Warszawik Adam
New Member
- Joined
- September 10, 2008
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- New Britain CT USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 00 Ranger 4.0 OHV -5R55E
Gents,
My name is Adam I have read all of the postings about rebuilding the 5R55E and have done all of the bandaids that are in there. I think this is a new post but you could have had the same problem as me in the past.
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 OHV motor that runs great ex for the 5R55E Trans I am upto date with most of the bandaids let me tell you what has been done and is was running fine for a good 35K
@119K
Replaced and adjusted EPC Solenoid.
Transgo Shift Improver update Installed
Sonnex Boost Valve at the same time.
Valve Body Sepereator plate with bonded gaskets installed
D ring upgraded on the on the reverse servo and chamfered the piston to avoid scorring.
Over drive Band adjusted 2 turns out
Inter Band adjusted 2 turns out. (trid 2.5 better at 2.0)
Local shop recommended 1/8 turn in on the T screw on the back of the EPC.
Shifts much harder and holds stronger.
New Filter
3Q plus Aluminum Pan a long time ago.
I have no other problems ex the one I will describe while driving. Truck shifts good through the gear box and does not slop or hesitiate between shifts.
Disc of Problem:
While driving the truck on flat ground or up hill Shift out of first no problem no slip Very nice and firm. Shifts out of second no problem firm. shifts third and on. fine When the torque converter is locked into final drive its doing good as well. If I am traveling on the highway at 60 MPH and give half throttle to go to 75mph the truck is fine and does not shift down. If I give full throttle the truck will hesitate to shift down and will stay locked in accelerating no shift down some time a knock or a bang like its trying to shift down. If traffic slows down and I need to pass from 50-75 the transmission will not shift down unless apply full throttle and it knocks and then hesitates to shift down. Its like it does not know what speed the vehical is going or the torque conveerter does not unlock to allow for shift down (come out of overdrive). There is no slipping during this time. If I tap the gas twice harder it shifts down and takes off. Its almost like the not enough vaccum problem on odifferent transmissions.
Here is the burner. No codes when scanned everything running fine.
Here are my next replacements because If I get the thing rebuilt they will not replace these things unless its showing problems.
Torque convered Solenoid
Band Servo rebuild replace
Speed Sensor
Ruffly about $100 im material.
.. Has anyone had this problem in the past. Please feel free to write to me direct. I think I described the problem well enought to get you guys thinking.
If I cant replace it at least I have a good idea of what the guy should be replacing or targeting when it goes into the shop. Just so they dont throw in a muffler bearing charge in there that was not part of the problem.
I do most of everything myself and have been for a long time. I hate going to the transmission shops because I have landed on alot of bull shniters over the years trying to sell me everything and telling me that the problem is catastrofic you should put a new transmission. Oww i have one right here. Most of the guys play the try it game with these transmissions as well.
Thank you for taking the time even if this has popped up in the past.
pezda1@yahoo.com
My name is Adam I have read all of the postings about rebuilding the 5R55E and have done all of the bandaids that are in there. I think this is a new post but you could have had the same problem as me in the past.
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 OHV motor that runs great ex for the 5R55E Trans I am upto date with most of the bandaids let me tell you what has been done and is was running fine for a good 35K
@119K
Replaced and adjusted EPC Solenoid.
Transgo Shift Improver update Installed
Sonnex Boost Valve at the same time.
Valve Body Sepereator plate with bonded gaskets installed
D ring upgraded on the on the reverse servo and chamfered the piston to avoid scorring.
Over drive Band adjusted 2 turns out
Inter Band adjusted 2 turns out. (trid 2.5 better at 2.0)
Local shop recommended 1/8 turn in on the T screw on the back of the EPC.
Shifts much harder and holds stronger.
New Filter
3Q plus Aluminum Pan a long time ago.
I have no other problems ex the one I will describe while driving. Truck shifts good through the gear box and does not slop or hesitiate between shifts.
Disc of Problem:
While driving the truck on flat ground or up hill Shift out of first no problem no slip Very nice and firm. Shifts out of second no problem firm. shifts third and on. fine When the torque converter is locked into final drive its doing good as well. If I am traveling on the highway at 60 MPH and give half throttle to go to 75mph the truck is fine and does not shift down. If I give full throttle the truck will hesitate to shift down and will stay locked in accelerating no shift down some time a knock or a bang like its trying to shift down. If traffic slows down and I need to pass from 50-75 the transmission will not shift down unless apply full throttle and it knocks and then hesitates to shift down. Its like it does not know what speed the vehical is going or the torque conveerter does not unlock to allow for shift down (come out of overdrive). There is no slipping during this time. If I tap the gas twice harder it shifts down and takes off. Its almost like the not enough vaccum problem on odifferent transmissions.
Here is the burner. No codes when scanned everything running fine.
Here are my next replacements because If I get the thing rebuilt they will not replace these things unless its showing problems.
Torque convered Solenoid
Band Servo rebuild replace
Speed Sensor
Ruffly about $100 im material.
.. Has anyone had this problem in the past. Please feel free to write to me direct. I think I described the problem well enought to get you guys thinking.
If I cant replace it at least I have a good idea of what the guy should be replacing or targeting when it goes into the shop. Just so they dont throw in a muffler bearing charge in there that was not part of the problem.
I do most of everything myself and have been for a long time. I hate going to the transmission shops because I have landed on alot of bull shniters over the years trying to sell me everything and telling me that the problem is catastrofic you should put a new transmission. Oww i have one right here. Most of the guys play the try it game with these transmissions as well.
Thank you for taking the time even if this has popped up in the past.
pezda1@yahoo.com
