'00 Sport dies on startup, idles at 200 rpm...MAF problem? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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'00 Sport dies on startup, idles at 200 rpm...MAF problem?

MizzouSport

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Joined
October 9, 2003
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City, State
Missouri
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Sport
Recently my '00 Sport has been dying on startup. If I gas it when I start, it'll get going, but as soon as I let off it'll idle at ~200 rpms or just die again. This doesn't happen every time, but has been happening more frequently. The check engine light is NOT on, and I've tried different carb cleaners, fuel injector cleaners, water removers, and octane levels when I gas it up. From what I've read it sounds like the Mass Air Flow sensor may need cleaning, but I'm no expert. Anybody have any other ideas, or advice for cleaning the MAF?
 



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Try cleaning it just because it never hurts

I can't see it actually ideling at 200 RPM (when mine gets that low all the guages hit zero then the engine recovers and they come right back up. Turn the air off when you start it, that should help. If it is like mine, it starts just fine, idles way up just fine like it should, then, it kind of slowly idles back down but goes to far down and dies. ¿Have I put your problem in my own words? Well, it is because mine does the same thing, tune up, (minus fuel filter) clean MAF. ¿What is the problem) IAC valve (if you take off that cover over the Air Plentum (the one that says 4.0 SOHC) You will see, right smack dab in the center this cylinder shaped thing that un screws and un plugs from the air plenum. That is you IAC valve. Those things are known for going out in these explorers. You can try cleaning the fool out of it, but it probably won't work or if it does it will only work for a while. Clean your Throttle Body (front and back) out real good *Note, you will notice that when you clean all this stuff out, the dieing motor will get worse for a few hours until all that carb cleaner vapor is gone. Anyways, sounds like the IAC valve is your culprate. If you start it with the A/C and Defroster off, you should be fine until you change it out.
 






It's your IAC. I had the same problem so I replaced that.
 












My friends 01 Sport was doing the same thing. We pulled the IAC and cleaned it with air intake cleaner/toothbrush/paper towel during half time of the VT-Rutgers game and had it back on before kick off. Truck starts/runs fine now. Before that, he had to drive with 2 feet to keep it running.

Go Tigers.. both my parents are Mizzou alum.
 






Tried it tonight...

I took the IAC valve off tonight and it was black inside. I cleaned it with some carb cleaner, brushes and rags, and did as well as I could considering that the spring on the inside traps a lot of grit. I put it back on and it seemed to start fine, although it was hit-or-miss before, so it could have just been a lucky couple starts. I'm gonna wait about 4 or 5 days before I give a final assessment, but so far it looks like it did the trick. Thanks for the advice!!!
 






Hate to burst your buble

It probably didn't work. (It didn't on mine.) the simple truth is you are going to have to break down and buy one. I have been told by some that this can sometimes be a tempoarary fix but it will need replacing. It didn't help much with mine. But, at least now you know all your stuff is clean :D At least now to your list of mods you can add the bling bling on the inside :D:D:D:D HA J/K
 






His was black on the inside too... and if it only fixes it for a while, oh well, atleast you did the low cost option first
 






Yeah, it's only a temporary fix. I cleaned it and it only worked for about 2 weeks. After that, I took it out and cleaned it again, it didn't work at all so I finally broke down and ordered a new one. For $61 including shipping, it's a great deal!
 






My '94 does the same thing. I cleaned the MAF, but that didn't seem to help. I did a tune-up including having the injectors cleaned by a local shop and that didn't help either. The next thing that I'm going to check is the IAC.

The AIC allows air to bypass the thottle plate in order to maintain proper idle speed.

Here's how Chilton says to test the IAC:

1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
2) Disconnect wiring connector from IAC.
3) Measure IAC terminal resistance using an ohmmeter (there is a diode in the IAC, so if you don't get a reading, reverse the ohmmeter leads).
4) The resistance should be 7-13 ohms. If not, replace the IAC.

I hope that this helps.
 






Also make sure you disconnect the battery for about 10-15 minutes so the computer can re-learn its idle.
 






Hey

¿Should I have disconected the Bat. cable when I just cleaned the IAC?
 






I had my batt disconnected when I was cleaning the IAC...maybe it'll make a difference. I think I'll be prepared to just replace it though - where can I find a new one online? Nobody seems to carry them for Explorers. I heard that if you didn't replace it with a Motocraft IAC it didn't idle as well - anybody else have that happen? Send me some links for online IACs plz!
 






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