Delta Current Control Electric Fan Controller Install

I have had a Flex A Lite VSC fan controller (http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/vsc.html ) installed on ’99 SOHC since June of ‘06 (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161482&highlight=vsc ). It has performed ok. Nonetheless, I wanted a superior fan controller that will provide more consistent cooling and be reliable.

My prior concern about not having manual control of the fan has proved to be unsubstantiated. I have not once used manual control with my current controller and don’t anticipate its use in the future.

Consequently I decided to resolve the issue by ordering a fan controller from Delta Current Control (http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm ). Since my Flex A Lite Black Magic Xtreme 180 fan (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140251&highlight=electric+fan ) does not exceed 35 amp draw ( it draws only 18 amps ), I chose their FK35 controller. The warranty is a 30 days return for any reason and 90 days for parts and labor

This controller has a very positive review by well respected member, Gimp ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143701 ). Also, several of my friends are using this controller on various applications.

Prior to ordering, I e-mailed Brian Baskin, owner of Delta Current Control, several times to discuss my application and my options. He was easy to deal with; concise and prompt replies. Sorry to say his replies and his shipping weren’t; amazingly, it took 26 days for the goodies to arrive at my door, yes, 26 days; absolutely unacceptable to me. However, after repeated e mailing about the shipping, he did overnight ship the kit at his cost.

Due to their dreadfully slow shipping, and the fact that my VSC controller finally crapped out, I had to purchase another fan controller to get me up and running; I got an inexpensive controller from Jegs ( https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...lgy/l fYckk6ErXA3ax8ReHA==&ddkey=OrderItemAdd ) to hold me over. Its installation can be seen at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180534&highlight=fan+controller .

In addition to the controller, I also ordered their intelligent indicator light ( that changes from yellowish green to amber to red depending on current draw ) as well as their adjustable controller ( for setting the fan’s turn on temperature ).

The FK35 kit cost $109.00, the indicator light ( L-101 ) $9.95 and the remote temperature control ( TADJ22 ) $14.95; with shipping it was $144.85 to my door.

The most difficult part of the installation was finding a suitable location to mount the 3 3/8 x 4 ½” controller. I mounted mine to the tubing on the antilock brake Hydraulic Control Assembly as shown in the photo.

The quality of this kit is first rate. Everything one needs to install is included. The wires are high quality and already fitted with all necessary connections.

Before beginning the installation I disconnected the negative battery cable and removed the Jeg’s controller assembly.

Then, using the supplied wiring, I attached the end of the red wire with the ring connector to the output terminal of the controller using the supplied star washer and brass 6-32 hex nut and the other end of the wire to the wire from the positive fan terminal.

After that, I placed the end of the other red wire with the ring connector on the input terminal of the controller and secured it with another supplied star washer and nut and then attached the other end of the fusible link which was in turn secured to the positive battery terminal.

Next I attached the end of the black wire with the ring connector to the GND terminal of the controller and this other end of the wire was attached to the wire from negative fan terminal. Then the end of the remaining black wire with the ring connector was attached to the GND terminal of the controller and both wires were secured with a star washer and nut. The other end of this wire was then attached to the negative battery terminal.

The next step was to attach the temperature probe to the radiator ( by inserting into the fins on the motor side of the radiator ) and plug the temperature sensor wire connector into pins 1 and 2 on the controller.

In light of the fact that I wanted continued cooling ( for several minutes ) after the engine was turned off, I connected the yellow ignition input wire of the harness to the unit and to an always hot 12 V source. Nevertheless, if one desires an immediate fan turn off, connect the yellow ignition input wire from the controller to an ignition switched 12 V source.

The blue AC input wire from the controller was connected to the positive wire of the AC clutch. This turns the fan on ( 50% level ) when the truck starts.

This technologically advanced controller even has a provision for using underdrive pulleys. I have not seen this feature on other controllers. Accordingly, since UDPs (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151951&highlight=underdrive and http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153779&highlight=underdrive ) are installed on my truck, an included jumper could be installed (on pins 13 and 14 ) to provide 10% minimum current to the fan whenever the ignition is switched on ( 100% with both ignition and AC switched on ) ; however, since I have had no cooling issues, I opted not to use this feature, but its good to know I have the option if the need ever arises. I may experiment with this at a future date.

All wires were secured and enclosed in spiral wrap and the battery ground was reconnected.

I used my Auto X Ray OBDII scanner ( http://www.autoxray.com/ ) to precisely monitor coolant temperature in order to set the turn on temperature with the optional internally regulated remote temperature controller ( TADJ22 ). I set it to turn on at 198 F. Even though one can mount this adjuster in the dash, I decided to mount it under the hood ( not like I will be using this after setting the temperatures ) as shown in the picture. For +/- 22 F of control, I connected the black wire to pin 5, the green wire to pin 7 and the red wire to pin 9 with the handy connector provided with the kit. I am not happy with this controller and therefore decided to use the simple jumpers to adjust the turn on temperature. Note: the pins and jumpers are very small; care must be taken by those with large hands when installing them.
The indicator light ( L-101 ) was mounted in a 5/16 inch hole drilled in the radio bezel of my truck in clear view of the driver and wired by running the three wire bundle through the firewall and hooking up the black wire to the controller output terminal and the blue wire to ground and the yellow wire to a fused 12 V ignition switched source.
The installation only took about 45 minutes at an unhurried pace.

The Delta Current Control controller performed flawlessly during a one hour “in town” as well as on a 140 mile I75 ( to Ft Myers to have supper with a friend and to visit the Bass Pro store [ http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.CFPage?appID=94&storeID=30&cmid=featStoreNAME_FTMYERS ]) road test. Follow up reports on the durability and function of this controller will be provided.

If ordering from this firm, please be forewarned about the shipping issues and lack of response to e mail. In spite of that, I wholeheartedly recommend this controller for anyone with an electric cooling fan. I have used several controllers and this one is by far the best.

Excellent detailed review Al. Post a picture of where you mounted it if you would. Do you have other items in front of your battery, I wanted my added features hidden as much as possible? I installed my DCC fan controller and front strobe controller in front of my battery.

BTW, my fan was a little slow to come as well, but I wasn't in a hurry so I didn't notice as much.
Everyone should also know that the tiny terminal studs in the unit are extremely fragile. They are so small that the torque of a hand driver can easily twist them off. Thus barely tweak them by hand very gently. I installed my ground wire last and did twist that stud off at the halfway point. I removed the inner nut and installed the wire gently with that.
Those jumper pins/connectors are just like PC jumpers, very tiny and the pins are fragile.
I originally had the blue wire connected to my compressor. That compressor wire was not easy to find. If anyone had not noticed, the AC compressor runs intermittantly in all positions except vent. I don't want my fan to run at all u nless necessary, and as efficient as the radiator is, I unplugged the blue AC wire.
My thermostat seems to be opening earlier than the 197 rating as my temps hover right at 190 degrees. My fan setting of 194 is rarely turning on the fan, I like it this way. Regards,

CDW6212R said:

Excellent detailed review Al. Post a picture of where you mounted it if you would. ,

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Mine is mounted as shown in the picture.

That's a good serviceable location. Take a razor blade and trim the tops of those zip tie ends, they can scratch easily like they are. Regards,

CDW6212R said:

That's a good serviceable location. Take a razor blade and trim the tops of those zip tie ends, they can scratch easily like they are. Regards,

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These pics were taken prior to cleaning up the wiring and enclosing in split loom.

Mine also, I have so many pictures that it takes a while to find one and downsize it.

Nice controller !


Another very good consideration is Spal PWM . It has built in indicator lights for low, high and Ac modes, which fan speed will vary. Adjustment can be done with the built in buttons. It can tap into your current temp sender or or theirs, for the most accurate coolant temp readings. It is perfect for underdrive pulley apps also with its variable fan speed technology.With the an extra relay it will control 2 fans.
READ SPECS

I may try that for my V8 later.

I removed the installed indicator light because I didn’t like the way I ran the wires and the light and wiring was accidentally thrown away ( don’t ask – here’s your [my] sign ).

I immediately ordered a new light from Delta Current Controls and it’s been over a week and no product.

Let me know if you find the indicator light useful. I have had my Scan gauge monitoring the water temperature constantly for the time being. I want to trust parts, but I would prefer some kind of warning if the fan failed, and the temps rose too high.

CDW6212R said:

Let me know if you find the indicator light useful. I have had my Scan gauge monitoring the water temperature constantly for the time being. I want to trust parts, but I would prefer some kind of warning if the fan failed, and the temps rose too high.

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Though by no means essential, when I had it installed it was a neat feature.

I shall post some pics of the colors, that is if I ever get the replacement.

Cool. I'd like to have a warning light for overheating for a vehicle with an electric fan. So far the 65-70 degree temps here over two days hasn't turned on my fan but rarely. The fan comes on so gently that if not for a very slight whine I wouldn't hear it. It sounds like a whisper, and never stays on for more than 10-15 seconds. This is while stopped and idling for a time.

aldive said:

I removed the installed indicator light because I didn’t like the way I ran the wires and the light and wiring was accidentally thrown away ( don’t ask – here’s your [my] sign ).

I immediately ordered a new light from Delta Current Controls and it’s been over a week and no product.

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The light arrived today.

The install took all of 10 minutes including soldering the connections.

The pics show the progression from (1) ignition off (2) truck running with fan not turned on [green] (3) truck running with fan on low draw [pink] and (4) truck running with fan on high speed [red].

Aldive have you had an explination as to why they take so long to ship things? I would buy one of these units but I need it before the 20th of April and from your experiances I doubt they'll get it to me before that date.

Call them about a set shipping time, or try that other progressive controller that Al had mentioned.

The flex a lite? Doesn't seem like he got a lot of life out of that one for $9 cheaper then the delta he currently has.

No, sometime not too long ago he mantioned another brand, which I considered also when I bought mine. The DC Controls unit was more recommended back then, the other was unknown to me, so I bought this one through eBay. they should all be on eBay, they were last Summer. Regards,

This technologically advanced controller even has a provision for using underdrive pulleys. I have not seen this feature on other controllers. Accordingly, since UDPs (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ght=underdrive and http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ght=underdrive ) are installed on my truck, an included jumper could be installed (on pins 13 and 14 ) to provide 10% minimum current to the fan whenever the ignition is switched on ( 100% with both ignition and AC switched on ) ; however, since I have had no cooling issues, I opted not to use this feature, but its good to know I have the option if the need ever arises. I may experiment with this at a future date.

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The aforementioned “future date” is now.

I still have no AC nor cooling issues with my e fan and controller set up. Still, I wanted to optimize AC operation and decided to hook up the underdrive jumper.

A jumper was installed between terminals 13 and 14. This jumper allows 10% minimal current to the fan to aid in convection flow. If the AC is switched on, the current to the fan is 100%.

Funny thing about the jumper; I lost the one supplied with the controller, therefore, I contacted Brian Baskin at DC Controls ( http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm ) and asked how to order a replacement. He told me to just go to Radio Shack and get part number 276-1512 ( you get 10 for $0.99 [ http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103807&cp ] ).

Further, the 12 v power source had to be changed from a constant source to a switched source. The constant source had the fan powered up all the time.

The end result of this mod is a cooler, more consistent operating AC system.

Another sweet set up!

I had also connected that jumper on mine, plus the AC tap wire. After I noticed the fan running basically always I decided that it was running too much needlessly. I ran it with just the AC(blue) wire connected, and noted that my EATC system was triggering both the compressor and fan too often. I have had the blue AC wire unhooked since then. I don't need to run my AC very much on my route, with the window open.

I do use it for about 30 minutes when I can have my window up, and the AC works fine with the fan running as little as possible to maintain 194. I've got plans to use the AC lines to cool a water box, and feed that through a seat cover. I sweat more on my backside against the seat than anything else. Regards,