The everything Aviator thread.

Click Fan, it could be. Becasue I had that trouble before (air in the system) I bought an Airlift II coolant fill kit, which pulls a vaccuum on the system and then sucks the coolant in while there is no air in the system. I did that multiple times, but when I had my mechanic look it over, he said he opened the crossover fill plug and it was not full. He added more coolant there and that was it. He thinks I have a cracked head, but said it'd be 2700$ to take everything apart to find out.

Since I got it back it hasn;t overheated yet. For a little over a week I'd have to add coolant every three days. It'd go from the high side of the fill line down to the low side. Last time I checked it only went down about 1/2" or so in three days. Do I have a leak? I don't know.... I could pull and hold vacuum just fine. I pressure tested it just fine. So I have no clue what's wrong. (Or if anything is even wrong. Maybe all the overheating came from trapped air). I'm just driving it daily and watching the coolant level now...

Thanks for the link by the way!

What Motor???

What motor was available in the Aviator?
2v 4.6
4V 4.6
or 3V 5.4???

Please help.

4 valve 4.6L

The 2003-2005 Aviator came with the 4 valve 4.6L V8. It is basically the same long block as what came in the 2003-2004 Mach 1 with an automatic transmission.

I finally figured out my long-standing overheating problem and though I'm going to feel like a moron sharing with you guys, I figured I post it here in case anyone else ends up with the same issue.
I was topping off the coolant every once in a while and I noticed one day that the coolant I was using wasn't premixed. Based on that, I thought back through my issues and figured out that when I bought my first few gallons of coolant they gave me a 50/50 premix. Then they ran out of stock and gave me an equivalent. I just assumed it was premixed like what they gave me the first time. Yes, I should never assume. So, I bought a coolant tester to see how diluted my mix is and it was way too undiluted. So, I've been emptying coolant and thinning it back out with distilled water and now I'm close to a 50/50 mix.
So based on that I think my story was this:
I was originally overheating becasue of a crack in the radiator.
I replaced the thermostat as a first guess but that of course, didn't help.
I pressure checked and found the radiator was bad and put the new radiator in.
When refilling everything I had my 50/50 mixup which caused it to continue overheating.
With what Ive learned now; here's what I would tell myself:
If it overheats, do the pressure check first.
Changing the thermostat is a pain, so don't do it unless you really need to. And if you do, take the entire thermostat housing off by going in with a long socket from the wheel-well. Then, when you get it out, check the thermostat on the stove to see if it is in fact broken.
It's probably best to fill the coolant with the Airlift II tool, but make sure to top it off after at the bleed valve on the cooling bridge.
And ALWAYS read the @$% container when they give you something at the auto store and say it's the same. Just in case!

Big learning curve for me - a non-mechanic. Hope maybe this helps someone else.

Next issue: the dreaded turn signal blink of death.
I've randomly had the turn signals act up where they'll blink twice and stop. Then they'll work for a day, then back to blinking once or twice and stopping. I've seen this question on the internet a LOT, but no definitive solution.
Well, I was having that issue AND my brights would stick on (which other motorists just love!) I tried the experts on justanswer, who told me it was the multifunction switch. So, I bought a new replacement multifunction switch and changed it out.
**Side note. If you're going to work on your own Aviator - BUY the shop manuals. For about 60$ you should be able to get a paper copy or even better, a CD copy. Money well spent!

Anyway, the multifunction switch change did fix my brights, but did NOT fix the turn signal issue. The root cause of the random couple blink turn signal is the relay. The relay is only about 8$a Oreilly and I think was a Novita (or something like that).
So, now that you know it's the relay you just have to pop it out and switch and everything is good right?! NO. The same ****** engineer who designed the thermostat to be mounted in an unreachable place must have also come up with the relay location: on the BACK of the fuse panel under the dash by the steering wheel. You can;t reach it without uninstalling the entire fuse panel and removing it. Well, almost.
I took pics of the job and will post them in a follow up with directions.

2000StreetRod said:

The 2003-2005 Aviator came with the 4 valve 4.6L V8. It is basically the same long block as what came in the 2003-2004 Mach 1 with an automatic transmission.

Click to expand...

Street rod, do you think it's better to find an Aviator with the 4v 4.6 or a regular Explorer with the 4.6?

for what purpose?

jleas524 said:

Street rod, do you think it's better to find an Aviator with the 4v 4.6 or a regular Explorer with the 4.6?

Click to expand...

If you just need a replacement short block for an Explorer you should find another Explorer block. The Explorer 2 valve aluminum block was manufactured at the Romeo plant and the Aviator 4 valve aluminum block was manufactured at the Windsor plant. There are some subtle differences in the blocks but significant differences in the pistons. The shallow dish pistons in the Aviator result in a 10:1 compression ratio with the larger volume 4 valve heads. Premium fuel is required. The Explorer pistons have a deeper dish resulting in a reasonable compression ratio with the smaller volume 2 valve heads. The photo below shows the dish difference.

If you used the Aviator pistons with the 2 valve heads you'd have to buy race fuel.

What is it that you want to accomplish? If you're looking for more performance for an Explorer please start a new thread. This thread is about Aviators.

Here's a quick write-up of how to change the Flasher relay on a 2004 Avi:

First, move the pedals all the way forward and the seat all the way back. There is no comfortable way to work in here! Also, move the steering wheel up. Then, remove the negative cable from the vehicle's battery.

Then, remove the two hex screws on the bottom of the trim panel under the steering wheel. (I think they were 7 or 8mm. Probably 7mm.) Once those are out, carefully pop the panel free. (There are two clips on the top sides of the panel to pop out.) Once the panel is out, you should have the view seen in the pictures that follow.

Remove the single hex screw that holds the top right side of the of the fuse box in place. This can be seen in the following picture and is up in there. YOu have to move the wiring loom out of the way to get your socket up in there. It's tight. I think this was another 7mm, by the way.



Next remove the two screws that hold the fuse box in from the bottom. You'll need a socket extension to get up there, but they are pretty easy compared to the last screw you removed. (See picture with exploded view for location.)



Now, have a look at the fuse panel diagram below. On the left side of the picture, which is the bottom of the fuse panel, there is a big plastic "cap" with a screw in the middle. You need to remove this screw and then move the plastic cap with the wire loom. Firmly but gently pull straight down while wiggling side to side to remove this.



This is where we talk strategy. I could not find a way to get the fuse box to drop down out of it's position. You can go further with this and remove it if you want. However, there is no need to if you are just replacing a relay. The flasher relay is the relay on the top right hand side of the fuse box. (see pic above) What I would recommend as the easiest way to accomplish the task at hand is to just tilt the fuse panel down toward the front of the car so that you can gain limited access from the front side of it. You won't be able to see this, only feel it.

Take a silver sharpie and put a dot on the front side of the relay before you pull it out. Then, use a small flat-head screwdriver or a similar tool to wedge in under the relay and pop it out of the panel. Now take it out and look at it. The dot you put on the front side will show you how to orient the new relay when you put it in. (To be clear here, the blades of the relay have to line up with the fuse panel, so you need to make sure you have the relay in the right orientation before you push it in to the panel.

Once you figure out the orientation, just reach the new fuse up there and push it securely back in to the panel. (No, there isn't much room at all and this whole process is much more difficult than it should be. Blame Ford for putting relays that you are going to have to change at some point is such a horrible location.)

That's it! Now just work your way backwards through the directions to get everything back together again.

Now, time for my next question:
I want to have the engine checked out to see if it's in good condition for the long haul. From what I've read I'll want to have the compression tested and then have them check the COP's. Is that right? Is that all I should have checked? Thanks!

Well, compression was good and coils all checked out, so on to the minor stuff on the list!

First, I have the issue where neither climate controlled seat works. The level dial lights up, but the heat cool switch doesn't. In reading the service manual the only thing i can find is that maybe the climate controlled seat modules lost their programming. I took it to the dealer so they could hook the computer up to it and read the modules, and sure enough, they returned null, so they reprogrammed and everything works. 120$ or so and no parts - works for me!

Next is adding a remote start and getting a new stereo head unit.
Has anyone put a new stereo in? What did you choose? Did you have to use a special harness and a hookup for the steering wheel controls?
Thanks!

I need to know the name of this part so I can start replacing. I noticed on my 2005 Lincoln aviator that just above the tire about 6 inches inside there is this boot that is all busted up on driver and passenger side that needs replacing because it is causing a screeching noise when you turn the car. Its not the tie rods. Its about a foot above the tie rods but I just don't know the name of that particular part to replace. Is it a bearing? Please help if you can identify this piece. Thanks.

Turn signal lights on side view mirrors

I am a new owner of a 2005 Aviator. The turn signal lights on both side view mirrors have dirt and moisture in them. I cannot find the way to take them out to clean them. Help? Thanks

Rodriguezhu said:

I need to know the name of this part so I can start replacing. I noticed on my 2005 Lincoln aviator that just above the tire about 6 inches inside there is this boot that is all busted up on driver and passenger side that needs replacing because it is causing a screeching noise when you turn the car. Its not the tie rods. Its about a foot above the tie rods but I just don't know the name of that particular part to replace. Is it a bearing? Please help if you can identify this piece. Thanks.

Click to expand...

That is the upper ball joint. It looks like you can replace the joint itself (press fit); http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2471904&cc=1440615&jnid=434&jpid=16
Or replace the upper control arm as an assembly;
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3443997&cc=1440615&jnid=435&jpid=6

beby48 said:

I am a new owner of a 2005 Aviator. The turn signal lights on both side view mirrors have dirt and moisture in them. I cannot find the way to take them out to clean them. Help? Thanks

Click to expand...

Looking at mine, I believe you need to remove the body colored cover & unscrew those lenses from the back side. I haven't tried this as of yet, but to me, that appears to be the way in.
http://stores.revolutionparts.com/p...l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/outside-mirrors-scat

FreeIndeed, thanks for the excellent tutorial on replacing the flasher relay...what a PITA!

I'm glad you were able to have your seat warmer module reprogrammed. I had no idea they could "forget" their program, very interesting.
We have an '06 Expedition that has the passenger seat warmer switch acting up...I had assumed I needed to buy a new assembly, but maybe it just needs to be reprogrammed? I will definitely look into that.

I'm no help on an alternate stereo, or remote start. I haven't been down that road yet.

Intake Manifold Runner Control

Hey guys. I love this site! It has helped so much with my Bronco ans Sportrac.

I bought a 2003 4.6L 4V V8 AWD Aviator Yesterday but they said the IMRC was bad. Can anyone show me what it looks like or a part number? Or what other models are compatible?
I have found 2 for sale but they are from 1996 and 1998 Lincoln Continentals.
Thanks in advance!

These are the two I found.
This is what the seller said about the black one (1998):
"This slightly different than the 1995-1997's. This controller mounts near the throttle body therefor one cable is shorter than the 1995-1997's and one cable is longer than the 1995-1997's. You must verify where you controller is mounted. If your controller is mount on top of the engine than you probably need to buy the 1995-1997. "


1996 one:

in the lower manifold

In looking at my 2004 Aviator Shop Manual it appears that the IMRC motor is mounted in the lower intake manifold. Do you know if the motor has failed or is the mechanism just stuck. Do you have a DTC indicating the IMRC has failed? I tried to find the motor in the Ford parts database but it only lists the complete lower intake manifold. I think the motor is a stepper type.

Imrc

The PO said his mechanic told him he needed a new intake manifold runner control actuator. I should pick it up this weekend. I will pull the codes and inspect the vac lines and connecting rods if I can find them. Any idea if they are easily visible. I have no experience with the 4.6L.

accessible?

The only thing shown on my drawings is the electrical connector. I believe the lower intake manifold must be removed to replace the actuator and you can't remove the lower without first removing the upper intake manifold that the throttle body bolts to. I think I read somewhere that Ford doesn't sell just the motor. However, it may be possible to clean the lower intake manifold to free up the runner control.

I finally found a photo of it on the internet.

The stepper motor is located at the rear of the lower intake manifold. It may be accessible without removing the lower manifold.

This poor photo shows the linkage.

An awesome menber on Lincolnforums.com named Slick Fan posted some very helpful info and these two pics..
"I haven't had to deal with this part yet with my Aviator, but doing an internet search, I believe this is what you need...part # 2C5Z9J559AA. Looking at mine, it looks like it's on the rear of the intake manifold, mounted low. And of course, it doesn't look like it will be much fun to change. LOL "