- Joined
- February 16, 2001
- Messages
- 5,418
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- City, State
- 43°48′48″N 91°13′59″W
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 91 4 do'
I haven't seen a solid disc brake upgrade writeup for a Ford 9" axle so I documented what was pretty much a hunt for me to do this rebuild. My rear axle fortunately has 5x4.5 shafts however has a full aftermarket disc brake conversion. I have almost all the part numbers if someone would want to do this. I think you would spend about $600 or so in parts but install is simple, can be done by anyone with basic hand tools. I got lucky and found calipers at the swap meet for $30 to replace mine that was damaged.
It consists of 2 piece rotors, a custom flange by Wilwood that allows you to use the Dyanalite 4 piston caliper by Wilwood as well. Not the cheapest thing out there but a pretty nice setup for somebody who wants upgraded rear brakes.
Here is your parts list and suggestions. Get familiar with Coleman racing in Michigan and Wilwood in California.
1) Rotors- a 2 piece design. get yourself a "hat" that matches your bolt pattern, rotors are Coleman Racing- H81-1218-762 $71.85 each
2) Pads- Wilwood - BB10-OEM replacement type, #150-8850K $44.93
Do NOT get pads from Coleman racing, they are too soft and will wear out on a street truck in less than 1000 miles. These pads are cotter pin style for reference when ordering
3) Caliper- 1 3/8" dynalite Wilwood 120-6806 ( I found something by MTM at the swap meet you will see in this writeup)
4) brackets caliper bracket: Wilwood AF250-2229pretty sure you need 2 of these plus 1 of
(left) Wilwood 250-2100
(right) Wilwood 250-2099
Sorry, it's not the best list, but you wouldn't believe how many hours it took me to get to this point.
Anyway, lets start with a bare axle and some fun! This is a non c-clip style axle and it needs to come out for this install. There are 4 bolts that retain the axle shaft, so in this picture I have them loose.
Without getting ahead of the game, I'll show you whats going onto this thing.
The rotor
The bracket
And the caliper (the cool blue ones to replace the broken stuff you see below)
Okay, now you need to pull the axle shafts, easiest way to do this on the 9" is to flip your rotor around, put a few lugnuts on and use it like a slide hammer
Booya, it worked
Okay, if you don't know the history of your axle, now is a great time to make yourself one of these and keep it on file. I find my photo gallery a great place to do this. (I think I found the original document on Currie's website)
Okay, back to disc brake upgrade,
Put the bracket on then the shaft slides back into place.
Make sure it's looking like this picture so your rotor mounts in the right spot. There is a left and a right on this bracket.
Once the 4 bolts are tight it's easy to go from here. You can see I run a hard brake line right into the caliper. It was a pain at first for how often I was taking off the line but I've learned to suspend the caliper with a bungee when I take it off. Good thing about a 9" is that you rarely have any issues.
Then the 2 piece rotor slides right on and then you mount your caliper to the new bracket with 2 bolts, bleed them and be on your way.
And NO, I didn't try to match my calipers with my floor jack or my truck, just happened to be something I stumbled on at the offroad swap meet.
It consists of 2 piece rotors, a custom flange by Wilwood that allows you to use the Dyanalite 4 piston caliper by Wilwood as well. Not the cheapest thing out there but a pretty nice setup for somebody who wants upgraded rear brakes.
Here is your parts list and suggestions. Get familiar with Coleman racing in Michigan and Wilwood in California.
1) Rotors- a 2 piece design. get yourself a "hat" that matches your bolt pattern, rotors are Coleman Racing- H81-1218-762 $71.85 each
2) Pads- Wilwood - BB10-OEM replacement type, #150-8850K $44.93
Do NOT get pads from Coleman racing, they are too soft and will wear out on a street truck in less than 1000 miles. These pads are cotter pin style for reference when ordering
3) Caliper- 1 3/8" dynalite Wilwood 120-6806 ( I found something by MTM at the swap meet you will see in this writeup)
4) brackets caliper bracket: Wilwood AF250-2229pretty sure you need 2 of these plus 1 of
(left) Wilwood 250-2100
(right) Wilwood 250-2099
Sorry, it's not the best list, but you wouldn't believe how many hours it took me to get to this point.
Anyway, lets start with a bare axle and some fun! This is a non c-clip style axle and it needs to come out for this install. There are 4 bolts that retain the axle shaft, so in this picture I have them loose.
Without getting ahead of the game, I'll show you whats going onto this thing.
The rotor
The bracket
And the caliper (the cool blue ones to replace the broken stuff you see below)
Okay, now you need to pull the axle shafts, easiest way to do this on the 9" is to flip your rotor around, put a few lugnuts on and use it like a slide hammer
Booya, it worked
Okay, if you don't know the history of your axle, now is a great time to make yourself one of these and keep it on file. I find my photo gallery a great place to do this. (I think I found the original document on Currie's website)
Okay, back to disc brake upgrade,
Put the bracket on then the shaft slides back into place.
Make sure it's looking like this picture so your rotor mounts in the right spot. There is a left and a right on this bracket.
Once the 4 bolts are tight it's easy to go from here. You can see I run a hard brake line right into the caliper. It was a pain at first for how often I was taking off the line but I've learned to suspend the caliper with a bungee when I take it off. Good thing about a 9" is that you rarely have any issues.
Then the 2 piece rotor slides right on and then you mount your caliper to the new bracket with 2 bolts, bleed them and be on your way.
And NO, I didn't try to match my calipers with my floor jack or my truck, just happened to be something I stumbled on at the offroad swap meet.
