Keyless Entry Install (Door Lock/Unlock Wire Location)

Ok, I'm installing a cheap keyless entry system on my '94 Ex... I've got everything wired EXCEPT for the door lock and unlock (pink/yellow, pink/green) wires.

Does anybody have a good description of where they are located inside the vehicle? All of the diagrams just say "DRIVERS KICK PANEL"... I've looked through the harness up in the driver's kick panel corner, but I can't seem to find those two.

Any ideas!?

If I remember correctly, they're under the bottom door moulding on the driver's side...

Are you saying I have to access them inside the door panel?

Is there any place inside the vehicle that would be easier?

Mine are all tied in to the wiring under the dash behind the fusebox

Are you talking about the wire bundle that all plugs into the firewall at a big white connection?

I tried searching through that but didn't see the wires I needed.

Let alone, it looked almost impossible to splice into those. Maybe I need to take another look.

I wish I could find someone with pictures!

The power fuse for the door locks is fuse #5 under the dash, driver's side. there should be a bundle of wires between the fuse box and steering collumn, you will be looking for pnk/org, pnk/blk, pnk/lt grn and pnk/ylw for the switch grounds and a blk/wht all in the same bundle. The blk/wht goes to the 30 amp fuse (#5) and the others to the door switches.

If you still need pics, I can get a cpl tonight after I get home from work and show you where mine are connected.

I'm gonna go out right now and try to find it. I'll let ya know soon. Thanks for your help thus far!

Ok, so I think I found the wires...

Although, one looks more tan/yellow then pink/yellow. This picture doesn't really do it great justice, it's off my phone...

Are these the wires you hooked into?

I stuck the wires for the unlock/lock into that connector and they didn't seem to do anything.

I'm wondering if I need to figure out this relay junk people are talking about. My system did not have a factory alarm or keyless entry.

Here is the keyless entry I bought:
http://ultrastarters.com/products/ke_5.html

It says it has negative outputs for the locks, wouldn't that fit my Ex without using a relay?

coheed said:

Are you saying I have to access them inside the door panel?

Is there any place inside the vehicle that would be easier?

Click to expand...

No no not inside the door... They run underneath the plastic trim just to the left of your seat. This would be much easier than trying to splice so close to that connector in your pic. And yes the locks use a negative (-) signal, but the motors are reverse polarity... This just means you'll have to loop the circuit to your keyless entry box. I've done a couple of these so let me know if you need help.

The best spot I found was behind the drivers kick panel, not only can u tap into the wires there, but there is a pocket perfect for mounting relays back there, and once you are done your kick panel will cover it all up and make it look like its not there.

Everyone says to look behind the kick panel... But behind my plastic kick panel is a huge rubber flap covering everything behind it. Should I take that out too? (We're talking next to the parking-break mechanism)

This just means you'll have to loop the circuit to your keyless entry box.

Click to expand...

To loop the circuit, does that mean I'll need to pick up a couple of relays? How exactly do I do that? I was hoping this would be a simple plug 'n play install, but of course like everything in the automotive industry, it's never perfect!

Maybe this will help...

I saved this link I found when I was working on mine:
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiringsearch.asp
Lot's of good information there.

I installed remote start/alarm systems in both of my Ex's.
(Even added power door locks to the '91.)
It's not a job for the faint of heart - all those wires can be a mess!

But keep at it!
I ended up going back and connecting the entry lights feature to my EB after I had rested a week or so.
You can be proud of yourself after you get it done.

It's been a while since I installed mine - it's not real fresh in my brain,
but let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help.

BTW, I installed the 2900 in my EB:
http://www.crimestopper.com/combo_2-way.htm
My '91 XL has one I bought from AutoZone.

coheed said:

Everyone says to look behind the kick panel... But behind my plastic kick panel is a huge rubber flap covering everything behind it. Should I take that out too? (We're talking next to the parking-break mechanism)



To loop the circuit, does that mean I'll need to pick up a couple of relays? How exactly do I do that? I was hoping this would be a simple plug 'n play install, but of course like everything in the automotive industry, it's never perfect!

Click to expand...

I just clicked on the link to your unit... Unlike most, your's does not have the internal relays to accomodate reverse polarity, so yes you'll need a couple of 30 amp relays. I can make ya diagram if you'd like?

sikstang. a diagram would be amazing! can i pick these up at an autozone store?

Diagram for door locks

Might save you a little time and trouble, 1sikstang...
There's a diagram for wiring up the door locks on the Commando site.
Here's the direct link: http://www.commandocaralarms.com/reversepolaritylocks.asp

And yes, coheed, I bought my relays at AutoZone.
Had to ask for them - they were hiding them behind the counter.

Good luck!

on my '91 explorer i found the wires where they come from the door into the cab. the wiring clump is wrapped in black tape and behind the parking brake about 4 or 5 inches from the door weather strip. it runs down then back along the wiring track in the floor. i joined onto the two wires "lock and unlock" and ran them over to my alarm behind the glove box. ya need to run 4 wires to do this. if you wanna check to make sure you have the correct wires then take a razor knife and only slightly cut a tiny piece of insulation back so you can use a test light to see if the wire lights the tester when you lock and unlock for the other wire. if you have the correct wire then you snip it there otherwise tape it up. i found it easiest to run the 4 wires under the carpet to the right side keeping them as flat as possible and you won’t even know they are there.

keep smilin.........t

gloomis, thanks for your help with that diagram. I think that's what I'm looking for.

Why is there so much conflicting information on this?

i joined onto the two wires "lock and unlock" and ran them over to my alarm behind the glove box
. ya need to run 4 wires to do this. if you wanna check to make sure you have the correct wires then take a razor knife and only slightly cut a tiny piece of insulation back so you can use a test light to see if the wire lights the tester when you lock and unlock for the other wire.

Click to expand...

It seems like I get a different method from different people. I don't want to pick up/add the relays if I don't need to. And I was under the impression that a test-light won't work to test for the lock/unlock wires because they give a negative output.

So is there a sure-fire way to test for the correct wires once I locate the ones I think are it?

coheed,

Glad I could help some.

I learned most of this on my own from just searching and reading around, so I'm not really the most educated on the reasons why.
I just found the information and followed what it said and it worked.
(I didn't know a thing about using a relay before this. Now I sort-of understand it.)

If I remember right, I just looked for the properly-colored wires there at the driver's kick panel, especially ones coming down out of the door.
I think it will work if you cut those wires anywhere in the loop - doesn't have to be on each side of the motor like the diagram shows.

Mine took me a good day to get it all done. Just be patient and test as you go along.

Oh, one other thing I remember: Some of the systems have relays built in so you don't have to use external ones.
(First one I installed was like that, but a component on it's board fried, so that's when I went with the AutoZone one in my XL.)

Holler back if you need any help.
I'll do what I can as long as it doesn't require me to take anything apart or pull anything loose.

gloomis, where did you get your 12v constant for the relays?