410Fortune 1988 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer 4x4

Moab: Yes!, remove your t case and have a look at the output shaft in the back of the trans, about 4" in where it begins to taper see if you have teeth marks from your t case input shaft. removing the t case in my BII is about a 2 hour job because things are so tight without a body lift and because the trans mount and floor shifter must come out to get access to the 5 bolts

Also if the t case does not go up against the tailhousing flush by hand (without the bolts) then you may have a problem... my AA adapter is the 7" version just FYI not the 9", I am not sure what the difference is. The guys who rebuilt my 4r70w last Friday showed me the wear and tear internally, not total kablooey so to speak but definatley not good, broken shims, washers, increased wear on drums, etc

CDW, my buddy Brett has been rebuilding his own A4LD's now for a couple of years, I have watched him collect the tools and learn the process, it now cost him about $5-600 to do a complete build just for parts/kit but they are coming out great! I would love to follow in his shoes, but time did not afford that luxury this summer.

Fingers crossed I am off to get two cases of Mercon, I really hope she holds together this time!
500 miles, then drain the pan & converter, 500 more miles then repeat and replace filter...you know the usual $200 in Mercon/filter routine LOL

All I know is she went together perfect this time, even though the V8 is a tight fit, I can put this puzzle together pretty well now, there are 3-4 bolts that really put up a fight, the two top bellhousing bolts, the inner bolt on teh pass side header flange, and the dipstick to engine bolt...wow there is no room for hands on those! instead I use some tape on the bolt head to hold it in the socket, then its just trial and error with a flashlight until its inserted and threaded...

Update:

Still working on getting this truck running
After the transmission rebuild I was still only getting "limp mode"
ONly code is P0705 which means PRND21 Circuit failure, 2 or more switches active at the same time
Adjust the DTRS is what they say to do, well adjusting does not work.

Transmission shifts from 1-2 when first started, then stays in 2nd gear always, never shifts to 3rd, no engine braking.

After checking my custom wiring 100% (pinout every wire from trans to PCM, even inside the transmission with no pan replaced shift solenoids, etc) and finding I am 100% correct all wires are in perfect shape and in the correct positions, I was at wits end and about to pull my trans again...........then on a whim I removed the DTRS from the side of the transmission and kept it in the cab with me while driving. If the DTRS is pointed at Neautral my truck will drive 100% through all gears........ something is fishy here.

Does this with new DTRS and a spare/back up computer so its not a sensor or computer.

I suspect my Mustang shift linkage is the cause, still trying to figure out why because both cars use the same 4r70w internally, meaning the shift lever moves the same amount from P-R-N-D, etc whether its an explorer column shift or a Mustang floor shift....

This is a really tricky one...and very frustrating

lkay starting from scratch again, looking at the transmission wiring (AGAIN)
Why:
P0705 code present (last trans laster 2 years only with this code, increased EPC pressure = NOT GOOD)

Digital TR circuit failure

Digital TR circuits, indicating an invalid pattern in TR_D. Condition caused by a short to ground or an open in TR4, TR3A, TR2 and or TR1 circuits. This DTC cannot be set by an incorrectly adjusted digital TR sensor.

Increase in EPC pressure (harsh shifts). Defaults to (D) or D for all gear positions. In (D) position trans, stuck in D or manual 2.

WIRING OR DIGITAL TR SENSOR

I have this code with two different engine computers and two different DTR (range sensors) so it HAS TO BE THE WIRING.

I will build a complete stand alone transmission wiring harness, no longer integrated into the trucks/computer harness just for testing, because with my OHM and multi meter all my wiring checks out 100%, so somwhere I am picking up the wrong voltage (grounded out) or the wrong power wire to the DTR sensor....the only wire the DTR shares with anything else is circuit 359, Grey/red which is the voltage signal return to the computer

PCM PIN 91 is (grey/red) circuit 359:
voltage signal return to computer from DPFE, coolant temp, camshaft pos, TPS, fuel tank pressure sensor, MAS, DTR, and trans temp sensor

This should be cool, although I would rather be driving, havent really driven the BII in 6 months!!! she needs bodywork not this crap

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Since I finished my 5.0L conversion in 2005 this is the first time the truck has NO CODES and the transmission is fixed

I ran 4 wires directly from the DTRS, TR1, TR2, TR3a, and TR4 directly to their pins at the computer

This fixed it!!

So somwhere in my wiring harness I built is a cold solder or a short in one of these 4 wires.
I will be leaving the "band aid" harness in place until I can test the truck for a few days and make sure that dammed P0705 code does not come back! that code cost me a transmission...........

Also if you search for P0705 online you will not find much about possible causes also you will not find out that it could KILL YOUR TRANSMISSION
This code or any trans code that increases line pressure can kill your trans if you continue to drive......my problem is I was able to get all 4 gears because my old shift linkage had too much play in it.....so I drove it anyway.

Now she is 100% Need an alignment tomorrow, finish fixing my steering shaft and BAM! I am on the trail again!!!

Excellent, well done. The DTRS sensor is missing from my box of new parts, I'm about to start on mine.

I have several! LOL I even pulled a broken one apart yesterday to get a better idea of the internals...... I have a Mustang, two 96 explorer's and two 97-01 explorer's.........pictures of my fiasco are coming

there are 8 pin versions and 12 pin versions
8 pin was up to 96 in the Ex, up to 97 in the Mustang, 12 pin is 97+

what a PITA that little sucker is.... geesh at least for me! It figures wiring is what I do best, this time I came up short LOL I guess 86 out of 87 wires is pretty good though...they were all extended 4', so thats 174 solder joints right there...

I may have to "borrow" one of those DTRS's from you, haha.

All along I have suspected a bad DTRS in mine, triggering PO708 from time to time. However, your AA output shaft horror story has me thinking that the PO708 has another root cause. Perhaps it is A)Output Shaft too long or B)Pin 91 Circuit 359 wiring that is bad, perhaps the fuel tank pressure sensor (which I don't have)...

pin 91 is reference voltage from all kinds of stuff, your P0708 is range sensor circuit voltage too high.. I suspect one of the TR1, TR2, TR3a, or TR4 pins, these 4 wires are what tell the PCM what gear your shifter is in, so ensure the linkage is adjusted 100%, the DTRS is adjusted in N perfectly, then check the wiring...
I had the same P0705 code with two difference PCM's I was lucky to find my F77F-blc computer here in town for $40 with two phone calls!!

Update, BII is amazing, drives SO NICE now, the shifting is awesome
V8 sounds so *****in! Been driving it alot lately and wheeling it a little. No issues at all


and then BAM! 28 miles from home, 100 degrees outside, quits running in the middle of traffic.
I pulled into left turn lane and called my finace/wife (2 weeks!) It cooled down a bit and I was able to get her running enough to get off the road (stutter)

The in tank fuel pump stopped working
AGAIN!

this is the 3rd Napa brand fuel pump I have had in my tank.
I installed this pump in 2005/6 when I finished my V8 conversion
I had to fill the truck up (23 gallons) to get her home.
The BII will run with a full tank of gas and only the high pressure (rail mounted) pump running. The boost pump is required on hills and on highways, with the dual pump system the high pressure can get you home if the tank is full.

Instead of trying to drop my tank with 23 gallons of gas or siphon-ing it all out, I decided it was time to cut the floor:

PICTURES COMING

I replaced just the pump unit with a $40 Carter pump and strainer kit
Works like a champ again! So easy to get to now!!

Finally getting down to the details on this truck, not major drivetrain issues.
The engine and trans are a dream now, T case works like clockwork, both lockers are perfect, aligned and runs like a bat out of he**

Time to do bodywork/customize the body:
remove all glass / soft windows
no doors
fix rust

winch/sliders/ cage all planned for this summer/fall as funds allow

I can't wait to see what you come up with!

oh man I have been planning the cage for YEARS, I am back to wanting to keep the BII top, just get rid of the heavy glass and tailgate... make it so I can put my glass back in for the winter

soft windows
2 piece tailgate
half doors and no door mode
sliders part of the cage, engine and rear shock hoop also incorporated
no more sheetmetal!
fenders/bedsides/hood/roof OKAY, everything else goes

should be complete sometime in 09 unless I win the lotto or sell organs

I've been trying to think of a way to go topless as well....without actually chopping the top.

Did you know that the early-early BII's were actually designed to have the rear windows removable? They hinged from the top and clamped down on the bottom and then were stored behind the rear seat.

So I think it can be done with some fabbing. Without doors, rear windows, and hatch you have a very open cab and go on a serious diet. Hmmmm.

MoabB2 said:

I've been trying to think of a way to go topless as well....without actually chopping the top.

Did you know that the early-early BII's were actually designed to have the rear windows removable? They hinged from the top and clamped down on the bottom and then were stored behind the rear seat.

So I think it can be done with some fabbing. Without doors, rear windows, and hatch you have a very open cab and go on a serious diet. Hmmmm.

Click to expand...

Wonder what it would take to make a set of removable hinges and clamps to hold the windows in. I've been thinking of pulling my windows and making canvas/poly windows that snap in for the summer. I've got the picture saved someplace for the removable windows.

MoabB2 said:

http://broncoiipopoutsidewindow.homestead.com/index.html

Click to expand...

That's the one.

I have had thosesame pics and links on my computer for a long time now

I am going to make soft windows that roll up and use studs to attach with wing nuts, so the surround material will likely be a stiff plastic, If at all possible I want them to keep the BII contour at the top

I plan a two piece tailgate, ranger style that folds up and a top glass piece from the BII that folds down, lock together, top remove-able
Half doors and tube doors likely, I would love to use some EB fiberglass door inserts but I dont want to run soft half doors in the winter, I love CO and I love my BII in the snow... so its gotta stay hard top as much as possible.

also these:

410Fortune said:

I plan a two piece tailgate, ranger style that folds up and a top glass piece from the BII that folds down, lock together, top remove-able

Click to expand...

Like this??

I love CO and I love my BII in the snow... so its gotta stay hard top as much as possible.

Click to expand...

Same here. it gets to -40° so it needs to keep heat. So I guess you opted not to chop the top Jamie? Good Choice.

Dayum who did that???? I love it, exactly what I was thinking except quick release top portion

been talking about it for years LOL looks like I am not the first (too humble to think I would be anyways, its a natural fit)

Fuel pump pictures:

Sorry fuzzy, best guess to cut location:


Looking from underneath, not much clearance above my tank pressure sensor, but there is enough:


small hole cut to see how close I was:


hole cut, pump removed, look how full the tank is!! would have been a bear to drop: I filed and painted the edges of the stock sheetmetal to prevent rust


pump, strainer and sender assembly:


custom access panel, blue one side, bed liner the other:




Made a seal using rubber hose and silicoln:


Done and done:

410Fortune said:

no more sheetmetal!
fenders/bedsides/hood/roof OKAY, everything else goes

Click to expand...

so that means you are taking off the 3 doors? I can't think of any other sheetmetal on it.

I like your plan. Can't wait to see what you come up with. Any other changes in the suspension withe the shock hoops? I still think you should push the rear axle back and "comp cut" your rear wheelwells.

You gutting the interior for the cage? I haven't looked back for a second for how my interior turned out. There's only a few things I still need to do and one thing I would have done different.