Brake Line Tube Rusted Through

The metal brake tube that runs between the rear wheels on my Explorer has rusted through and cracked. I called up Autozone and they don't have them pre-bent. And I'm assuming I can't just bend it to the shape I need (i.e a bend in the middle to get around the rear diff.) without crimping the metal. Where can I get the piece pre-bent to the shape I need? Will Ford sell me one directly? It's for a '97 AWD.

I've done it on a Ranger. It's not hard. The brake line benders are like 10 dollars -- but if you get a brake line...make sure you have the right fittings and the right flare on the end.

-Drew

The only place you might be able to get a pre-bent line is a dealer. You should be able to bend one yourself, if you take your time and use the old one as a template.

JUNKYARD

Easy Easy... just pick up a lenght of Straight brake line and bend it yourself.. You can use your hands or get a hand bender like ExplorerDMB mentioned. These work great and can make much tighter bends than you can with just your hands... The fittings on my '93 were 3/16" double flared fittings available at every auto parts store... As such you buy a 20" (or whatever you need) long piece already flared and with fittings attached. I would get a few lengths of each size (they are <$5 each) so you don't need to run back to the store if you screw one up (you can return any unused line so no $$ wasted).... Just remember to keep tht fitting(s) next to the end otherwise when you bend the tube you won't be able to slide the fitting over the bend..

DeRocha said:

Just remember to keep tht fitting(s) next to the end otherwise when you bend the tube you won't be able to slide the fitting over the bend..

Click to expand...

Best advice, I screwed that up my first time too...

Also, make sure you get the DOUBLE-flaring tool and know how to use it. Single flares are not recommended for brakes.

-Joe

gijoecam said:

Also, make sure you get the DOUBLE-flaring tool and know how to use it. Single flares are not recommended for brakes.

-Joe

Click to expand...

You will only need the double flaring tool if your cutting any brake line.. If using the pre-flared lines you won't need to get the double flaring tool...

BTW the double flare tool can be a little tricky to use... I took me a dozen or so tries before I was able to make a decent double flare (when redoing the front hardlines coming off the ABS).. The 1st step was easy, the 2nd step to create the double flare was off-center 90% of the time...

it's definately worth the extra couple of bucks to get ones that are pre-flaired.

You can probably get it from www.fastpartsnetwork.com email Torrie and tell him what you need.

Josh said:

JUNKYARD

Click to expand...

Not recommended in this situation. I understand getting a used axle, driveshaft, blah blah - but not brake lines, brake pads, or any stuff. Junk like that should stay junk and will already have a good amount of rust from sitting out in the fields. Just my opinion though.

-Drew

ExplorerDMB said:

Not recommended in this situation. I understand getting a used axle, driveshaft, blah blah - but not brake lines, brake pads, or any stuff. Junk like that should stay junk and will already have a good amount of rust from sitting out in the fields. Just my opinion though.

-Drew

Click to expand...

Well not true. I spend a lot of time at one particular yard and have seen/bought parts that were in like new or new condition. I understand the firey death thing when it comes to stuiff like brakes, but in those cases, you just need to be picky about what you get. If you find a brakeline that has signs of rust, then yes dont buy it. I have also bought pads and calipers that looked like they were about a month old and have been on my truck for over a year with no problems. I would never put something I thought was dangerous to me on my truck.

Is there a tutorial anywhere on the forum with instructions on bleeding the brakes? I read on the Autozone site I would need some special tool because of the 4 wheel anti-lock system.

The usual method is to start at the tire the longest distance away from the master cylinder and work your way back. So, RR, LR, RF, LF. I believe the special tool they are refering to is in the event you have to bleed the ABS module. The only time you would do that is if you ran the system dry. When the line broke did you pump out all the fluid? Empty the master cylinder? I would bleed it normal first and see how everything feels. If you Bleed it a few times and the brakes are still soft, then maybe there is some air in there. The brakes on my Jetta were soft until the rear calipers adjusted out.

Look in my signature under My Useful Threads -- at the bottom is a thread about bleeding

-Drew

This is not something I would try for the first time. I have taken up shade tree mechanics over the last couple of years and have made proud progress. but there are just some things that take practice to be good at; and bending/flaring brake lines is one of those "artful" things. I recently had all the brake lines on a town car made and installed for under $200. the line you are talking about is easily accessible. I should think you can have it done for under $60. hope I don't offend some of you experienced guys; but somethings are just better done by someone with experience, IMHO.

Mikeri said:

This is not something I would try for the first time. I have taken up shade tree mechanics over the last couple of years and have made proud progress. but there are just some things that take practice to be good at; and bending/flaring brake lines is one of those "artful" things. I recently had all the brake lines on a town car made and installed for under $200. the line you are talking about is easily accessible. I should think you can have it done for under $60. hope I don't offend some of you experienced guys; but somethings are just better done by someone with experience, IMHO.

Click to expand...

Your point is taken, but if this is not something you'd try for the 1st time then when would be the time for you to try this? How will you learn these skills if you never attempt the repair? I had never worked on brake lines before, but other members convinced me it was a easy and Anyone with mimimal skills could do it.. With new found confidence I was able to replace the line for <$10 and now have the skills to bend brake lines without the fear I don't know how to do the job..

Brake lines

When I did it the first time I screwed up and last the connectors in the middle of the piece when I bent it. Now when I have done the brake line bending on a few others I take a moment to tape the connectors to the ends of the line. It helps a whole lot. I usually take a couple pieces of wire. First bend one by hand to go close to how the old one was routed. Then I bend a second wire with the tube bender to get about exactly what I want. Then I bend the real brake line.

Purchased my cheapy bender at AutoZone years ago for about $5 and it still works GREAT!!

r0dr0c said:

When I did it the first time I screwed up and last the connectors in the middle of the piece when I bent it. Now when I have done the brake line bending on a few others I take a moment to tape the connectors to the ends of the line. It helps a whole lot. I usually take a couple pieces of wire. First bend one by hand to go close to how the old one was routed. Then I bend a second wire with the tube bender to get about exactly what I want. Then I bend the real brake line.

Purchased my cheapy bender at AutoZone years ago for about $5 and it still works GREAT!!

Click to expand...

That is a great Idea about taping the fittings to the ends It certainly helps keep them from moving all over the place otherwise.. Most tube benders event the $5 variety work great, but it takes time and some imagination/visualization on how to use them to bend up some complex multi angle bends.