00m12 Fix information.. (gaskets) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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00m12 Fix information.. (gaskets)

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gensic11

Ok I have done a lot of search on this matter and realize my Idle problem (after sitting in cold weather for a long period of time) seems to be leaky o-rings for the intake gaskets. I don't know anything about these and I am pretty good with my hands so when I saw the write-up I figured I could do it myself. Anyway I went to autozone (i saw on the posts where autozone had the 00m12 kit I needed) but when I went there they had no clue what I was talking about. Can anyone give me any detailed information on what the kit part number is.. or what I really need to fix this problem? I called ford and they said the labor on fixing the upper/lower intake gaskets was around $200.12, which seemed decent, but then sent me to parts and parts were around 100$... I saw on your posts this package shouldn't cost more than 10-15$ at an auto parts store.. so I figure If i set some time aside I should be able to do this myself for cheap. I have plenty of time due to it being x-mas break so if you guys could get me information on where to get this replacement kit i would be very greatful.. thanks a lot for any info!

Josh
 



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OVERVIEW
While performing this procedure the technician will install a:

^ New upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.

^ New cam chain tensioner and washer.

^ Volume reduction plug into the left cylinder head oil galley.

^ New oil galley plug.


IMPORTANT TIME SAVING REPAIR TIPS

^ Always use a hand impact driver with a short extension when loosening the oil galley plug. Be sure the T-30 Torx(R) bit is in good condition, and that there is no foreign material inside the plug which would prevent the bit from fully seating. The plug may be seized on some higher mileage vehicles, and not seating the bit may cause the bit to damage the plug.

^ Before removing the engine coolant temperature sensor, relieve any residual cooling system pressure by removing the radiator cap and then reinstalling it. Doing this will allow you to remove the sensor without having to drain the cooling system.

^ During assembly, DO NOT use any silicone products as they may cause damage to the oxygen sensors.

^ Allow the engine and cooling system to cool down prior to beginning this repair.


Question -- Are these procedures the same as related procedures found in TSBs or in the Workshop Manual?

Answer -- No. If you follow the procedures in this set of instructions, you will not need to disconnect the battery or install a memory saver, or drain and refill the cooling system. Also, this procedure involves removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds to replace the gaskets. Once the manifolds and the ECT are removed, the oil galley plug and the cam tensioner are easily accessed.

LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

1. Remove the accelerator control splash shield.

2. Disconnect the speed control and accelerator cables from the throttle body control lever and the upper intake manifold.

3. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.

4. Disconnect the fresh air tubes from the air cleaner outlet tube, then remove the air cleaner outlet tube.

5. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve and the throttle position (TP) sensor.

6. Disconnect the following vacuum hoses: See Figures 1 and 2.

^ Brake booster.

^ Intake manifold tuning valve (IMTV) servo, if equipped.

^ Right side upper intake vacuum supply (two hoses).

^ PCV valve.


7. Remove the fasteners securing the EVR/VIS solenoid bracket. It is not necessary to disconnect the solenoids. Refer to Figure 2.

8. Remove the upper intake manifold screws.

9. Lift up the upper intake manifold to access the vapor management valve (VMV) hoses. Remove the locking clips and disconnect the right and left VMV hoses. See Figure 3.

10. Remove the upper intake manifold by carefully sliding the manifold off of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) tube. See Figure 3.

11. If equipped, position the engine vacuum reservoir aside. See Figure 4.

12. Remove the lower intake manifold. See Figure 4.

CAUTION: The intake ports of the cylinder heads must be covered to avoid any foreign material from entering the engine.

13. Clean all foreign material from the intake manifold/cylinder head area, then cover the cylinder head ports with clean shop towels.


VOLUME REDUCTION PLUG AND CAM CHAIN TENSIONER REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor and the engine coolant temperature sender. Position the wiring harness connectors away from the oil galley plug area. See Figure 5.

CAUTION: Damage to the oil galley plug will occur if the Torx(R) bit is not fully seated. Use a hand impact driver and an extension, striking the driver firmly, to loosen the plug.

2. Remove the oil galley plug. See Figure 5.

3. Install the volume reduction plug into the oil galley. See Figure 6.

CAUTION: The new oil galley plug comes pre-encapsulated with sealant. Do not apply additional sealant to the plug.

4. Install the new oil galley plug. Tighten the plug until it is flush with the face of the cylinder head.

NOTE: Failure to remove then reinstall the radiator cap may result in coolant draining when the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is removed.

5. Remove, then reinstall, the radiator cap.

6. Remove the ECT sensor only. See Figure 5.

7. Remove and discard the left cam chain tensioner and washer. See Figure 5.

8. Install the new cam chain tensioner and washer. Tighten the tensioner to 44 Nm (32 lb-ft). See Figure 7.

9. Install and connect the ECT sensor. Tighten the sensor to 15 Nm (132 lb-in).

10. Connect the coolant temperature sender.


LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD -- INSTALLATION

1. Remove the old gaskets from the lower intake manifold. Clean the manifold gasket mating surfaces. Remove the shop towels from the cylinder heads and clean the gasket mating surfaces.

2. Install new lower intake manifold gaskets, making sure they are correctly seated.

3. Install the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 18 Nm (13 lb-ft).

4. Install the engine vacuum reservoir, if equipped.

5. Install the locking clips onto the right and left VMV hose connectors.

6. Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets.

CAUTION: When installing the upper intake manifold, be sure that all vacuum lines are positioned back to avoid pinching them under the manifold.

CAUTION: DO Not use any silicone-based lubricants on the EGR tube 0-ring.

NOTE: Using Penetrating and Lock Lubricant, E8AZ-19A501-B or equivalent non-silicone-based lubricant, lightly lubricate the EGR tube 0-ring to allow for easier installation of the upper intake manifold.

7. Position the upper intake manifold carefully, slide the manifold onto the EGR tube and connect both right and left VMV hoses. Also, be sure to route the IAC valve connector into position.

8. Install the upper intake manifold screws. Tighten the screws to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).

9. Connect the IAC valve and TPS connector.

10. Install the EVR/VIS solenoid bracket. Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (26 lb-in).

11. Connect the following vacuum hoses:

^ Brake booster.

^ Intake manifold tuning valve (IMTV) servo, if equipped.

^ Right side upper intake vacuum supply (two hoses).

^ PCV valve.


12. Install the air cleaner outlet tube, and connect the fresh air tubes and IAT sensor.

13. Correctly route and secure the accelerator and speed control cables. Tighten the screws to 3 Nm (26 lb-in).

14. Install the accelerator control splash shield.

15. Start the engine and check for correct operation. Check and top off the cooling system as needed.


Sorry for the lack of pictures. This vBulletin doesn't have a provision for uploading pics. :thumbdwn:
 






WOW

Where did you get this wealth of very valuable information ?
 






I own an auto repair shop and subscribe to various info. services.
 






cool,
good to have some one of your knowledge and resources around here.

Thank you very much.
 






You're an Admin here? The vBulletin won't accept the pictures with the articles. I'm using the older version of vBulletin and it allows us to post up just about any pic.

Any ideas?
 






I am just a moderator, I dont know **** about computers and junk like that.

PM Rick or Blee
 






To post pics directly you need to become an elite member. Otherwise you can post links to the pics if they are on a web server.
 






Howard said:
To post pics directly you need to become an elite member. Otherwise you can post links to the pics if they are on a web server.

I gotta pay 20 bucks to post tech pics and diagrams? Pass.....
 






there are MANY other bennifits to being Elite,,,
 






Yeah, things like, helping to keep the site running... Bigger PM box, huge storage space for your pics... access to extra forums...
 






the oom12 kit should only cost about 50 dollars from Ford. I recently did the fix and it went flawlessly. Runs great now. the Kit from Ford has the everthing you need, but its recommended you spend a couple extra bucks for a copper washer for the timing chain tensioner.
 












how hard would you guys say the fix was? i plan on doing this myself.. i'm no mechanic but pretty good with following directions and being very careful.. just curious if it's really a job i can take on myself.. i've done small engine work but nothing like this
 






I would say that it is well within your capabilities. Its a very straight forward job if you just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. At the end of the day the job involves taking out 28 bolts including the tensioner and 5 parts. And replacing 8 gaskets and 1 plug and the tensioner. I did mine in about 2 hours but I do all my own maintenance. So allow a whole day so that you can take your time.
 






yeah it was easy, just the follow the instructions and like Howard said, give yourself plenty of time and dont rush it. g'luck with that.
 






sparky2263 said:
I gotta pay 20 bucks to post tech pics and diagrams? Pass.....

No actually we ask that people pay the $20 to help defray the ever rising costs of running this website that Rick, the owner, pays out of his own pocket because he enjoys hosting the site. Being able to post pictures and the other things Heath listed are simply thank-yous we give out to the members that decide to contribute.

Don't want to pay the $20? Thats fine all the rest of us that have paid will just keep footing the bills here for your enjoyment.
 






About the 20$.. I think he just had the wrong idea. To me, it seemed he was thinking it was going to cost him 20$ for the ability to be informative and provide helpful pictures along with his posts. I doubt he's even looking at this thread anymore to be honest... but if he is, everyone is right.. there are very nice benefits to becoming elite, but most importantly it helps contribute to the site so it can stay running so informative people like you, and many others, can keep on helping all of us who have so many problems ;)

cheers
 



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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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Stephen said:
No actually we ask that people pay the $20 to help defray the ever rising costs of running this website that Rick, the owner, pays out of his own pocket because he enjoys hosting the site. Being able to post pictures and the other things Heath listed are simply thank-yous we give out to the members that decide to contribute.

Don't want to pay the $20? Thats fine all the rest of us that have paid will just keep footing the bills here for your enjoyment.
Stephen
Sparky has I believe posted some very important and much needed info for the members of this site.
Maybe with a members help he could link the pics from elsewhere, maybe he could be given a one day dispensation to post pics, maybe he has not 20 bux to spare.
I think what he has to post is important, educational, and worth to this site alot more than 20 bux, JMO
My Edit: as Monmix said: is a wealth of very valuable info
 






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