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01 sport - 4.0 SOHC STS turbo charged (Project complete)

4.0 SOHC turbo charger project

Guys - I'm done....well, almost (you know how that goes)

I've drove the truck around today very safely and all I can say is wow...I love this and I'm very glad I did it. I'll have to say I went thru a lot to get this far and lost a few buddies along the way. :(

I'm gonna try like heck to get you guys some videos soon but right now I need to chill cuss my wife is pissed. I've been working on this truck when I should be working on the house, but oh well. blah blah blah.


I've got the boost at around 5 LBS and that's where it's gonna stay until I can get the MAF, injectors, and fuel pump in. Oh yeah, I'm running the 73MM C&L housing and stock injectors and pump. Anyways, I'll be changing those out and tuning the thing out pretty soon - I can then take her to the track and see what happens.....

This is what I've been wanting for two years now so I'm a little excited that it's here now. Not trying to make a drama thread here but I'm happy to join James in the STS 4.0 SOHC circle. Now let me see if I can out run him? :p:
 



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Lol
 



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I've been seriously considering a manual tranny swap when this one goes. How about a tr6060 swap? There's an adaptor being sold by a mustang guru for the 4.0 SOHC. The deal is this adaptor is made to bolt on the tr6060 from a 4.6 bell housing which has me thinking about something; if the adaptor goes from a 4.6 bell housing to a 4.0 sohc then what are the chances of this working for the 4r70w? I realize there is more to the swap if the auto is used like the convertor and such but it's one of those things that make you think.
 






A manual would be fun, but an auto that's setup properly would yeild better times because you can't shift as fast manually. The TR6060 is what's in the new GT500's correct?(I think a viper and vette as well?) What about the manuals that already come in the sports? Are they capable of being built up to handle extra power?
 






Yes, the tremek TR6060 comes in all the cars you mentioned. I think the manuals that come with the sport would land me in the same place I'm in now; I wouldn't know for sure if it would hold or not.

The good thing about the manual is even though I couldn't shift as fast it would give me more power to the back wheels. I think I remember reading the the auto eats up around 21% from the engine to the rear and the manuals usually eat up around 15%???:dunno: Also, I could two step off the line!

The bad thing is the Tr6060 is a 6 speed (I believe) and would have to swap gears to around 4:11 to get me where I need to be.

I do love manuals and it's been a LONG time since I've had one. Hmmmm

ANd if I ever want to go 500 plus HP I could swap in a 4.6 and get rid of the adaptor.
 






I just got around to getting the back wheels and tires on the truck. All I can say is these wheels and tires will never see the track; they weigh a TON!!! It'll make a good street set-up like I originally intended but I really didn't think they would be this heavy. I also think the tire shop used the wrong kind of air.

Other than that, the engine is back apart. I'm having the valve covers, all engine brackets, and the cold side of the turbo system powder coated. I'm continuing on with the looks of the truck and it's starting too look half way decent again.

When I took the cold side apart, I found a little oil in the intercooler AGAIN. I’ll be trying a different way to my oil return system (going back into the pan so I don’t have a steap incline to pump the oil). Also I’m going to re-clock the turbo a different way to see if maybe draining is the problem. What ever the problem is, it’s small but just enough to piss me off.
 






I just got around to getting the back wheels and tires on the truck. All I can say is these wheels and tires will never see the track; they weigh a TON!!! It'll make a good street set-up like I originally intended but I really didn't think they would be this heavy. I also think the tire shop used the wrong kind of air.

Other than that, the engine is back apart. I'm having the valve covers, all engine brackets, and the cold side of the turbo system powder coated. I'm continuing on with the looks of the truck and it's starting too look half way decent again.

When I took the cold side apart, I found a little oil in the intercooler AGAIN. I’ll be trying a different way to my oil return system (going back into the pan so I don’t have a steap incline to pump the oil). Also I’m going to re-clock the turbo a different way to see if maybe draining is the problem. What ever the problem is, it’s small but just enough to piss me off.

Yeah it's a bit of a rude awakening the first time you lift one of those things. It's only an inch taller than the stock tires why on earth does it way twice as much:( But I think it's a worthwhile sacrifice for the extra performance on the street.
 






The wheels vary a ton in weights, depending on how it was made. The tires are almost twice as heavy as the wheels, they get close to 40 pounds if the series is tall and wide.
 






It does look 10 times better.
 












well then post up some pictures and what tires you chose so we can see for ourselves


I'll put that on my to do list for tomorrow. I did choose the brand tire you run - thanks for the suggestion.
 












I THINK the st 2 but I'll have to look again.
 






New wheels - dirty truck

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Hey, those look pretty good!



Thanks Jon. Just don't try and lift them with your back or you'll be in bed for three days. ;)
 












These are 295-45-18's. They fit perfect and I could have gone wider but didn't want to chance it. I haven't driven the truck yet but they look good - way better than the stockers.

I have a feeling the spinning problem on the street is now fixed. If the wider tires don't help, then the weight will. Then again, maybe I'm making a huge deal about the weight, and performance will not be affected greatly. There’s only one way to find out. ;)


The fronts are still not on because I have to figure which route to go.

1) Bore out the smallest part of the wheel and have new center caps made. (not the hub centric part of the wheel; they do fit here)

2) Spacer..............yuck!
 






These are 295-45-18's. They fit perfect and I could have gone wider but didn't want to chance it. I haven't driven the truck yet but they look good - way better than the stockers.

I have a feeling the spinning problem on the street is now fixed. If the wider tires don't help, then the weight will. Then again, maybe I'm making a huge deal about the weight, and performance will not be affected greatly. There’s only one way to find out. ;)


The fronts are still not on because I have to figure which route to go.

1) Bore out the smallest part of the wheel and have new center caps made. (not the hub centric part of the wheel; they do fit here)

2) Spacer..............yuck!

Did you go with the 295's in the front too? Also have you lowered it at all? Theres a lot of extra wheel well there I think a 2" drop would help it a lot, and improve the handling too.
 






That does look good, let us know how the fit is, and how you like the handling and ride.
 



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No, not on the front. I'm going with 255-50-18's on the front (I think)

I'm lowered 1" all the way around. I was 2" but raised it back up. It does look like I need to go back down now...

The fit was good with the 10" rims and 295-45-18's in the back. I could have gone wider because there's clearance there - my guess is around 2-3" still. Once I drive it I'll let everyone know if there’s any problem although I don't think there will be. I have the x-spec sway bar and there are little clamps that come with the kit. When I first purchased the kit I had no Idea what the little clamps were for but now I think I know. My guess is it's to keep the rear end from moving side to side during a sharp curve. Make sense? What that means to me is you can go with a wider tire and not have to worry about it hitting the frame during curves. However, I would still want atleast 2" of clearace.
 






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