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'97 high-mount brake light "rebuild"

'97 high-mount brake light "rebuild" FINALLY DONE!

EDIT: Adding the details to the first post now that the project is finished.

OK, I finally got tired of trying to figure out this stupid 21" neon high-mount brake light problem, and in the process ended up with two lamp assemblies. So, after searching for the best fix, I finally decided to gut one of the assemblies, and build by own LED array to put inside it. Here is what I did ....

  • After removing the assembly from the truck, and the lamp from the assembly, I baked the lamp in the oven at about 200-250 for 15-20 minutes, or just long enough to be able to "peal" off the lens. After doing that, removing the neon lamp, and cleaning it up, here is what I had.
DSCN3595.jpg

  • Here is the assembly after being baked, and cleaned up, and the neon lamp removed, with some measurements shown:
explorer_third_brake_lamp.jpg

  • Next, I had to find some LEDs. I finally found some that would work and purchased them from Super Bright LEDs:
  • I ended up settling on the 8 candella RED (RL5-R8030), but after seeing it all done, I'd probably go with the 12 candella if I did it again (RL5-R12008), as they are brighter, and have a sharper viewing angle. You can always tone down the brightness if it is too bright, and although I could brighten mine up a bit, it would mean less protection for the LEDs.
  • Next I found a piece of breadboard to mount the LEDs to. You can probably find something at Radio Shack, but you might have to make a two piece array, depending on the size you get, and how long you actually want your array to be. Notice in the image above that the assembly is about 3/4" tall, but since the back of the housing is curved, the array needs to be thinner than that so that it can fit comfortably down inside, so the lens does not hit the LEDs.
  • I cut the breadboard so that it would fit inside the housing. When doing this, measure carefully so that the breadboard will fit down inside the housing, otherwise the LEDs will touch the lens and you'll have trouble putting it back together. Learn from me - I had to do a lot of fine tuning to get everything assembled.
  • After determining how many LEDs I wanted, and how far apart they should be, I placed the leads through the breadboard and glued them in place. Be sure they are pushed down all the way, and are flat, or your LEDs won't line up perfectly, which is easy to see with these small viewing angle LEDs.
  • Next, I soldered the LEDs and resistors to make the arrays. I have 3 arrays of 5 LEDs each. You can use this link to help determine the resistor size needed for each array:
  • Here is the LED array in progress. This was the dry run, before cutting the breadboard and glueing the LEDs.
DSCN3938.jpg

  • After cutting, glueing, soldering, and wiring up the array, I was ready for the fine tuning, and fitting into the housing. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of that, but you get the idea.
  • I searched high and low for just the right glue to use, but in the end I just used hot glue on the array, and clear RTV to glue the array into the housing, seal any extra holes (I brought both wires out a single hole), and glue the lens back on. I also used electrical tape to hold stuff together while it was drying. I did it in stages and let everything fully dry before I put the lens back on.
  • Here is a BAD picture of the array finished, and everything dry fit.
DSCN4183.jpg

  • And finally, with everything glued and dry, I took the plug off the old ballast and used that on the new LED array. Make sure you feed the wires through the hole in the tailgate before placing the plug on the wires (I had to go back and cut mine off again :rolleyes: )
  • After reinstalling on my truck, here is what it looks like.
DSCN4356.jpg


I hope this helps. Let me know if there are any questions.
 



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FINALLY some1 did the right thing! i will be on the look out for the LED's i need to fix this 2 so keep us updated!
great job
 






Well, feel free to let send me all of the LED links you can find. Nobody sells just an LED strip, and anything else will probably be too big, so I've got the problem of getting exact dimensions for all units I'm finding. Note that this, I think, is the EASIEST solution, since you then can glue it back together, and don't have to worry about plugging holes, etc. But it all depends on finding that perfect LED array (although I will consider building one, if I have to).
 






For anyone still following this, I found this, and it looks like it will work, and is SUPER bright:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
Now I'm trying to decide if I want to go cheap, and just put a single 12" bar in there. It looks like the solid bar might show up as LEDs, where the other one might have enough dispersion to not show up (but actually I kinda like seeing the LEDs). And I could get 2 of the LB2's and patch more together to get the full bar. On the other hand, $8 is a pretty cheap fix if it works, so I might just go that route and be done with it. I can't build that bar for $8 myself.
 






Anything come of this project? My light is out, and inspection is due in a few days.
 






Unfotunately I've gotten as far as taking it apart. Other stuff always gets in the way, and I found a third brake light at Harbor Freight for $5, that sticks to the inside of the rear window. However, I *think* I might have found an LED bar that will fit inside the unit. I just haven't ordered it yet. Had trouble getting exact dimensions from the company. Here is some of what I've been looking at:
http://superbrightleds.com/mini_tubes.htm
They didn't recommend the LB1/LB2 that I posted earlier for vehicle applications like this. I might have to buy a couple things to see what works best. The tubes probably won't fit inside the module, which is my ideal solution.
If you take it apart to debug, I'd love to get any data that you have. i.e. Can you determine if it is the ballast or the neon lamp? I never could. I've got a ballast, and another lamp, and it still didn't work. You are welcome to try them if you want me to ship them. If they work you can buy them off me.
 






Got it solved!

I'll do a detailed write-up soon, but here's the tease:

13422IMG_0603.jpg


I used five 3 candela 10mm red LEDs, each with 820ohm 1/2w resistors. Total cost was $20, took about 4 hours to remove, bake the housing, and replace.

I wish I had doubled the number of LEDs in there, and they were a little brighter, but I cleaned out the store, and need to pass inspection tomorrow. I debated using 620 ohm resistors, but was worried about frying the leds at 14.5 volts. Looking back on it, the better solution would have been about ten, 10 candela LEDs. The 10mm "large" size seemed to work out well, they were easy to secure using hot glue.

BTW, my neon tube was cracked in half. Not sure if the baking/prying was the cause of the crack, or if that was the failure mechanism.
 






You suck! ;-) I'm still looking at it, but with my Harbor Freight $5 third brake light, it hasn't been at the top of my list. I have gone back and looked at some of the things I've found, and none looked too good after a second and third look. I was thinking the same as you, discrete LEDs. I want to try to get them for FREE thought. Since I is an engineer, I should be able to hit up a supplier for some "samples", but have been looking for the best "auto-grade" LED to use. Can you post where you found those "candela" LEDs. Haven't heard of them.
 






Candela is a measure of brightness, not a brand. These were private label from my local electronics house.
 






Ahh, the way you said it, it sounded like a specific LED. Most of the ones I've been looking at are spec'd at "Luminous Intensity" (mcd). I found one that is 12,000 mcd, and 8 degree viewing angle. Since it does not spread much that should be bright, and still make a good LED brake light (i.e. show up as individual LEDs).
 






Ahhh, OK, 1000 millicandela = 1 candela, so the LEDs you are using are 3000 mcd. I've found one that is 12 candela. You think that'll be too bright (based on how your 3 candella LED shines)? Do you know the viewing angle on the LED you got? I'd like to know, because when I do that I'd like to see the LEDs, not just one continuous light. The 12 candela LED is only 8 degree viewing angle, which might actually blind the drivers behind me (but I can always adjust that with a resistor). They also have 8000 mcd and 5000 mcd which are 30 degree and 15 degree viewing angle, respectively.

I *was* thinking 20-30 LEDs, but based on your photo, I think that you might be right, 10 would be pretty decent, maybe as high as 15. Here is where I'm finding these LEDs:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/leds.htm
Don't know anything about these guys, and haven't ordered anything yet, but if we can fine tune what we think might work best, I think I'll start ordering some samples.
 






1 candela = 1000 mcd. (Metric system)

My LED's have a 30 degree angle, and I wish it was greater. Also, you need red LEDs, since the red plastic will render any other color, even "white" invisible.

The 8000 mcd with a 30deg angle sounds perfect.
 






Hmmm, you think?! Maybe I'll go ahead and order some of those. I was just thinking lower viewing angle would give a cooler look, with enough LEDs. Then again, 8 degrees is probably more for a flashlight or something! You used 5, so I think I might shoot for 15 to get a nice long LED string in there.
 






Got my LEDs in today. Now I just have to find time to play with them and see what I come up with. :)
 






Very nice Aaron. You Show Off


V8BoatBuilder said:
Got it solved!

I'll do a detailed write-up soon, but here's the tease:

13422IMG_0603.jpg


I used five 3 candela 10mm red LEDs, each with 820ohm 1/2w resistors. Total cost was $20, took about 4 hours to remove, bake the housing, and replace.

I wish I had doubled the number of LEDs in there, and they were a little brighter, but I cleaned out the store, and need to pass inspection tomorrow. I debated using 620 ohm resistors, but was worried about frying the leds at 14.5 volts. Looking back on it, the better solution would have been about ten, 10 candela LEDs. The 10mm "large" size seemed to work out well, they were easy to secure using hot glue.

BTW, my neon tube was cracked in half. Not sure if the baking/prying was the cause of the crack, or if that was the failure mechanism.
 






Finally started working on it.

OK, all sorts of excuses for being so slow. Work, been sick, had to go to China, etc. But I finally got started. Thought I'd build an array of 5 LEDs to test out the brightness, and mounting method. Here are some poor pictures giving a hint of what is to come when I'm finished.

First picture gives an idea if how they look behind the lens (but they actually look better than the picture). Second picture gives an idea of how bright they are with no flash. Third picture shows how they are mounted on a circuit board. I'll have to make the soldering permanent, glue them in, and cut down the circuit board to fit inside the housing, but that shouldn't take too long. I tried it with 5 LEDs, but plan to use 15. Should cover 2/3 to 3/4 of the assembly, so I think it will look pretty good.
 

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Stupid Question. How do I get the light out of the truck and What is the heating to 250 deg for???

Thanks
Tim
 






There are about 5 rivets on the bottom side of the black trim piece. You open the glass to get to those. You have to drill those out. Then there are, I think, three nuts on the back of the light assembly. You get to those by opening the gate, and pealing back the trim, and removing the rubber plugs. Then there is a, what would you call it ... at snap nut?? on each side which you remove on the inside of the tailgate. After doing that, and disconnecting the 2 wires for the lamp, and the washer hose, you remove the whole assembly. The lamp assembly unclips from the black trim piece.

You then have to bake the assembly to soften the glue, and CAREFULLY take it apart to expose the neon bulb.

-Joe
 






[foreward: I only know enough about electronics to be dangerous. I'm still learning about LEDs at the moment for another project]

Here's another thought (if it works): To save yourself a lot of wiring of the resistors to run everything in parallel, what if you wired up six or seven of them in series? (Assuming the lowering voltage is ~2V each) Then, if you wanted to, you could have two banks of seven wired in parallel, and no resistors in sight (and less heat from them, of course)

Unless LEDs in series act like light bulbs (i.e. the first one is brightest and they get dimmer on down the line).... In which case, ignore my ignorance.

What do you think?

-Joe
 



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That's what I'm doing. I will have 15 LEDs, as 3 sets of 5 in series with a, I think, 220 ohm resistor. That pretty much gives maximum brightness, while protecting the LEDs. So I can adjust those 3 resistors if it turns out to be too bright. I'm now thinking that the ultimate design would be about 30 5 candella LEDs. I think it would look just like a factory job. Mine are going to be spread out a bit, as you can see in the photo, but I think it will look OK. Also have to glue them so they are straight, as their viewing angle isn't huge, so it shows very easily if they are not all perfectly straight.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get around to cutting the PCB down so I can mount and glue all of the LEDs.
 






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