97 OHV into a 95 Explorer

The thread was getting no views because the title was misleading
The engine swap is complete, there are quite a few things needed when putting a later model 4.0L into a earlier model truck...

this thread covers those things:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151705

Allright here it is, the swap is complete as of today.

1995 Explorer 4 Eddie Bauer 130K miles. 4x4, 4.0L OHV, automatic.
Truck was overheated as run until the engine seized (hydrolocked), cause was a failed tensioner pulley, the pulley took out the radiator..

I replaced the engine with a running take out unit from a local junk yard. The donor was a 97 Explorer 4.0L with 100K miles (approx), compression test yielded 125 psi in all cylinders. Engine was run before pulled, no issues.

This write up will cover all the things encountered when using the later model OHV into the 95 truck (93TM 4.0L block vs 95TM block).
I ran into a few un-expected issues during this conversion, there are a few changes that must be addressed in order to run this long block with the 95 computer and truck.

The truck got a brand new radiator, tensioner pulley, and belt before it was in my hands.

At the beggining, notice the leaves in the airbox and 130K worth of dirt:


I started by removing the 95 engine (obviously)
I left the transfer case, transmission, drivelines, exhaust, and trans cooler lines in place during this swap.
this saved me alot of work.
When I drained the oil I found more coolant then oil. A tear down of the 95 block is coming, we shall see how far the damage goes..

Bare bay:

Engine out:

95 block stripped of intake, accessories:


The 97 Engine was stripped down to the lower intake and fuel rail. All accessories and brackets were removed. the exhaust manifolds and fuel rail were left on the block.

Things to note:
the 97 flywheel uses an 8 bolt pattern (same as SOHC), the 95 uses a 6
The 97 camshaft position sensor uses a different wiring plug from the 95 sensor, the 95 sensor will not fit the 97 block.
the drivers side engine mount plate on the 97 block uses a reversed bolt pattern from the 95, the 95 plate mounts up no issues.
the 97 uses a different crankshaft position sensor
the 97 has different coolant tempature sensors
The EGR is the same
the 97 upper intake maifold is different from the 95
the long block is the same otherwise, externally

97 Engine

97 stripped:

97 cleaned and In place:

97 bolted in stabbed to trans:

By removing the mounting plates on the side of ths 97 block I was able to aling it to the transmission and stab the block, tighten all the bellhousing bolts. Then the assembly was lifted 2" and the engine mount plates were installed, then dropped onto the engine mounts. INteresting note is the 95 drivers side engine mount plate was required as the 97 mounting holes are reversed.

I retained the 95 upper intake plenum, TB, IAC, coil pack, EGR sensor and vacuum switch, vacuum plumbing, alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, and starter.

First wiring harness installed AFTER 97 camshaft position sensor wiring plug was soldered to the 95 computer harness (fun times, soldering in the truck):


First problem I ran into was the flywheel. My 97 engine from the junk yard did not come with a flywheel/spacer and bolts. I had to buy these parts from Ford, $98
Here you can see the 97 block vs the 95 flywheel:

new flywheel/spacer/bolts installed:


Next was the camshaft position sensor, here you can see th e95 vs the 97 sensor. As you can see the 97 sensor is deeper into the block, so it MUST be used with the 97 engine, requiring me to swap out the wiring plug on the harness:

(Earlier versions of the OHV (91-94) do NOT have this sensor, it can be deleted and the block off plate installed on the 95 TM block if you are putting this engine into an earlier model)

the 95 cooling fan was showing its age, you can see the typical nylon cracking, The 97 fan/clutch was used as it had no cracks:


the 97 block got new Autolite double platinum spark plugs:

A new Stant 195 thermostat was also installed in the block.
the 95 coolant sensors and crankshaft position sensor were also required to swap onto the 97 block.

97 block in with 95 upper intake, EGR, wiring, fuel lines plumbed, etc:

the 95 alternator, power steering pump, ac bracket, tensioner pulley and belt installed:

All plumbed and wired, TB and IAC cleaned, MAS cleaned. Fan/ clutch, fan shroud, intake, new air filter, radiator and heater plumbed, AC compressor plumbed, etc (almost ready to run)



Leftovers :



I then dropped the trans pan and replaced the filter.

The truck required 5 quarts of cheapo 10W-30, FL-1A Motocraft filter, power steering fluid, 5 quarts of Mercon, 2 gallons of antifreeze/ 2 gallons water (approx), 2 cans of Gunk foamy engine brite, silicon, teflon tape, die-electric grease, thermostat, new air filter, trans filter and gasket (yes Glacier Microfelt filter ), etc:


I also cleaned the MAS wires while I was in there and added a bottle of red line fuel system treatment.

This morning I fired it up, after a VERY long process of replacing the engine.
I ran into quite a few unforseen issues (including weather, one bad donor engine, a broken exhaust bolt, strepp throat!, swapping cam shaft sensors twice AFTER the engine was stabbed, etc) during this swap and it took longer then expected.
I would like to thank Keystone Light and Colorado weather for allowing me to finally get this project done after a long month of work. thanks to Brett and Dave for helping me work through problems over the phone, Matt at Courtesy Ford for getting parts and shooting the sh*% with me for an hour about my BII and conversion, and Jeff at Colorado Auto Salvage for a great deal on a perfect 97 donor engine.

This write up can hopefully save the next person from running into the same issues unexpectedly....

It runs perfect.
At first it POURED out white smoke. I monitored coolant temp, oil pressure, fluid levels, leaks, etc when I ran it briefly for the first time.
I figured the white smoke was coolant in the exhaust from the previous engine......It was!!! (was worried about a cracked head!)
after 10-15 minutes of getting it up to temp it cleared, SLOWLY.

I drove it a bit, checked fluids, leaks, etc eventually it was perfect, no codes, runs smooth, shifts perfect, no leaks all fluids are fine.
Bled the power steering, cleaned the engine bay thuroughly (the block was cleaned before being installed) installed hood, new battery hold down (was missing) and all is well



Breathed new life into this explorer for well under $1000 (engine/parts) with a full tune up, new trans fluid, all new filters and fluids, cooling, etc

Parts (approx)
97 engine, $400
Flywheel & parts: $100
Fluids: $80
Filters/gaskets: $50
Misc: $50

I bought some new tools for this project as well, many of mine were worn out from pulling engines!

The AC needs to be charged of course, I also recommend a trans backflush and fluid chage in 1500 miles or so. This 95 is not equipped with an external trans cooler, only the Radiator cooler for the trans. I will install a factory aux trans cooler if the owner agrees as well (what do you know! I already have the parts needed!)

I washed and waxed the truck today, also detailed the interior. The owner is a friend of mine and since I am proud of my work I would not have it leave my shop any other way.

More pictures of the completed project tomorrow...

The truck needs shocks, alignment (torsion bar sag), and ball joints. Other then that it is in perfect shape.
In 1000 miles I will see it again for a oil change and to check on things. I plan to switch to synthetic oil and change the transfer case and rear diff fluid at that time.

410Fortune said:

(Earlier versions of the OHV (91-94) do NOT have this sensor, it can be deleted and the block off plate installed on the 95 TM block if you are putting this engine into an earlier model)

Click to expand...

Nice write up!

Let me get some verification: 91-94's DO NOT have a camshaft position sensor.

nice write up, even though i have no use for it as i got the 5.0, i did learn something.

Rhett, that is correct. The older 4.0L OHV does not have the CAM position sensor, there is just a block off plate where the ditributor/sensor would go.
AS I understand it the CAM position sensor is only used during start up, not while the engine is running.

Dont confuse this with the crank position sensor, they all have one of those.

Well then I have no idea what's chirping on mine. I felt around behind the engine and did see some electrical connectors there, but I need a mirror to really see behind there.

Chirping from behind the engine block? 5 speed?

There is not much back there except for the wiring plugs for the 02 sensors and the trans dipstick (auto) Also the vent tube for the auto trans routes up there. The two top bellhousing bolts are responsible for holding all this stuff in place, with metal brackets.

hmm no it's an auto. I thought it was coming from the front dress, but I couldn't tell for sure. I don't want to jack your great write-up thread here though Jamie..I'll post about this in the bird chirp thread...

Great write up, education is priceless in this sort of situation.

I'm sure this will be benificial to someone here on the board as I also leaned a few things by your swap.





Jeff - :navajo:

I learn a few things every single time I tackle a project like this. Especially when it comes to the changes Ford made over the years and why. They seem to learn pretty quickly what the trouble areas are and how to fix them (like starter wire routing and melting on the exhaust) They also are always finding ways to use less wire and materials (cost cutting) they re-locate things to make the wire runs shorter, use shorter spark plug wires, less connector plugs, etc..

I learned alot about how to get the engine in and out on my own without the usual muscle I would borrow to help stab it to the trans....I lined up things so well this time I was able to pull the engine to the trans with one hand and thread two of the bellhousing bolts with my other hand. this SAVED me alot of time actually...

each time it gets easier...and my tool collection gets larger! hahaha

I am inspired now I have been wrenching on my boat, my Bronco and my Explorer in the last week.

How about a New Tool List? Nice work! Was it weird messing with a V6??

Weird? hell now! I had 3 4.0L's in my BII, have worked on countless first gens and rangers, etc....I have done several 4.0L conversions, I am very familiar with them.
The 5.0L is more new to me then they are, but the 5.0L is also so much easier and fun to work on/with! hahaha

new tools are:
new 18mm,17mm, & 15mm 6 point sockets (worn out, pulled many exhausts with those)
New 1/2" drive wobbly (worn out)
New 1/2" drive to 3/8" adapter (broken)
Ford fan clutch wrench set (always borrowed/cheated before)

Then I also had about $300 worth of stuff in my arms at harbor freight, but I forced myself to put it down. You see the closeest HF was 30 miles on the other side of town, well they just opened one 3 miles from my house!
Yes heaven is closer these days....

Do you have regular 1/2x3/8 adapters? I quite replacing my chrome piece about twenty years ago. I know have two impact adapters, I finally broke my first one recently. Good work, I wish that you were closer to me. Regards,

mine are craftsman chrome pieces yes. Thanks for the advice, so far I have only broken one and that one lasted me about 8 years! I usually stop and try a different approach just before something is about to twist and break

i already broke my 15mm, i only had it for 2 months

I broke a Craftsman cotter pin puller the other day. But that's because I was using it as a prybar. The end of it snapped clean off. Good case to use those safety glasses.

OKay I finally heard from the owner (he was out of town, I delivered the truck to his GF) it turns out the CE light was coming on before this engine swap, so that is good news. Now we can troubleshoot the CEL codes and get that taken care of.

He says the truck has more power now and runs better now with the new 97 engine then it did before! To me this is a huge job well done, now I can help him get the rest of his truck up to par. Fix the CEL, get it aligned, install some shocks, and flush the trans fluid in a few thousand miles.

I plan to see the truck in a week or so after he has put 1000 miles on the new engine, will pull the codes at this time.

Maybe I missed it, but did you keep the 95 computer/harness? It looks like you did.

I believe that if you try to run the higher-compression OHV (98-01) with an old computer (97 or older), you'll have problems. Isn't that true? Of course on your swap here, you didn't have that problem. I'm not sure on the years on that, but I think 98-01 OHV's were 10:1 compression, 97 and older were 9:1. ??? Comments? Are my years accurate?

If that's true then that is an important thing for people to remember when doing a late-model OHV into an older OHV-equipped truck. Of course, if one swapped the computer and sensor dress with the donor, it wouldn't be a problem.

yes, the 95 computer was retained, the 97 computer has different transmission controls, so good luck with that without changing the trans as well.

95+ blocks have the higher compression I believe. I did hear something about the 97 having the newer "fast burn" heads but as far as the computer is concerned I dont think this is an issue, especially up here in Colorado where compression and octane dont mean nearly as much to you sea level dudes.

I know of a few people who are running 97 & 98 OHV engines in place of thier 91-94 OHV and never heard of a problem, of course it sure would have been nice if they told me about the crank bolt pattern and the cam pos sensor changes! hahaha

As far as I could tell the 97 and 95 blocks were identical in every way.
I believe the 4.0L blocks started with the 91TM, then changes to the heads in 93TM and again in 95TM, not sure if these "fast burn" heads on the 97 are real or not.
Time will tell!

I have a 2000 OHV in my truck. Its been in for over a year and a half and no problems. I just moved the OBD-I sensors over to the new block and dropped it in. If you are going from a truck that does not have the low oil sensor then you will need to use the applicable oil pan on the new motor. My truck did not use the cam poss sensor so I used the blank from the old block along with the drive gear. If you forget that, no lube

What as the fly wheel spacer for? I did not mess with the flywheel at all on mine.

Rhett said:

Nice write up!

Let me get some verification: 91-94's DO NOT have a camshaft position sensor.

Click to expand...

Okay, Let's clear up the questions on this camshaft position sensor. 91-93 DO NOT have a camshaft position sensor. 94 + do have a camshaft position sensor. 94 being a 1 year only senario of EEC IV w/ a camshaft position sensor. 95+ are EEC V.

Brett


CORRECTION: Technically, 91-93 49 states trucks do not have a camshaft position sensor. Begininning in 93, Califorinia vehicles had camshaft position sensor and egr. In 94, 49 states trucks had EGR and camshaft position sensor.