Offset TRE's with Stonecrusher style steering

I am building a Stone Crusher type steering for my truck with 1 ton TRE's. I am having some minor clearance issues on the beam pivot on pass side. I found TRE's with a 1 inch offset on Ruffstuffspecialties.com . Has anyone used these on this type of steering. I have seen that some use them on there Jeeps with solid axles for front diff cover clearance. Hopefully this link works so you can see what im talking about.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFF.html


I know a stone crusher steering has different stresses than a regular steering setup would have. It should be stong enough but I was just looking to see if anyone can talk me out of them

Alright i went ahead and ordered them. I'll let you know if they work.

Never used those but they do look awesome. Please keep us updated! I've been kicking around the idea of building a custom linkage for my ttb and I've been debating the vises/virtues of the SCS against what I have deemed a 'crossover' setup.

P.S. Could your share what all you've done to you X as far as lift/pitman arm/usage?

Not sure if I like those for the reason it moves the steering forces out from being inline with the tierods (puts a bending moment on things), however if everything is built beefy enough (1.5" .250 wall DOM tube for the tierods, etc.), I don't see it being an issue.

I take it you can't move the axle forward or back at all to gain enough clearance around the bracket using normal TREs?

The lift on the truck is a mix of parts adding up to a 4 inch lift. I'm using skyjacker drop brackets with bronco coil buckets and coils. The radius arms are extended and as of right now i am using a superlift pitman arm fa400. The axles have been pushed forward an inch. The steering does work without the offset TRE's, but the center heim rubs on the drop bracket when turning all the way to the right. I am using 1 1/4 .120 with 1 1/2 .120 sleeved on the outside. That should have the same or nearly the same strenght as .25 wall tube. I dont think it will bend since my pro-tool 105 bender can barely bend it. We have used this steel for a freinds crossover steering on his desert truck and havn't had any problems with bending. Thanks for the reassurance!

Update. The offset TRE's came and it looks like they will fix my clearance issues. But i ran into a problem. I have already reamed the knuckles out for the larger draglink style ends. Now i have to drill them all the way out and drop in one of those tappered inserts. Parts are ordered and now i wait another week!!!

We need pics .

I need to do something with our steering setup. The stock setup doesn't like all the flex. Even with the dropped arm, the steering isn't flat anymore with 5" or so of lift.

I tried to buy the stonecrusher steering setup but they aren't selling them for RBV now.

That means its time to build one..

~Mark

I havn't put it together yet with the new offset TRE's because of the taper being to large. I will probably work on setting it up in the next day or so and take some pics.

Maniak said:

We need pics .

I need to do something with our steering setup. The stock setup doesn't like all the flex. Even with the dropped arm, the steering isn't flat anymore with 5" or so of lift.

I tried to buy the stonecrusher steering setup but they aren't selling them for RBV now.

That means its time to build one..

~Mark

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Which arm are you using Maniak? I've got the FA600 with 6" lift (sagged a bit tho)..

Nedwreck said:

Which arm are you using Maniak? I've got the FA600 with 6" lift (sagged a bit tho)..

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I still have the fa400. It was perfect when we had 4" of lift. We now have about 5" of lift (Duff 3.5" springs + f-150 spring seats).

4" with fa400.

Steering Linkage geometry by maniak_az, on Flickr


5" with fa400

cut & turned - Front suspension shot by maniak_az, on Flickr

Its still pretty "close" to flat, but I get a lot of suspension travel now. Enough that things bind up when its really flexed which is why I want to change the steering type.

You can see things are out of alignment at extreme flex.

Truckhaven-mlk 2012 -5 - close up by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark

Ok i got the front mocked up tonight. I still need to finish the center mount for the heim joint and I'm waiting for the inserts still. The offset TRE's work good except that the drivers side is a little close at full up travel. If it rubs I will put a little bend in the bar

A few more pictures that i took

I like how that looks. The only piece I have a question on (at least right now) is the metal you used for the tabs for the center heim. It looks like you bent over some 1/8" stock. Is it thicker than that or is that just part of the mock up for now?

The more I look at this type of steering the more I think I really want to try to do this myself.

~Mark

Its 3/16 steel and i will probably plate it one more time

Maniak said:

Its still pretty "close" to flat, but I get a lot of suspension travel now. Enough that things bind up when its really flexed which is why I want to change the steering type.

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If you have modified beams on that, the linkage should not be "flat" like would be best with stock beams, it should instead be "in phase" with the beams at ride height (which yours appears to be).
You want toe variations minimized as much as possible at ride height.

The stock linkage certainly isn't the greatest if you're pulling more than about 14" travel at the wheel though, no doubt.

Any ideas on making the geometry look better here? I know that I should probably get a pitman arm with more drop. I already have superlifts fa400. Its to short but the fa600 would almost be to long?

FA400 and FA600 are Skyjacker pt#s not Superlift, just FYI.

The FA600 drops 2" lower than your normal drop arm, which I think would be right about perfect on that.
Do keep in mind the FA600 arm also pushes the pitman arm attachment point back about maybe an inch or so, so plan on putting that slight bend in the tierod for sure.

Silent Observer



FA400's worthless over 2". Go with the FA600 to drop the pitman arm link down to the same level, or as close as possible to the radius arm pivot point. It'll bring your geometry in better alignment.

FA400 and FA600 are Skyjacker pt#s not Superlift, just FYI

Click to expand...

Mine came in a superlift box and has fa400 stamped on the arm. Could have been a mixup at the 4wheelparts store here.