My A4LD rebuild (no Forward only Reverse)

[Question] My A4LD rebuild (no Forward only Reverse)

I know there are a bunch of great threads on rebuilding the A4LD (GREAT threads by Glacier991) but please bear with me.

My issue was that I only had Reverse, no forward AT ALL. There are a few posts on here asking what might cause it, most unanswered.

So here we go.

First off, these things are not easy to get out. Granted mine is a 4x4 so the transfer case added some grief, but still - those bellhousing bolts at the top? prepare to run to the store to pick up more then a few socket extensions. (I actually picked up a wobble set from Harbor Fright Tools for just a few bucks)


Finally out



I fully expected to see metal in the pan. (and was very happy when I didn't, though I should have changed the trans fluid when I bought the truck...)



Start with removing the Low Reverse Servo cover, Detent Spring, and then the Valve body



After wiping the oil from the Low reverse servo cover I was left with a buildup of gunk, it was almost dry packed in there.



Photo for referencing solenoid wire hookup



VB bolts loosened



Here's the "Bolt Board" I put the Valve Body bolts on to keep them organized



Then mounted it on the engine stand




The next items I consider a must have to maintain a level of sanity:

1) Large print outs of the exploded view


2) A nice clean work area


Oh, and the bags. Those are a MUST.

More to come.

-Charles

Bellhousing off




Trust Washer #1 (very surprised by how little wear...)




Then I removed the servos




Word of WARNING here.
On Glacier's thread there is a photo:

Glacier991 said:

Click to expand...

That photo would make one think that it would take some effort to get the cover off, BUT you need to be prepared for them to be loose and FLY OFF under the spring tension. My intermediate ended up hitting the cement, putting a nice gouge in cover just behind the O ring.

If I could go back I would have turned the trans 90 degrees on the stand and had the servo covers facing UP.

I then pulled out the OD band and drum

Band apply strut pin and lever




The OD has a cage that slides out the VB side.




The arrangement of the lever, pin, and cage. For reassembly reference.




I found that a trim clip tool worked great on the ring clip for the center support, It had a nice curve to it to pry out the clip without gouging the case.

Tracking where the Thrust Washers/Bearing go







(No 4 in this Trans)

Removed the Forward Drum and Shell.



Mine came out as one big heavy assembly due to the locking tabs on the shell.






That leaves the reverse drum in the case




Wow, look how much of a gap is between that snap ring and the pressure plate on the forward!




Removed the Friction discs and Steels and found the rubber cushion is obliterated.



AND THIS IS WHY MY FORWARD DIDN'T WORK!:

(Forward on the left, reverse on the right)


Friction material is COMPLETELY gone. I'm so glad I didn't hammer on this thing when it stopped going forward, those things could have disenergrated.

Noticed something on my OD drum, the tabs the Star Washer lock into are galled on one side. I do have a new Star Washer on order.



What do you guys think? Thats bad enough to warrant a replacement, correct?

That should be replaced, along with the sun gear shell for the same reason.

Wear like that causes gear train slack and can cause clunks when off and on the gas.

Make sure you get a shell with the lock tabs.

There is one way to save the drum and that is to weld the star washer to the drum, I have done it a few times when I got desperate.

The star washer could be flipped over and reused but they are cheap so replace it.

Check for pitting at the bearing for the overdrive planet to overdrive hub. That open side bearing is know to pit the planet and hub.

Yeah, got some requests for prices out there, hopefully I can still find one in the ~$30 range.

I got a new Star Washer.

This is the OD drum, why would this damage require replacing the Shell? I've already got the one with the locking tabs (see post above^) The Shell looks to be in good shape.

Thanks for the advice on the planet bearing, I'll check that.


Thanks,
-Charles

Yea that is the OD drum, what I was referring too is that the shell has the same type of wear that the drum has, this is where the direct drum rides on the shell. The drum is probably fine its the shell that takes the wear.

Ah, yep.

Parts!

Got rebuild parts.

Started rebuilding the other drums (still waiting on a new OD drum, wherever Glacier was able to get a new one for $30 must not exist anymore, best I've found is $40 for a used one)

Found a neat work around for not having the seal protectors, large heat shrink.






With the red springs from the Surpiror Shift kit:




Built a spring compressor. $100 on a one time use tool? no thanks. $3 in hardware sounds much better.

Good write up so far! Before long I'll be doing the same thing with my dads 93 sport.

Thanks for the feedback, its good to know folks are reading along and that I'm not just posting to dead space.

Sincere thanks.....I like real pictures. No issues now but looking to get one from the bone yard to rebuild..With these pictures I should be OK. However, one question. Did you have a shop manual you were using for reference? Can you recommend one?

Im using Glacier991 4 part rebuild thread, the first one is found here:

A4LD REBUILD DIARY PT 1

I recommend reading all 4 parts, then go back to part one, it'll all start to make sense.

I wanted this thread to be a 10 years later reference. I'll Post any updated info or parts I find, with a on a budget viewpoint.

One thing's for sure- the days of finding a New OD drum for $30, as Glacier did, are long gone. Best I've found is $40 for a used one.

Does anyone know if the OD drum from a 4R55 or 5R55 will work in the A4LD? Maybe someone familiar with the frankentrans stuff.

No the sealing rings and center support are different, you will end up with a part interchange nightmare. Just get the used one, as long as its not worn it will be the same as a new one.

Have you tried Transtar? It also will be a used one but cleaned up with new bushings.

1800-633-3340

Cool, Yeah Transtar wants $65 for a used OD, their shell with locking tabs is $23 and they have it local, so I may just bite the bullet and go pick them both up. I'll for sure get the shell. (and then I can at least get assembly done to the center support.)