belt the alternator could still be turning fast enough to charge. For the three conditions you listed the engine will be at a low RPM and a slipping belt might not turn the alternator fast enough to charge.

I read somewhere a long time ago that when you change your spark plug wires to keep one of the old ones, cut it to about 2' in length from the boot end. And then use it to start all your new plugs in the future. A sparkplug wire boot is the perfect tool to grab a sparkplug and start it without...

If you go to my picture in the thread that this link takes you to, it shows the explorer with the headliner removed and you can see the bottom of those pop rivets in those valleys Drop Headliner

here is the link to my thread and there are a lot of good links in it that helped me figure it all out. Fix the A/C Myself or I'm I better off just paying a professional