T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

jd4242 · November 2, 2015

If both vacuum sources going to both sides of the valve covers is capped and filters on both valve covers..there wont be a vacuum leak..if you blow oil after that means your pressurizing the crankcase pass the rings in the cylinders and a catch can maybe needed

[MENTION=102869]Dono[/MENTION] i swear when i pull my pvc valve off the drivers side and blow into the top its sealed..ill check tomorrow i have a spare..but i thought for turbos you need to run a catch can anyways..and very true about placement for the fresh air intake for motor.....i was thinking his was -turbo,MAF,fresh air inlet for motor and then tb..then both valve covers could get boost..

If he caps the driverside pvc off on the manifold and the oil fill hose is before maf on fresh air intake side (no vacuum would come from engine with driverside capped,only boost that makes it to crankcase)and before turbo,then yes he should be fine with just one filter on driverside

Easier to cap both and filter both on valve covers.lol

Dono · November 2, 2015

JD summed it up. Cap the two lines on the intake side. Use 2 breathers on the motor.
This will just vent any blow by, and not be any form of a vacuum leak.

I tried this, but decided against it as it was to smelly for me. I know, I'm a suck. I'm hoping you won't have the smell's I did.

Caejxr · November 2, 2015

Awesome input gents. I'll get on it this week when I get time. It makes sense I just wish I would have thought about that before I blew oil all over the side of my block and new exhaust lines...discovery learning isn't the best some times.

Caejxr · November 2, 2015

Now just to be certain since there are some intake variations. On my OHV the PCV on the drivers valve cover routes to the upper intake, the brake booster right above to the right of that and the egr control solenoid to the upper left of the pcv inlet on the intake. The only vac line on the pass. side was the oil filler to the stock intake tube.

Im venting the pass. side cover via the filler with a small crank filter. The pcv is un-hooked and intake capped (I'll get a mini filter for it.) I left the EGR lines hooked up.

jd4242 · November 2, 2015

You should be good..if you notice the filters getting soaked in oil or the dipstick getting blown out you need to do something different. .either a catch can or a reverse pvc system(explained in my last post with single filter on driverside only and vacuum pulled from oil filler),but even that might not be enough

Caejxr · November 2, 2015

jd4242 said:
You should be good..if you notice the filters getting soaked in oil or the dipstick getting blown out you need to do something different. .either a catch can or a reverse pvc system(explained in my last post with single filter on driverside only and vacuum pulled from oil filler),but even that might not be enough

I gotcha. Worst case I'll buy some vac line and rig up a line to pre turbo so it will create more than enough vac.

Dono · November 2, 2015

Lots of ways to skin a cat (no offence intended). If the crank case smell gets to you, go with plan b. I like the idea of making sure the pcv valve closes under boost, and running the line on the passenger side pre turbo (If the maf is pre turbo, it would be ultimate to have the line plumbed in between the maf and turbo).

At the end of the day, your the one doing the tuning, so if you need to adjust the a/f slightly differently under boost its not a big deal.

Caejxr · November 2, 2015

Yeah I'd probably be kinda upset right now if I had the tune done for me at this point. On the topic of A/F what are you guys seeing at ide for yours?

Dono · November 2, 2015

14.7 give or take a .1 or .2

Caejxr · November 4, 2015

I think I have an o2 sensor going out. Bank 1 sensor 1 drops out seemingly randomly . Gives me a .2 to .5 volt drop that causes leaning of the AF mix. really easy to see on the data log when both are holding steady and it drops out.

Caejxr · November 4, 2015

Allllriiiiiiight, blow off valve is installed.

Sounds good and ooh what a difference it makes on acceleration allowing the turbo to stay spooled.

Not boosting the crank case anymore. So thats good. No more oil everywhere. Thank you jd and Dono for the input it definately helped me out there.

Only some fine tuning to go now for the open loop.

Caejxr · November 6, 2015

Getting closer. A ton of time re-tuning, loading, and logging.

Idle and top end are good (at least a/f wise). I just need to focus on the mid range now. A/f Ratios as follows:

11.9-12.3 or so through the mid range.
11.3 give or take at .9 load and up under boost.
13.3-14.2 in idle..its all over but close as I can get it so far. shooting for 13.5 since it idles smoother in the mid to upper 13's.

Took it out for a drive to log some good data. It's too much fun. I haven't even mashed the pedal down yet...almost afraid I'll break something when it hits boost.

Acceleration feels effortless compared to stock...I always told myself I'd never take this project on but I'm really glad I did. Its been fun in a way and the power gain is just awesome.

Caejxr · November 30, 2015

Finally got the MAF transfer function tuned for the base fuel table. Probably took me 200 different tunes to get it for both open and closed loop. I tried it by doing the math for the difference but there was some factor coming into play that caused the changes to be either too big or too small that I personally couldnt figure outl. It was odd.

So took a lot of tune, upload,program, datalog, retune...etc. probably about 20 to 30 min each time...nearly a month of noghtly tunjng logging re tuning.

Once warm the afrs are where they need to be and the truck runs fine in closed loop...I've got an open loop only tune and a closed loop tune... now I'm moving onto cold start for the closed loop tune which has been too lean. It's at about the 75% solution now. Only requiring 35 60 and 120 sec. To be enriched in the "cold start enrichment decay 1*" table. I'm pretty confident that will take me less that 4 trys to have it where it needs to be. After that adaptive learning goes on and it should be all set....

Caejxr · December 1, 2015

7.5 months of this project and the end is so close. Granted as the weather gets colder/warmer some parts of the cold start table will probably need to be edited. The furthest ends -20, 200, 254) will need to be interpolated based on the avg change and maybe % decrease/increase in the change of the values I can actually tune..or maybe get a mathemajician to do it for me?...but once I can get the in-between values the outliers should be really close.

Dono · December 1, 2015

Congratulations!

I'm impressed with your tuning skills. You have done well.

Hows power and drive-ability?

Caejxr · December 2, 2015

It's doing well. Power feels smooth and just multiplies when the turbo spools into boost. If I drive nice I can keep it out of boost. If I drive agressive I can hit boost very quickly in every gear. On the highway at cruise the turbo stays spooled at 0hg and afrs are about 13.2 to .4 . Boost/power is there when you put the pedal down even just lightly at cruise seeing 11.3 to 10.9 at s v rich spot I've gotta work slightly. At lower speed cruise, drop a gear and mash the pedal and turbo spools between 1800 and 2500 rpm into boost up to full boost by 3 or 4k rpm depending on load. .. still need to try 4x High and 4x Low with the locker. AFRs are mostly commanding stock afrs up to about 89% load where I have it begin to command 11.3 up to 11.1 as load and rpm go up

Caejxr · December 2, 2015

Noted melted hvac lines from the reservoir courtesy of the oxy welding the shop did. Fixed the lines but still only defrost and still a vac leak. Narrowed down to after the red fuel vacuum hoses...so somewhere in the hvac plumbing. No good. :/

Dono · December 2, 2015

Your vac/boost is at 0 cruising on the highway? Out of pure curiosity, what does that do to your gas mileage?

Caejxr · December 2, 2015

Dono said:
Your vac/boost is at 0 cruising on the highway? Out of pure curiosity, what does that do to your gas mileage?

That's a really good question. I may need to do some further research/testing to figure it out... for Right now, I can say that it appears my mileage is the same or better. Before it usually took me a quarter tank to and from work driving around 70. Right now it's a bit less than a quarter tank. If I drive nice and stop screwing around squashing the skinny pedal... I can probably go top off. Do some only highway driving without stopping and go top off again to get very controlled results and a good answer...

fixed those vac lines late last night l found a hard to see spot where the line wasn't melted through but warped enough to cut off flow..now I have vents. Until I get into boost. Then I have defrost...maybe a check valve is in order?

Dono · December 3, 2015

Caejxr said:
fixed those vac lines late last night l found a hard to see spot where the line wasn't melted through but warped enough to cut off flow..now I have vents. Until I get into boost. Then I have defrost...maybe a check valve is in order?

I can't remember on the v6 ohv is there is a vacuum ball and check valve. I know on the v8's there is one. I just don't remember seeing it on the v6, although Id be surprised if there isn't one. Being at 0hg cruising on the highway creates an issue I didn't think about......heat vents, and possibly brakes for a brief moment when you touch them after driving for a while with no vacuum.

T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

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