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Window problem

YountExplr

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Joined
January 11, 2008
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City, State
Chino Valley, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 XL
Hey everybody,

My friend's girlfriend has an '03 and she says that her windows are not rolling up unless the door is open. Does anybody know what might be wrong? I looked around at some threads and my thinking is it might be the regulator, but since I have no experience with 3rd gens, I'd appreciate some help with this one.

Ill also try to get some more information.
 



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so this is affecting all 4 windows, so im thinking the black ground wire after some more reading. IF you have any other thoughts, let me know
 






I'm not sure about the door open vs. closed thing, but I can tell you I just spent the last six hours with my door torn apart because all my windows stopped working a few weeks ago. Several threads discuss the exact issue I suffered - a severed light blue/black striped power wire going to the master switch in the driver's door. Before all my windows stopped working, they worked sporadically. If I had $5 to bet, I'd say the power wire, which is prone to stretching/severing due to Ford's need to save 2 inches of wire on every Explorer, is about to break. It may be that it's making a connection when the door is open and stretching enough to lose its connection as the door closes.

If all windows stop working altogether, this is the first thing I'd check. However, just in case, and as a potential time savings, crawl under the steering wheel and look at the fuse panel. There should be a fuse puller hanging by the fuse puller. Pull fuse 17. If it's bad, replace it - your problem should be solved. If it's good, proceed.

I gotta warn you, this is a serious PITA to get to, but you can do it with some patience and time. With the door open, you can pull the rubber boot back at the door (this is where mine broke), but mine looked fine initially. It wasn't until I removed my door panel, disconnected all the connectors I could, removed the sound deadening baffle, and unwrapped the harness of its electrical wire all the way up to where the harness enters the door, before I saw the break. If you have 4 inches of 12 gauge wire and some electrical tape, you'll have it fixed in five minutes.

Since yours is an '03, it's likely identical to my '02 in terms of how to remove the door panel. Get a flat tip screwdriver or, better yet, a putty knife, and pry off the plastic cover around the door handle. At that point, you should be able to remove the door lock/window buttons/window lock assembly and pop off the three connectors. This is a good time to see if a broken wire is your problem. Grab a voltmeter, set it to DCV (DC Volts) 20 ("20" volts is the right setting since you have a 12-volt auto) and stick the positive lead of the voltmeter in pin 6 of the connector (this is on the opposite side of the connector from where the light blue/black striped wire enters the connector) and put the voltmeter's negative lead to ground (try to find a bolt on the frame that doesn't have paint on it or, better yet, if the leads are long enough, put the negative lead on the ground side of the battery). Do this with the ignition ON. I did this and got a reading of "0.0" so I knew I was not getting power to the connector. Given your issue, I'd do this test with the door open and closed. If you get "0.0" or less than 10 volts, proceed.

Go back to the area just above the door handle. You'll notice a single screw holding a white plastic bracket that provides support for the arm rest. Remove that screw. You'll also notice two screws at the very bottom of the door panel. I believe they're 7/32 or 6mm. Remove them.

At this point, you can lift the door panel off the car. I swung it around and rested it on the running board while doing the work. I also had to leave it there because I wasn't smart enough to figure out how to remove the connector for the @#$%ing memory seats! Remove the speaker and disconnect it.

Remove the sound baffle. Be careful not to tear it. Before you reinstall it, go to Wally World and hit the window weather stripping aisle. You can pick up some double sided "Duck" tape in a 1/2 inch x24 foot roll for $2. Once the baffle is removed it'll make sense where to apply the double-sided tape.

As mentioned above, I couldn't remove all the connectors to just pull the harness through the door and check out the light blue and black striped wire. So, I had to slowly, painfully unwrap the harness of its eletrical tape until I got up to the door opening. This also required some extremely sensitive use of an exacto knife.

I hope this helps. I couldn't find the above information yesterday when I was researching how I'd go about this, so I figured I'd give you as much info as possible (sorry if it's too long).

So, for $7 and some of your time, you'll further cement your stud status with your girlfriend! Make sure she takes you out to dinner since you saved her $200.
 






except its my friends girlfriend :D but maybe ill make her get me dinner anyways:thumbsup: ... maybe some taco bell lol
 






Ahh, I need to read closer! Trouble with Taco Bell is SHE'LL be making money on that transaction! You'll have more money in electrical tape than a #1 with extra sour cream! Good luck.
 






theofam, great details on the operation! From reading several posts, I believe I need to inspect the wires. I have been putting it off because like you said it's a serious PITA. After reading your detailed instructions I have new motivation to tackle this thing once and for all!!! Thanks.
 






BigRondo, it's a PITA for me, because I suffer some sort of Mechanical Deficiency Disorder! If you're handy, you'll fly through it. Much of the time was just figuring out how to remove the door panel. Once you get those three screws out (again, I've an '02 - your model may vary), the door panel simply lifts out vertically.

I hope you're able to fix it. My wife thinks I've more hair on my chest after I got the windows fixed all by myself!:)
 






I have the '02 XLT. Should be the same as yours. Hopefully when I'm done I'll have hair on my chest too!!! Thanks again. I know it's gonna be a PITA but your step-by-step should make it alot easier.
 






BigRondo, it's a PITA for me, because I suffer some sort of Mechanical Deficiency Disorder! If you're handy, you'll fly through it. Much of the time was just figuring out how to remove the door panel. Once you get those three screws out (again, I've an '02 - your model may vary), the door panel simply lifts out vertically.

I hope you're able to fix it. My wife thinks I've more hair on my chest after I got the windows fixed all by myself!:)

theofam, I got it fixed. It was the smaller of the 2 ground wires. I followed your instructions and it wasn't bad. Good call on the tape from Wally World. It worked perfectly. Thanks!
 






theofam, I got it fixed. It was the smaller of the 2 ground wires. I followed your instructions and it wasn't bad. Good call on the tape from Wally World. It worked perfectly. Thanks!

Cool! Glad to hear you got it done! Now you get to go through drive-thru windows again.
 






Cool! Glad to hear you got it done! Now you get to go through drive-thru windows again.

Mine wasn't a window problem but dome lights staying on, door ajar light coming on while the highway (guess the wind blowing in the door), driver door lock button not working, driver puddle light not working, etc. All fixed now. Gotta tackle the rear passenger window not working next. Thanks man.:)
 


















BigRondo,

Depending on whether it's your left rear or right rear window not working, go to either Test D or Test E in this document:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/14896086/2002-Explorer-Power-Window-System-Diagnosis

It should help you figure out the problem. Have fun!

theofam, that is a great troubleshooting doc but as it turns out I didn't need it. I discovered that the switch on the passenger side rear window was disconnected. The window binds and only goes down about a 1/4". I guess the previous owner disconnected the switch so the window couldn't be used. I purchased the ex in February and am discovering a lot of little things that need attention. Anybody have any ideas what my next step should be with this window? Thanks
 






theofam, that is a great troubleshooting doc but as it turns out I didn't need it. I discovered that the switch on the passenger side rear window was disconnected. The window binds and only goes down about a 1/4". I guess the previous owner disconnected the switch so the window couldn't be used. I purchased the ex in February and am discovering a lot of little things that need attention. Anybody have any ideas what my next step should be with this window? Thanks

Hmm. Glad the switch was just disconnected, but I'm not sure about it binding up. I guess I'd remove the door panel and take a look at the window regulator. You might see something causing it to bind up. Or, maybe the motor is hosed. I guess it's possible the motor isn't getting enough voltage to move the window very far. If you don't have one, it might be worth putting a voltmeter's positive lead on the power wire going to the motor and ground the other wire. If it's getting around 12 volts, you're getting power to the motor - should lead you to the motor or regulator. If not 12 volts, you'd have a power delivery issue. Just a couple thoughts. Good luck!
 






theofam, I will check it out and let you know. Thanks for the ideas.
 






Finally got around to investigating the issue I was having with the rear passenger window. Turns out it wasn't binding. The PO must have had duct tape or something on the window because the residual adhesive in the weatherstrip was holding the window up. First thing I did was connect the switch (the OP had it disconnected probably so the kids wouldn't mess with it). Then I tried the window and after 4-5 seconds it went down and has been working ever since. Maybe the warm weather softened up the adhesive. It is almost impossible to get all the adhesive out of the top window track. Just when I think I have it all the window comes down with adhesive on it. Any ideas on removing the adhesive short of replacing the molding? Maybe Joe Dirt will read this and come up with something!!! lol :salute:
 












Most adhesives will soften and dissolve using Zippo lighter fluid and it won't harm the paint or most plastics.
 



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Most adhesives will soften and dissolve using Zippo lighter fluid and it won't harm the paint or most plastics.

Thanks. What about harming the rubber molding the window "rides" in? :salute:
 






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