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Ford Vehicle Security System

DeepEmissions

Active Member
Joined
September 6, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Okeechobee, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
I've always wanted to find out what security system was installed in my truck. Today, I didn't have a choice.

For some reason, my security system would go kinda sideways when I would disconnect the battery. Since I've taken the battery off a number of times so far since I've owned the truck I've learned the proper way to circumvent the security system causing any issues.

Currently, my 'Valet' button/light has a slow steady flash to it (about 1 flash a second.) This has only happened one other time, I was stuck at a gas station for 45 minutes while a concoction of different methods finally let the truck start up.
This time, however, I cannot figure out how to stop this thing from disabling my ignition, does anyone have any suggestions?

Short of removing the system, because I do like having it, if I could adjust it's super crazy settings. I have removed it from under the dash, in hopes of getting to some hard coded settings on the board. There are DIP Switches, but I don't know what they do. This thing's wired all over my dash and there's no telling what it would take to get my truck to start without this module in place.
 



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Pats

The system that's giving you so much trouble is called the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS). It can be very annoying and expensive to deal with. This is because only the dealer is capable of programming and scanning this system. Here is a link with literally "everything you needed to know about PATS":

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234975

EDIT: If you need to do any wiring/diagnosing, use this link. The username is rrcc and the password is rebsco.

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?.../ssc/p5_anti_theft/passive_anti_theft_circuit

Good luck!
 






Thanks thorney!

But I thought this may be the same thing, and now I feel I'm getting conflicting results.
I was under the impression, this particular Module I have is literally a Dealer install option.
The subject of the post is actually what it states on the side of the Module!
Here's a pic.
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

EDIT:
I'm looking through your link now, in case you may need to remove it...
 






Nope, I don't have to remove the link. It's for all to see and use. It is not my personal account, but one that has been floating around the forum. I am not sure of its origin but damn is it helpful.....

My power is currently out and my desktop is not on the generator circuit. So, I am stuck on the iPad and wont be able to see your picture until I get power back. Does the module have any ford markings/part numbers? Professional install? (no crimp connectors- or worse- wire nuts?) I don't now of any dealer installed security option, but that doesn't mean much.

Edit: Is the 'valet' light you mentioned the 'theft' light on the dash? If not than I'm mighty confused and probably about as useful as a **** flavored lolly pop. But I'll try and help as best I can.:salute:
 






Also, this Module shown in the link above definitely isn't PATS, this device is very active.
With a HoodLock sensor and shock sensor, there's not a PATS Module that ford makes that I've found that has both these sensors, and it's own siren.
The location doesn't match either, according to the documentation from the website, the PATS Module is located in the rear of the truck, this module was located under the dash, drivers side, after removing the plastic cover and the metal cover, the system is located there and has splices in several wiring harnesses. That makes me really uneasy to remove this system since I do not know what this system could be spliced into.

Thorney:
Doing a quick search for "LBL0436" I found this link: http://www.autoalarmpro.com/inc/sdetail/1797, it has a description of the module and it even describes the layout of the connectors... EXACTLY what I have. Here's the Ford part number it states their module replaces: F3AZ-19A361-J

My Valet light is a spring loaded LED button, very common for alarm systems, and is located next to the multifunction lever aka turn signal.
The button gets activated so when the vehicle is parked by the Valet, the system arms itself and cannot be disabled without the keyfob.
Oh yeah, and my stock keyless entry keyfob controls the system just fine!
 






Dealer Installed Security

I think I found what you have.... Does this sound familiar?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364007

You're not alone in disliking it...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266765

Just looked at both my ex's and neither has this system... Wish I could help you more....


Edit: just saw your edit after I posted. I think with some creative cutting and wiring(if you want to remove it) you could remove the system without issue. I'll look into diagrams a bit more and see what I can find.
 






My apologies.... I'm getting confused with all this valet/alarm/key fob/blinking light talk. I have little experience with non-PATS alarm systems. Pardon me if this comes across as harsh/mean sounding, but I'm only trying to clear myself up and help you out. Your problem is a funky acting alarm system that inhibits vehicle starting. Correct? You are hoping to stop the system from disabling your vehicle-preferably by fixing it. Would an acceptable solution be bypassing the systems ability to interrupt the starter relay signal? If I am reading correctly, this is what dta74 does in that first link I posted. All other alarm functions remain intact and functional but the system loses the ability to leave you stranded.
 






System Function

This thing's wired all over my dash and there's no telling what it would take to get my truck to start without this module in place.

Ive done a little more learning and reading.....:popcorn:

If you put all the functions outside of security aside (mostly key fob control) all the system does is take a single? input (shock sensor box) and convert it into two outputs- alarm and starter disable. Theoretically you could cut out the entire system and just jumper the starter relay signal, with no other ill effects.
 






I know I am throwing a lot of info out there but I'm just trying to give as much info as possible.
I think I may try dta74's disable method he cites and see if I can get my truck started in the AM, I'll update once I try this.
I was able to find the "disable" button under the dash: insert key, turn to "on," reach under dash, press and hold button for a second until gauge cluster lights blink and alarm chirps. Car will start and LED indicator on dash stops blinking. Alarm still normally engages LED indicator and enables starter interrupt a few minutes after shutting off the ignition - I just can't turn on the alarm (doors, hood, shock sensor).
 






I know I am throwing a lot of info out there but I'm just trying to give as much info as possible.
I think I may try dta74's disable method he cites and see if I can get my truck started in the AM, I'll update once I try this.

Sounds to me like someone installed an after market alarm system.

I know you'll hate me for this, but open up the dash and see if there are any alarm boxes hiding.

It's not hard to do, it's just removing the panel under the steering wheel by your knees. That's where most alarms are put.

Just take it off and see if there's a box with a bunch of wires running into it..
 






Success!

Sounds to me like someone installed an after market alarm system.

I know you'll hate me for this, but open up the dash and see if there are any alarm boxes hiding.

DjDom, that's where I found the Ford Vehicle Security System Module.

Basically, what I did, since the battery was already unhooked I re-installed the module, clamped the cable on the battery now this has caused the siren to chirp (almost like a cop or ambulance would to get your attention) and my Valet button is flashing rapidly.
I already know I only have about 10 seconds to click the unlock button on my keyfob before the alarm will sound.
Instead I climb in the truck slide the key in the ignition and pressed the valet button so I could attempt to use the method I quoted earlier, now I really pissed it off.
The alarm is whaling so I went ahead and just cranked it while holding down the button, SUCCESS!
I let the truck idle for a bit to warm up so I could check that there weren't going to be any issues with the newly installed upper and lower thermostat housing, turned the truck off, and was able to crank it again with no issues.
It's amazing to me that this factory/dealer installed device could be so troublesome.
For now, it will remain in the truck, but one more outburst like that again and I'll be forced to take more drastic measures.

I'm sure dta74's instructions would've worked, had I payed attention and followed them correctly. I accidently pressed the valet button Before I had the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
The system may have seen that an attempt was being made to disable the alarm before it went off, and sounded the alarm anyways.

Helpful Links:
dta74's thread on Ford Vehicle Security System Module

AutoAlarmPro 1998 Ford Explorer XLT Ford Part#: F3AZ-19A361-J
This seems to be a great place to go if something may have happened to your factory system and you'd like a direct replacement without going to Ford.

Note how my Module differs from dta74's on his thread, it seems they're very specific and even AutoAlarmPro goes to great lengths to describe in great detail to make sure you're getting the correct module.
One Size DOES NOT fit all!

Thank you to everyone who decided to check out my thread!
thorney_5
dta74 (for his useful thread)
DjDom, lol thanks for stopping by anyways!
I was already dreading taking the plastics off, then to be met with a piece of sheet metal!?!?!? You ever felt like kicking engineers in the balls for not considering someone may have to work on this one day??
 






Glad you got it all figured out.... hope it doesn't give you too much trouble in the future!
 






Reprogram New Remote

Hey everyone, I know this is an old thread, but its literally the only help I could find on the subject. I have the ford 600 Plus vehicle security system in my 96 F150. My only working remote got wet and died. I ordered a new one. but it will not take to the system. It will go into (what I believe is) "programming mode", where i turn the key to "on" and hold the override switch for 15 seconds, when the locks cycle and the siren chirps 3 times simultaneously, but it will not accept the new remote. I have the small manual that came with the truck, but there are no programming instructions, and I cant find a manual anywhere on the internet.

Can anyone offer any help?
 






It will go into (what I believe is) "programming mode", where i turn the key to "on" and hold the override switch for 15 seconds, when the locks cycle and the siren chirps 3 times simultaneously, but it will not accept the new remote.

Don't feel shy to use the tools on this thread at your disposal, I really wish I could help, but until I take on the daunting task of attempting to swap out my Key Fobs for just being worn out, or adding a button for a feature, I'm not touching this alarm system until I have both vehicles on the road again :)

I will say this, yet again rebirthing an old thread, You've officially gotten further than I have with my Active Alarm System, (I'm calling it A.S.S. for short! :D)
Recently, because of the poor placement, or maybe my poor foresight into my last project, I broke the Valet button off the side of my Steering Column. Good luck finding another button to replace it! But I do plan on taking the three wires that are on this button, (assuming one is ground, one is LED light, and one is for the depress switch) and separating the dual function light/button into a more Theft Deterrent light and Valet button.

I'll thread that project for all to see, by the way... lol.

I've been incredibly busy at work (busy season) but things will start to slow soon and I can get back to wrenching my Explorer and 2007 Yamaha FZ6.
 






Success!



DjDom, that's where I found the Ford Vehicle Security System Module.

Basically, what I did, since the battery was already unhooked I re-installed the module, clamped the cable on the battery now this has caused the siren to chirp (almost like a cop or ambulance would to get your attention) and my Valet button is flashing rapidly.
I already know I only have about 10 seconds to click the unlock button on my keyfob before the alarm will sound.
Instead I climb in the truck slide the key in the ignition and pressed the valet button so I could attempt to use the method I quoted earlier, now I really pissed it off.
The alarm is whaling so I went ahead and just cranked it while holding down the button, SUCCESS!
I let the truck idle for a bit to warm up so I could check that there weren't going to be any issues with the newly installed upper and lower thermostat housing, turned the truck off, and was able to crank it again with no issues.
It's amazing to me that this factory/dealer installed device could be so troublesome.
For now, it will remain in the truck, but one more outburst like that again and I'll be forced to take more drastic measures.

I'm sure dta74's instructions would've worked, had I payed attention and followed them correctly. I accidently pressed the valet button Before I had the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
The system may have seen that an attempt was being made to disable the alarm before it went off, and sounded the alarm anyways.

Helpful Links:
dta74's thread on Ford Vehicle Security System Module

AutoAlarmPro 1998 Ford Explorer XLT Ford Part#: F3AZ-19A361-J
This seems to be a great place to go if something may have happened to your factory system and you'd like a direct replacement without going to Ford.

Note how my Module differs from dta74's on his thread, it seems they're very specific and even AutoAlarmPro goes to great lengths to describe in great detail to make sure you're getting the correct module.
One Size DOES NOT fit all!

Thank you to everyone who decided to check out my thread!
thorney_5
dta74 (for his useful thread)
DjDom, lol thanks for stopping by anyways!
I was already dreading taking the plastics off, then to be met with a piece of sheet metal!?!?!? You ever felt like kicking engineers in the balls for not considering someone may have to work on this one day??


I know Right? This 96 explorer is the most resistant vehicle I have ever had to work on.
It was an abused *******. Driven into the ground when I got it there was almost no water in it, 3qts low of oil, two broken plug wires, intake leaks, bad MAF sens, bad DPFE sens, bad ETC sens, bad IAC sens, leaking injectors, bad fuel pump, the thing couldn't get out of it's own way, But it would still go down the road. So I have been trying to get it right, and I the process The key got stuck in the ignition switch. (BTW I found out the ignition key doesn't open the doors,that was a sad day. since I don't have that one) so I got the ignition cylinder and key out and that thing is a wreck too (go figure) decided to call it a night, and noticed the instrument lights aglow. hmm, so I did what any dumb ass would and shoved the closest screwdriver in there to turn the switch off. Mistake. which I am guessing I was the only one to fall victim too since I ended up here. Just another reason to hate this truck. That's a shame too I am really trying to be it's friend.
 






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