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Door locks unlock but no lock!!!

89LSC4ME

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Joined
July 31, 2004
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City, State
Stoney Creek, Ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT
Just started today, I can unlock the doors with the keyless entry pad and the key fob. But I can't lock it, I hit the lock button and nothing. Even the lock button on the door don't work. Any ideas???
 



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Try it with the drivers door open. Sometimes the wires in the loom going to the door break.
 






I did try it with the door open and nothing! So you say sometimes a wire will break, I will try and wiggle the loom and see if that works. Any other possibilities?
 






Same thing happened to my '93 xlt. It ended up being a bad 12v relay.
 






Where is or was that relay located, if you remember.
 






My relays were part of an Aftermarket alarm system add on. You'll have to press the lock/unlock button and listen for the relay click to try and find it.
 












i've got the same damn problem (for over 1 year now). The "theft" light illuminates when i depress 7&9 on the keypad, AND when i press the door lock switch, but nothing else. HOWever, my tailgate switch locks all doors just fine, go figure...

(from a previous post):

1996 Explorer XLT Conversion - The autolock system just stopped working. When you put your Ex into gear and let off the brake, the locks will drop all'round. Mine don't anymore. I just noticed it Wednesday, ONE day before my torque converter BLEW UP! Any relation? I can't manually lock them from the switches on the front doors OR exterior keypad/keyfob. HOWEVER, they WILL lock from the switch on the left-rear quarterpanel and they UNlock with no problem using any of the above switches & keypads. I looked up some info in the HAYNES repair manual and noticed that both the lock system and transmission utilize the GEM (General Electric Module) behind/beside the radio. Anybody got a clue b4 i go to FORD to PAY to get this checked out??? Also, I had installed about one year ago an autostart module, but that's working just fine. I've gotta believe it's related to my unfortunate & expensive tranny issues, but the shop couldn't figure it out either. Please help!

Since that post in 10/04, i've started thinking that my issues are "auto-start/keyless entry" related. They tapped into the factory wiring to install the system. I have no clue what they'd (the starter installer) charge me to do a diagnostic and see if their work is at fault. With what DeRocha says, i would guess it's a somewhat common problem, but i don't know - no one here has found a fix for it.
 






I don't have an auto starter, just what I believe to be a factory key fob and anti theft. I have not tried to lock from the hatch button I will try it tomorrow (wife has truck). I did try to wiggle the wires going into the door at the same time as I pressed the lock button to see if a wire may be faulty, nothing happened. Of course that still don't mean a wire is not broke. I will try and do some research later this evening. I'll post anything I find.
 






http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2452...ad.php?t=245258

I hope it is ok to post things from other sites, sorry if not.
But I found this info on a related site and looks like it could be the answer to the door lock issue. I have not had a chance to try it yet as the truck is gone for the night. But here it is for anyone that should like to try.
 






I didn't look very far into it, but that link seems tranny-related...was it somewhere within?
 






Sorry this is the article I meant, for some reason the link did not work.


The 97 Explorer/Mountaineer locking system has three separate relays. A "drivers door unlock" relay (does just what it says it does) is activated (pulled to ground) by the first click of the fob or the first turn of the unlock motion with outside key. The second click or second turn (within a second or so) pulls a second "all unlock" relay to ground. Pushing unlock on the rear hatch switch uses this relay. A third "all lock" relay locks all doors when it is pulled to ground.

These three relays live in a combined module (along with the trailer lights relay) behind the left rear interior trim panel. You can see them by taking off the access cover to the jack. The relay cluster mounts upward, just under the upper trim panel lip. Off a couple of inches toward the front of the truck, mounted at about a 45 degree angle, is the anti theft module (Ford calls this by a funky name - the RAP - Remote Antitheft Personality module). The key fob works through this module in getting signals to all the standard chassis/body electrics.

The "all lock" function specifically works my taking a pink wire with yellow stripe (P/Y) on the all lock relay to ground. There are two P/Y wires on the same connecter pin to this relay. One wire goes only to the rear hatch switch. This is what is working when you push that switch. This wire is being grounded by the hatch switch, the all lock relay is thus energized, and all doors then lock.

The second P/Y wire goes via a harness forward along the left side of the truck, winding in this harness down across the left rear wheel well. Somewhere near the front of the rear door opening, there is a splice (Splice S337) that brings three separate wires together to this connection. All of these wires have the same P/Y coding. One wire goes to the drivers door switch, one to the front passenger switch, and one doubles back and goes to the RAP. Grounding any one of these three wires will lock all doors, just like grounding the other P/Y wire at the all lock relay using the rear hatch switch does.

Your problem is somewhere between where this single P/Y wire (the one that does not go to the rear hatch switch) attaches to the all lock relay in the rear quarter trim panel area, and where it makes the three-way splice. I bet when you look at the relay cluster in your rear quarter panel, and see the single connector pin on the relays module that has two P/Y wires, one of those wires has been pulled off - perhaps when someone was grabbing for the jack, etc.

I have a 97 Mountaineer. The best thing I ever did was buy the Electrical And Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual off ebay for about $20. They are listed there all the time. Note that the Explorer is almost identical, but has a couple of high end unit variances. I suggest you get one of these if possible.

I also have the paper factory service manuals. They can be had on ebay for $40-50. The troubleshooting manual has only the wiring diagrams, no troubleshooting text. You can also get a one year subsciption at www.alldata.com to view all these manuals online for about $20. You can print any page. I prefer books when trying to trouble shoot, but everything in the manual is in the alldata system.

By the way, the Troubleshooting manual is labeled "Preliminary". There was never a final version!

Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. These electrical gremlins can wear you down.
 






SWEET!....now, if only it weren't the wifey's birthday - i'd be freezing my A$$ off trying to diagnose the problem utilizing this info and hopefully responding with a good report.

Although you did not write the article, i've got a question...if it were just a disconnected wire at or before these relays, how do i get the antitheft system to activate then? B/c the system DOES activate, some sort of signal must get back to the RAP....UNLESS...it's like a loop and the signal from the switch(es) goes back to the module on wire 1 and then back to the actuators on wire 2. (sorry, rambling here...)

Hmmmmmm...brain hurts from trying to diagnose my issues from my desk....must....go....outside....

I may just find enough time to get into this tonight....now if only my tailgate would open (a WHOLE 'nother problem altogether)
 






I'm not really sure but my anti theft also goes on. I pressume it is on a separate relay or system running parallel to the lock function, yet using the same power supply!! I am by no stretch of the imagination an electrical guy I am just guessing here. I won't get to mine untill the weekend, when I do I will let you know how I make out. Good luck
 






I took a quick look at the relay setup and there are a TON of wires back there. Hopefully i'll spend some time on it this weekend as well.
 






Well, i managed to spend some time LOOKING for the p/y wires this weekend to no avail. I spent the majority of my time overhaulin' the tailgate mechanism and when i was finished, i started to trace the p/y wire from the relays at the jack compartment up to the drivers door sill. There have got to be 200 wires in the bundles that run along the driver side! It was f'n cold so i didn't get around to testing for continuity, but at least i've got some direction.

I'm considering taking apart the d/s door and tapping into the p/y wire at the switch, and tapping into the p/y wire at the relay, to see where i get from there. I'll do the same with the pass. side, just to verify that it's a wiring issue, and not a bad relay. If this indeed fixes my lock issue, i'll likely just run new wires from the switches all the way back. Taking apart those tightly wound bundles of wire seems like a disaster in the making.
 






I hear you!! I had to change my front wheel bearing (hub) last night so when I was done I started to look into the lock issue!!! Woa!! With some luck I'll get at it this weekend.
 






Well I tried some stuff today nothing fancy but still! I removed the rear drivers side panel to expose the relays. Found which one was which from the owners manual. They both had the same item # so I switched them and still the same thing, tried to jump with a wire many different ways nothing. I'm going out on a limb thinking it is not a relay issue. Guess tomorrow I take off the drivers door and look there then check wires I guess.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If anyone reading these posts can offer some info or suggestions please jump in, I hate having to walk around open the hatch to lock all the doors!!!!!It sucks.
 






89LSC4ME said:
If anyone reading these posts can offer some info or suggestions please jump in, I hate having to walk around open the hatch to lock all the doors!!!!!It sucks.

There's always just reaching around the seats like i do :D
 



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