Fuel Filter Fun!!!

Fuel filter is stuck. Apparently the previous owner made one fit. 98 4.0 OHV.

I had the lean codes (p0171/p0174) when the weather got cold in the fall and after checking all the vacuum lines, it actually turned out to be the intake gaskets which I just changed and codes stopped except when well below zero. I tried to change the fuel filter months ago at the beginning but couldn't get the tank end off. Looked like the filter was on backwards based on the shape of it compared to my replacement. Old one had no visible markings (flow arrow). I just got the PCV hose and grommet to complete the fix but still thought I'd change the fuel filter since I never had. Way overdue. Tried today and made the sad sad discovery. I have a variety of quick disconnect tools that I've accumulated over the years and had no trouble with the engine side. Came off just like they always do or should but the tank side wouldn't budge. The filter would spin and the O-ring felt like it was making good contact but couldn't get the three "spring" tabs to release. Then I realized the problem. The tool would not go in far enough as it would contact what appears to be a second ring that is not locked in. I finally cut the filter off leaving a stub of tubing so I could see better and there is a second ring just inside the opening blocking the action of the tool on the spring clips that are apparently hanging on to another ring. I tried all kinds of Macguyver-esque manipulations but to no avail. I tried to pull it straight out but had no luck there either. I did notice some marks on this fitting like someone had put a wrench to it before but the fitting is working and not leaking.

So now I'm stuck! Fortunately I have a few vehicles to drive so not a big deal right now but just thought I'd vent a bit and maybe someone out there has a trick they could share. My other options are cutting the flex part back to the flared metal tube (only about 5-6 inches back) and clamping the crap out of some new flexible line (I know it has to take up to 70-80psi). Or dropping the tank and replacing the line for like 250 bucks.

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

I have heard people have success with sacrificing the cap of a Sharpie to slide into the connectors.

If it is anything like the 91-94 style fuel line connectors they are no fun. The metal clip fingers get bent easily. Eventually by brute force and much twisting I can get them off but have to replace the "fingers" clip. New ones are sold cheaply at auto stores and you just insert them into the fitting. If I was smart I would probably change to a different fitting for ease of future replacement. If you do end up switching to flexible fuel tubing slid over the metal tube, remember to flare the tube end and use high pressure fuel rated hose. I have had many auto store employees that did not know the difference between "fuel vapor" and "fuel safe" tubing.

Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Thanks for the reply! I actually tried the sharpie cap too as it is a bit thinner than any of my quick disconnect tools just not sturdy enough to push the clips.

I'll probably just yank the clips out like you said. I have seen the clips in he Help section. They just slide in and I think they are 5/16. Fortunately if I cut back to the metal line, it is flared where it accepts the flexible portion so if I double clamp there and on the filter with some injector clamps I should be okay. I just don't like to mess with stuff like that. Too important and too flammable. I don't think there would be any problem if the PO didn't use the wrong filter. I'm looking forward to dissecting this thing to see exactly what the end of this stuck filter looks like.

Thanks again! I've been watching this forum for years. Used to have an 83 2WD 2liter Carbed! 4 speed XLT Ranger a while back. Wish I kept it.

I dropped the tank on my 96 last week to change the fuel filter. The only place I ever got stuck was when I encountered the "quick" disconnects on the fuel lines. Prior to this all the vehicles I've worked on had external clamps, so it took craning my neck and using a flashlight to look and see how these god-forsaken things were hanging on. Once I saw the "teeth" inside the bells, I got a hold of some rigid plastic tubing and some scissors and made a tool on the spot(they call me "Survivor man"). The tool got the slightly smaller one of immediately, but I had to make a second tool from rolled sheet metal to get the second one off.

I used a sharpie cap as well to do mine, I had to use one for each side as it pretty much ruined it. It took some time to do and was frustrating but I am glad I am done with it! I didn't de pressurize the fuel system before so i had a good amount of fuel come out. Just make sure to wear safety glasses. My check fuel cap light recently came on but I do not know if that is related to changing the fuel filter.

It helps to spray WD-40 on those quick-connect fittings,
and letting them soak for a few minutes before trying to
separate.

You can safely use SAE 30R9 rated hose to splice the
fuel line, along with FI clamps. Flaring the lines also
helps to keep them secure. (For submerged fuel lines
use 30R10 or better)