PCV valve, Sea-Foam and Tune-Up for 1999 Explorer 302 AWD V8 302 8 cylinder

Here's some pics to make PCV valve changes (and Sea-Foam application) on the 5.0's a little easier. As I found out, it is a dual hose set-up. The PCV tees into a front and rear hose. Removing the front hose is ESSENTIAL to removing the valve. Here's a pic of the front hose;



And here's the port once the hose is removed (under intake, viewed directly from front);



Just grab hold of the front hose and pull forward. It'll come off. The rear hose is easy. It's under the rear of the intake viewed from the drivers side. The PCV valve is easiest removed by reaching straight over the motor from the front and pulling straight up. You can then pull the assembly towards the drivers side as shown in these 2 pics;





I then turned the PCV upside down, pushed it back over and hooked the hoses back up for the Sea-Foam treatment. The PCV winds up here;



Tools used for Sea-Foam treatment. Special dispenser hose, high tech regulator apparatus and Sea-Foam;



I removed the PCV and inserted the 1/4" hose with nipple in it's place. Started the engine (already fully warmed up, very important) and then used the needle nose to regulate flow. Kept the engine from stalling 'til it got down to about a 1/4 can, released the needle nose totally and let the engine stall. I then let it sit for about 30 mins. and started up.

Why use the PCV hose and not the brake booster or similiar hose? The PCV is the only location (besides canister purge) that is designed to evenly flow to all cylinders. The brake booster is NOT designed for flow and will, at best, clean 3 or 4 cylinders. The only other way (and I've done this before) is to hook up to the canister purge circuit. Just ensure canister purge is manifold vacuum and not ported.

Looks like it's working!



Only Motorcraft for my Explorer!




Why Motorcraft and not a similiar quality brand? First off, PCV valves. They are built to a certain flow rating. This directly affects IAC counts and proper MAF values. I've done the comparison about 8-10 times. Fully warmed up vehicle at idle, new aftermarket valve. Note the IAC and RPM values. Install new Motorcraft PCV and note the values. ALWAYS different. Always. For such an inexpensive, yet very important item, why bother?

Plugs and wires. Our ignition systems are multiple strike systems. i.e., the plug fires up to 3 times each compression event. Not only that, but because they are distributorless, they also fire up to 3 times each exhaust event. That's up to 6 sparks per firing event. The spark is what wears down the electrodes. This vehicle was tuned by Ford at 50k miles (where I bought it). The single platinums were installed. The gap when I removed them was .076 avg. The double platinums went back in (recommended).



One last note on plug wires. For whatever reason, the wires I removed (also Motorcraft) had heat shields on #'s 4, 7 and 8. The new Motorcrafts had an additional shield for the #3 cyl. The wires have a list price of $217 but can be had for $100-125 wholesale.

Thank's for your article. I set you up with 2 months of Elite Explorer privledges

Great writeup
Always felt the PCV was the best place to use seafoam as it feeds all cylinders.
same thing the seafoam people told me via phone.
Congrats on your eliteness sparky.

Thanks guys.

Thanks. I've got the PCV sitting in a box, waiting for me to find where to put it! I read the descriptions, but this writeup is great! I hate pulling on things I can't see. But, I might just go back and get the Motorcraft part now.

Good stuff. Thanks for the post. I'll definitely give this a go in due course.

Thanks for the great write-up! I was never able to find the PCV valve. Now I'll return the one I have and get a motorcraft.

Can you do a write up on the spark plug and wire replacement? Also, where can you get them "wholesale"?

Thanks!!

The plugs and wires were relatively easy. Jack the front of the truck to get the wheels off the ground, pull the splash covers from the inner fenders and you're staring at the spark plugs.

If I remove the front hose, can I use the arosol Seafoam with straw extension and spray into the front exposed nipple without removing the PVC?

You would only be drawing Sea-Foam into the rear PCV inlet like that. Why not take the extra 5 minutes and get it to both inlets?

Excellent. Just did a tuneup/seafoam not to long ago. Replaced the IAC a little while ago, and just finished up on the EGR valve. Boy that was fun.

I love the smoke!

Neh

Nothing gets the neighbors out like SeaFoam........

i tried to do it, no luck, I cant get to the pcv, how do you find/get to it?

Let's see if I have this right, pull the front PCV hose off the intake so you can pull the PCV out of the valve cover, turn the pcv upside down so it is in the closed position, add a hose and tee so a line goes back to the front PVC hole and attach a hose to the middle of the tee for the seafoam. If I'm correct you're drawing in the seafoam from the front & rear of the manifold. Do you pour in the seafoam or just run the hose into the upright can and let the vacuum draw it in regulating with the pliers? Sorry if I'm making something simple sound complicated.

i still dont get it, the first picture its confusing =[

.

FexplorerV8 said:

i still dont get it, the first picture its confusing =[

Click to expand...

AGREED. I gave up months ago trying to make sense of it and it wasn't for lack of trying.

I finally found my PCV last night. I've got a '97 5.0, but it is one of the first assembled, so it has a '96 setup. This caused me a lot of confusion. Turns out that my PCV is on the PASSENGER side at the back of the intake manifold. Since I had the whole intake removed anyway, I could get around a little better back there, and followed all of the hoses. While trying to trace where one hose went, I went to tug on it, and it felt like it was just hanging there. I pulled it up to take a look, and there was a PCV stuck in the end of it. I guess that means it is time to get a new PCV and grommet. I also find that the "rattle" test isn't very good, since my valve is open in both directions since it is worn so bad, but it still passes the "rattle" test. Now I can both replace my PCV with 135k miles on it, AND Seafoam it. Looking forward to checking the performance when I'm all done. I took some pictures, so I'll post them soon if it helps some of those with '96 and '97 trucks.

rizzjc - pics

rizzjc, any pics of the 97's would help, mine is a 97 as well. I have always had trouble looking for the PCV valve and I would like to do a full clean sometime soon.

Yep, I promise I'll get them posted once I have it all back together. I'm already 4 days late with that, but that's what happens with a wife and 2 kids. I'll sneak out to the garage tonight after everyone is sleeping.