Trans not shifting???

If it's not one thing, it's another.
I have a code for the DPFE, I plan on installing a new one tomorrow.
On my way home today, my truck did not want to shift at all. I was at nearly redline on the highway!
If I let off the gas and let it drop to 3k or so, SOMETIMES it would kick down to somewhat normal, but still higher RPM's than normal.

This shltbox is driving me crazy!
My question is, does the DPFE control anything with the trans shift points?

I'm keeping my fingers corossed that the dpfe will fix all my problems.

Please give me your input tomorrow, as i'm going to buy the new dpfe at Ford tomorrow.

you kinda right but other way around .... the "tr" sensor ( transmission range sensor) controls various things like the egr system for one .but if that sensor was bad the computer would tell you with a cel. i would do this ......

first of all brooklynbay is the the guru for transmissions so he may tell you different from what i say ......

your cel light is on right ? ....

you checked the code and got a cade 327 ?? (bad dpfe)
( are you sure ? blank out the computer from any "stored codes" and then run the truck again and see if you get a return code like before) if so then replace it with a new one .but if bad it would make your truck run and idle like crap tho .

have you checked the tranmission modulator line ( the one on the intake ...metal tube witha rubber vac line connected to it running back to the vac tree? ) if it's got red fluid in it ...it's shot so maybe thats why the shifts are not right ( easy to check and costs you nothing to do so ) .

Check the usual things:

Fluid level hot in park

Vacuum line for fluid

It honestly sounds like a broken band to me, but you should exhaust the easy things first.

Broken band in the trans? Pfft, if that's the case, this thing is gone!

im thinking your shift linkage came off. had that happen to me recently. onyl had first till redline then shift into second and thats it. go under and check linkage on passenger side on tranny.

If the shift linkage disconnected, he wouldn't be able to shift from park into gear, or vice versa

Adjust the kickdown cable, and bands to start. The band adjustment will tell you if the band is broken. A dried out servo piston could be leaking if the band has trouble engaging or holding. Did you replace the fluid & filter recently? The filter could be clogged or it could be low on fluid. The A4LD shifts by hydraulic pressure, and not by anything electric with the exception of overdrive on the 1988-1995 versions. The torque converter lock up is electric, but it wouldn't prevent it from shifting if it's not locking up. Your RPMs will be a little higher, but that's about it. Examine the vacuum line from the modulator as previously suggested.

Vacuum line is dry.
Fluid level is perfectr, no burn smell either.
How do I adjust the kickdown cable? How do I adjust the bands? Are the bands internal?

Check # 4, # 5, and # 19 in my list of useful threads for information on how to adjust the bands, and the kickdown cable.

I read #19, but still don't understand how to adjust the kickdown cable.

Procedure on how to adjust the kickdown cable.

The adjustment is simple. Squeeze the piece which is under the hood near the master cylinder, and pull on it until you feel the cable is tight. Go into the vehicle, and step all of the way down on the accelerator pedal. It is now adjusted.

Awesome, thanks!

BrooklynBay said:

The adjustment is simple. Squeeze the piece which is under the hood near the master cylinder, and pull on it until you feel the cable is tight. Go into the vehicle, and step all of the way down on the accelerator pedal. It is now adjusted.

Click to expand...

in the transgo kit a sheet says something about a very important kickdown cable adjustment for the a4ld? just wanting to check on this?

A follow cable from trans to adjuster it loooks the same as gm type but may be turned sideways.
B. depress tab and push cable housing into adjuster 1/2".
C. road test: you must not have a 2-1 or a 3-1 KD at 20MPH.
D. then pull the cable housing out of adjuster 1/8" at a time until there is a 2-1 or 3-1 KD ar 20 MPH
E. if kickdown is too hard to get pull cable out of adjuster another click or two.

???? i thought as i read here you pull the kickdown cable until its tight then push the acc. petal to the floor and it locks it and it is set?

any idea's on this test/ adjustment?