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00 Sport 2wd lots of questions

ExSport00

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Joined
October 4, 2010
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City, State
Birmingham Alabama
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Explorer Sport
Ok sorry for all the random questions, but I'm getting conflicting information on some of these. Some I'm just wondering if anyone has any pictures of.

Just bought another 00 sport, nicer trim and interior, 153k miles. Runs so great, geared different from my old one it would seem, ol girl hauls ass, all things considered. Anyways, I plan to buy some plain black offset steel wheels, with 31x10.5 Cooper STT Pros. I want to do a TT/Tkeys?, 4dr leafs or just a new leaf pack, shocks to match the lift, and plan to do a locker, or locking rear end way later.

First question, what offset should I go with to make the tires poke out from the fenders an inch or so? According to the tire size chart on here, I can clear 31x10.5's with no lift. Am I going to have rubbing problems with the larger 31x10.5s combined with offset wheels? With or without lift?

Second, what the hell is up with torsion keys? I don't understand the point, even after researching. A lot of conflicting information.

Third, how brutal will it be on my front with a TT/keys combined with offset wheels? I don't plan on doing anything real extreme, just trying to make it to the firepit with the rest of my buddies.

Fourth, what would be the best shocks to match the approximately 2 inches of lift I will get from leafs and tt?

Fifth, The locker I don't know much about. Does having one require just buying a new rear end altogether? Is it something just installed on my existing rear end? And is it a switch that can be wired up, or a manual thing? Forgive my ignorance, I'm sure some of this is laughable. Any help is appreciated.

Here she is, low front end and all. I know, I don't get it either.
image.jpg


I saw in another thread a guy had an Ex just like mine. His wheel were -21 offset. I'm currently look at these tires and wheels with a -51 offset, for 1178 bucks with shipping.

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Don't even worry about replacing the keys; just do the basic TT. Since you don't have 4wd, you can crank it more due to the lack of cv joints.

The offset of your new wheels shouldn't put any extreme stress on your front end with the TT. Just make sure you get a proper alignment. You might have to get some cam bolts to replace the factory ones on the upper control arms in order to get it right. The last thing you want is to unevenly wear out your fresh tires due to poor alignment.

As for shocks, you can spend a lot to get some designed for lifted vehicles, or you can spend much less for factory sized shocks. When you do a TT, the total possible amount of wheel travel will be the same as if you didn't do a TT. The TT just makes the preload on the spring higher, allowing the truck to sit higher, but have less down travel. So stock sized shocks up front are perfectly fine. In the rear, check out Monroe's Sensatrac Load Adjusting shocks. They are sold in pairs, inexpensive (~$90), and have a spring coil to help with taking heavier loads. If you are just looking to get around easy/moderate trails, you probably don't need to spend the extra cash people spend on parts for their Moab rock crawlers or desert prerunners.

What kind of gearing do you have in the back? With 31s, you'll probably want at least 3.73 gears. A factory limited slip diff should be enough for most situations. If you really wanted to go all out though, you can get an aftermarket air or e-locker. I don't think those options would be worth it though considering you will still only have 2wd, and they cost a lot. There are a few companies (Aussie lockers, Powertrax, Detroit Locker, etc...) that make auto lockers for both open and LS Ford 8.8 diffs. These are cheaper than air/e-lockers, but less desirable for daily driver/pavement use (and you will wear out your rear tires quicker if you don't rotate them often). Unlike the expensive air/e-lockers, auto lockers are always on, with no way to turn them off. Because of this, some of them will click as you turn to release pressure and resist binding/winding up of your gears.

With 2wd, momentum, choosing the proper line, and throttle control are your friends. See how it does with decent tires first, then see what will be necessary to add. The lift and shocks should be cheap enough to not worry about, but I'd hold off on a locker. A winch and mount may be a better way to spend your money if you are worried about getting stuck.
 












Awesome, thanks a bunch guys! And yeah, I think I would rather just get a winch haha.

As for the front shocks, what youre saying is I wont get any more down travel from having shocks that are for a lifted front end?

As for the gearing, I'm not really sure. This is the second 2000 sport ive had, and I can only really say this about the gearing; My first one turned about 2300
RPM's at 75-80 mph,( I drive like an ####### sometimes), and the one I have now seems to have more acceleration and I'm turning about 2700-3000 RPM's at 75-80 mph. Not sure if that tells you anything, gear ratios are something I don't know too much about. I love the one I have now, but good Lord does it eat up gas and is quick to jump up to 5500 RPM's when I'm just trying to give it a little bit extra to pass some one. Its quick, all things considered. Trying not to run the dogshit out of it.

And what kind of rearend does a 2000 Explorer Sport have stock? Is it limited slip? I know I get a wicked "one tire-fire" when I cut the wheel and stomp it. But if it was limited slip it would eventually catch and force both rear wheels to turn correct? Again, forgive my ignorance, I'm not too knowledgeable of rearend stuff.

Ok, I thought of something else as well. As far as the rear end lift goes, I really would like to just put new leafs under it. Can anyone direct me to a new leaf pack that is the 2-2.5in lift? And which is a more "solid" option as far as the rear end goes? New leafs/4dr leafs, or shackles?

And what are these cam bolts you speak of an where might I find them?
 






As for the front shocks, what youre saying is I wont get any more down travel from having shocks that are for a lifted front end?

Correct. Wheel travel is restricted to the same distance based on the T-bars and control arms. Let's say for example your suspension can travel 12 inches total (from the top-most and bottom-most point). Without a TT, the weight of the truck will make the suspension compress 6 inches. this leaves 6 inches left for up and down travel. With a TT, your truck will compress 3 inches, leaving you with 3 inches down travel, and 9 up. This is just a crude example, but you should get the idea. If you want more articulation capability, you need to do more serious mods.

As for the gearing, I'm not really sure. This is the second 2000 sport ive had, and I can only really say this about the gearing; My first one turned about 2300
RPM's at 75-80 mph,( I drive like an ####### sometimes), and the one I have now seems to have more acceleration and I'm turning about 2700-3000 RPM's at 75-80 mph. Not sure if that tells you anything, gear ratios are something I don't know too much about. I love the one I have now, but good Lord does it eat up gas and is quick to jump up to 5500 RPM's when I'm just trying to give it a little bit extra to pass some one. Its quick, all things considered. Trying not to run the dogshit out of it.

And what kind of rearend does a 2000 Explorer Sport have stock? Is it limited slip? I know I get a wicked "one tire-fire" when I cut the wheel and stomp it. But if it was limited slip it would eventually catch and force both rear wheels to turn correct? Again, forgive my ignorance, I'm not too knowledgeable of rearend stuff.

Check the inside of the driver's door and look for the axle code. Use that code and check it with what is on this chart. http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/Axle.htm. That will tell you what kind of differential you have back there.

Ok, I thought of something else as well. As far as the rear end lift goes, I really would like to just put new leafs under it. Can anyone direct me to a new leaf pack that is the 2-2.5in lift? And which is a more "solid" option as far as the rear end goes? New leafs/4dr leafs, or shackles?

Different people will recommend different options. Replacing the stock rear shackles will give you a slight lift, but some say they can make the ride more unstable. I have Warrior 153 shackles on my 4 door, and never felt unstable. Since you have a Sport, you can try and find a 4 door Ex (since these srings are meant to carry a higher weight) at the junk yard that doesn't have rear end sag and use those springs. With this option, you may find that it will start to sag again over time since the springs are old and prone to the same problems as your current ones. By the time 4 door springs succumb to the Sport's weight, it'll probably be time for a new truck. Another option would be an Add-a-Leaf. This will raise the back, but also make the ride more firm.

Each option has its pros and cons, and has been done plenty of times by members here. So just do some research and pick the one (or 2) that you think will suit you best.

And what are these cam bolts you speak of an where might I find them?

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80065-Cam-Bolt-Kit/dp/B000C59Z68
Generally, when you replace the upper ball joints/control arms, you will want to upgrade to these bolts or something similar. They allow for more adjustment as far as aligning goes compared to the factory bolts. When you do a TT, you will alter the alignment, and these bolts will make it easier to get aligned properly.
 






Well I have the 46 for my axel code. So according to the chart, I have 3.73 gears. But it is an open differential, which sucks right? Limited slip would be ideal as eventually both wheels would pull, where as with mine I just have what my friends and I affectionately refer to as "one tire fire". Correct?
 






Well I have the 46 for my axle code. So according to the chart, I have 3.73 gears. But it is an open differential, which sucks right? Limited slip would be ideal as eventually both wheels would pull, where as with mine I just have what my friends and I affectionately refer to as "one tire fire". Correct?

Correct. With the open diff, power will go to the wheel with the least resistance. The LS would allow the power to split a little bit between both wheels, allowing you to get out of some situations.
 






Uggggggg when things finally going right for once.....

Well what can I do about a rear end? Junk yard and find the one with 3.73 gears and LS?
 






You could do that. The factory LS isn't great (I am 2wd with 3.73 LS), but it is better than open. Since you're sizing up your tires, It might be worth it to look for the 4.10 LS diff to swap in there.

On the plus side for you and your open diff, you can look into an Aussie Locker if you are serious about getting offroad. Like I mentioned above, it is an auto-locker, not air or electric; so you'd have to weigh the pros and cons.

Pros:
Probably the least expensive locker option
Actual locked rear end (unlike the LS)
A lot of resources on how to install

Cons:
Probably more expensive than a junk yard LS
Clicking noise when making turns on pavement (some say it is noticeable, others say they can't hear it)
Might have to alter your driving style to avoid kicking out the rear end and wearing tires down prematurely

There are probably other things to consider too, but those are the main ones I could come up with. What kind of offroading were you hoping to do?
 






Well, as much as I love my old explorer, its just an old 2wd highway vehicle. Even with gears, tires, lift, and all that, its not really meant for "off road". What I'm trying to do is just a cheap way for me to make it through some mud holes on the way back to the fire pit in my area. I cant go too crazy, I really don't want to because its still my daily driver. Still worried about ruts and thing like that and just want to be as modest as possible with my off roading. Just some rough rutted or muddy roads in the woods. No crawling, nothing extreme. I'm probably going to get a come along to get me out of dumb decisions. Not going to sit there and spin the tires and rev the motor. On the bright side, my dad who is a retired Senior Master Tech for Ford for 20 years, told me that if I hit a mudhole that's a little extra rough, he told me to keep the gas steady and ever so slightly tap the brake pedal and both wheels should start to pull, if the truck is level enough. Which I thought was pretty interesting. I think I might actually put some money into some pretty good shocks to help the truck hopefully ride less like dogshit and maybe perform a little better when needed. I hate having to blow through mud or hit stuff that's bumpy and jar my truck (and myself) around. But i guess that will get better with experience in picking a good line. As for the gears, I honestly think I will just find a limited slip rear end. I don't think I like the idea of the full time locker.
 






Good plan. While you are out looking for a LSD, try and find a fuel tank skid plate too. I'm not sure if all 2wd's didn't come with them, but mine didn't. It will be worth it knowing that a stubborn stick can't poke a hole in your tank.
 






I agree with all the great advice given by Glacier. A locker will make a world of difference, but opinions differ on whether or not its good for a daily driver. A limited-slip will give you pretty much the best of both worlds, save for extreme off-roading which you said wouldn't be an issue. If you do a junkyard search for an LS axle, make sure you get one with the lowest mileage. After so many miles or depending on use, the clutches and other gizmos inside can wear down, rendering the limited slip pretty much useless.

My 2WD didn't come with a skidplate either, but its a fairly cheap and easy mod to do, even if your truck doesn't see much mud.
 






Well thanks for all the tips and help fellas. I may bump this thread again at some point if I happen to come up with any more questions. You guys sure are helpful. Thanks again.
 






Well, as much as I love my old explorer, its just an old 2wd highway vehicle. Even with gears, tires, lift, and all that, its not really meant for "off road". What I'm trying to do is just a cheap way for me to make it through some mud holes on the way back to the fire pit in my area. I cant go too crazy, I really don't want to because its still my daily driver. Still worried about ruts and thing like that and just want to be as modest as possible with my off roading. Just some rough rutted or muddy roads in the woods. No crawling, nothing extreme. I'm probably going to get a come along to get me out of dumb decisions. Not going to sit there and spin the tires and rev the motor. On the bright side, my dad who is a retired Senior Master Tech for Ford for 20 years, told me that if I hit a mudhole that's a little extra rough, he told me to keep the gas steady and ever so slightly tap the brake pedal and both wheels should start to pull, if the truck is level enough. Which I thought was pretty interesting. I think I might actually put some money into some pretty good shocks to help the truck hopefully ride less like dogshit and maybe perform a little better when needed. I hate having to blow through mud or hit stuff that's bumpy and jar my truck (and myself) around. But i guess that will get better with experience in picking a good line. As for the gears, I honestly think I will just find a limited slip rear end. I don't think I like the idea of the full time locker.


its the parking brake you use for that. light pressure on the parking brake will slow the spinning wheel and transfer some power over to the non-spinning wheel.
hitting the regular brake will add resistance to the front wheels and just keep you stuck.
 






oh ok good to know. I may have misheard.


Ok so I'm trying to straighten out a few aesthetic things in the mean time, such as this piece right here. Can anyone tell me what you call this so I can google and see if I can find it or do I need to just snatch one from the junkyard? Id rather get a new one if available. But its hard searching for something you have no idea what the name is. Not my Ex, very nice to whoever. But its this piece between the fender flare or and the rocker panel? Not quite sure of the exact name. But its been missing on mine since I got it, knocked off from a flat tire from the previous owner I presume.

25481170001_large.jpg
 






Well pull-a-part it is.

Anyways, Ive found some 4in spindles for the front end and I would rather do that and not have my truck ride complete crap. So I'm still going to put 4dr Ex leafs under the rear, and what else to get 4 inches? Shackles? Id rather not do just blocks. And as far as shocks go, what are some nice shocks that are made for 4 inches of lift? and are 33x12.5 tires going to make my truck really swampy with 3.73 gears? I'm going to be driving it a lot slower to be careful since it will be lifted, but will it be really slow?
 






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