02 rear axle seal problems | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

02 rear axle seal problems

tomgeorge2000

New Member
Joined
July 29, 2006
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
City, State
Cincinnati Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Eddie Bauer 2wd
Hi All,

I have an '02 explorer V6 2wd, 63000 miles. I noticed that the right side axle seal on the IRS is leaking a good amount. Called the dealer and they quoted me $300 to have them both replaced. I have a few questions I am hoping can get answered here:

1. Any chance on getting ford to pay for this? 63k miles is awful low for a seal to go bad if you ask me. I noticed there is a TSB #16806 out there but I cannot read the details. If anyone can access this I would appreciate it!

2. Is this a sign of worse things to come? I am worried I am going to get the dreaded rear axle while/differential failure that I hear so much about.

3. How tough of a job is this to do myself and do I need any special tools? I have replaced ring and pinions back in my days of being a gearhead and building fast cars so I am no stranger to turning wrenches.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Tom
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Tom

Don't know if Ford will fix this on their $ but they definitely know there's a problem so it can't hurt to ask. The good news is the newest seal looks like it should last- it's both an oil seal and dust shield in one part and it's self-protected against getting torn when an axle is reinstalled. It's also something like $32 vs. maybe $6 for the old one. The Ford differential oil is $33 a quart- it takes about 1 1/2 quarts (not the 3 or so your manual probably says). $300 total doesn't seem bad IF it includes the new design seals and the $$$ 75W140 synthethic gear oil. (Relatively speaking, that is-having to spend anything to keep any car with less than 100k miles from leaking it's vital fluids is bs.)

I had both seals replaced twice and the bearings once under warranty. At ~60k miles I had another seal leak, also possibly leaking from the cover. I replaced the seals myself, but removed the whole differential housing since I wanted to open the case and have a look and I wanted to install a real gasket (there's a Fel-Pro one available)for the cover. All the bearings were fine and the ring and pinion looked brand new.

The bad news is if you go to the trouble of doing this yourself there's a few gotchas:
-Prying the axles without the right tool or a homemade substitute is impossible
-Driving the new seals with the differential in place essentially requires a special tool so you can hammer from outside the "footprint" of the car
-You have to break loose the upper ball joint and a lower link on each side to be able to swing the knuckle enough to remove each axle from the differential housing

Also:
-You really can't refill the differential without at least a cheap hand pump
- I spent almost 8 hours over two days to do this (but was happy to get a clean bill of health on the diff for my effort)

If you have any ???s, feel free to e-mail me. I'm new to this forum and might not check back for a few days. (I came looking for tips on fixing my backup sensor system)

Hope this helps-
John
 






I can't find TSB 16806. This is the closest I could come up with.

TSB
05-15-5 LEAKS FROM REAR HALFSHAFT AXLE SEAL

Publication Date: July 13, 2005

FORD: 2002-2005 Explorer
2003-2005 Expedition
LINCOLN: 2003-2005 Aviator, Navigator
MERCURY: 2002-2005 Mountaineer


This article supersedes TSB 04-10-5 to update the vehicle lines, model years, Service Tips and labor operations.

ISSUE:
Some Expedition/Navigator vehicles built before 2/16/2005 and Explorer/Mountaineer, Aviator vehicles built before 3/18/2005, all equipped with the 8.8" or 9.75" ring gear and independent rear suspension (IRS), may exhibit leaks at the rear halfshaft axle seals. A new unitized seal is now available for service. The new seal design eliminates the need to use seal protectors during installation. Removal of the excluder seal (1L2W-1N013-BA) if present is required.

ACTION:
Order and install the new seal to correct leak condition. Review the Instruction Sheet included in the kit and obtain the required tools before beginning repair. Refer also to the following installation Service Tips.

INSTALLATION SERVICE TIPS

Refer to Workshop Manual Section 205-05 for half shaft removal and installation.

Use only the proper seal installation tool, Rotunda tool (206-034).
Ensure the seal installation tool is clean and free of debris prior to inserting into new seal. Do not use a damaged seal installation tool exhibiting nicks, burrs, or sharp edges.
NOTE: THE USE OF SEAL PROTECTOR 1L2W-4N206-AA IS NO LONGER REQUIRED.



Do not tap directly on the back of the seal installation tool, always tap on the handle, per Instruction Sheet. Seal should be driven evenly into housing bore with only enough force to seat in the bore.
Before installing the halfshaft, verify that the inboard excluder seal (1L2W-1N013-BA) is not present on the halfshaft. If the excluder seal is present, follow the kit Instruction Sheet and remove the excluder seal.
NOTE: OVERFILLING THE AXLE CAN INCREASE POTENTIAL FOR LEAKS. LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS CAN BE FOUND IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL.




PART NUMBER PART NAME
5L1Z-4A109-A Axle Seal Kit


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
051505A 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer 2003-2005 Aviator Replace One Rear Axle Seal (Do Not Use With 4139A, 4139AT, 4139A2, 4139A2T) 0.9 Hr.
051505A 2003-2005 Expedition/Navigator Replace One Rear Axle Seals (Do Not Use With 4139A, 4139AT, 4139A2, 4139A2T) 0.9 Hr.
051505B 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer 2003-2005 Aviator Replace Both Rear Axle Seal (Do Not Use With 4139A, 4139AT, 4139A2, 4139A2T ) 1.7 Hrs.
051505B 2003-2005 Expedition/Navigator Replace Both Rear Axle Seals (Do Not Use With 4139A, 4139AT, 4139A2, 4139A2T ) 1.5 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
4A109 42

SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 04/05/2005

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Halfshaft

Special Tool(s) Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent
Remover, Halfshaft
205-529
Adapter for 303-224 (Handle)
205-153 (T80T-4000-W)

Removal and Installation

NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04.
NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.

Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.

Remove the brake disc.
Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
Remove the brake disc.


Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.

CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.

Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
Remove the special tool.
Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.


CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.

CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.

NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.

Using the special tools, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.

CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Hope that helps!
 






Mine leaked at about the same mileage and the dealer charged me $300 to replace them. Make sure they give you a 12 month written warranty. They did for me and mine leaked again about 8 months later. They replaced them for free.

I've tinkered with cars all my life and after seeing what was involved, I decided it was too big a job for me and my monkey wrench. Just fork out the $300 and be done with it (hopefully).
 






I solved my rear end howling problems by buying a new differential on ebay. Here's the link to the one I got. I paid the dealership $300 plus tax to install it and fill with oil. This guy has some more of them listed in his ebay store. I made him an offer of $400 including shipping and he took it. It's a Brand New Ford factory part as far as I can tell.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074895050&category=33731
 






Thanks everyone for all the great replys and info. I argee with grumpy - too much for me.

I will shell out the $$'s and hope that this is a small bump in the road and not a sign of worse things to come (the dreaded rear end whine, more leaks, etc.)
Great idea about the warranty. I will make sure I do that.

Overall, the explorer has been good to us and this is the first problem, so I guess I shouldn't complain. I like to think that my Tacoma truck has been solid as a rock since I am at 188,000 and running strong, but if I think about it I have had problems with that too, such as starter, and a/c does not work.
 






Mine is leaking too @ almost 60K., enough that it drips and I see oil slung around the shaft.

Anybody replaced these seals on their own?

I've done CV half shafts before, so I'm familiar with the procedure, just a little worried about special tools.
 






Here's some stuff I copied off a repair CD that may give you an idea of what's involved.



«2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Table of Contents»
«Group 2: Chassis»
«Section 205-05: REAR DRIVE HALFSHAFTS»
«REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»


Halfshaft
Special Service Tool(s)

Protector, Differential Seal
205-506

Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent


Remover, Halfshaft
205-502


Removal and Installation

Note:
This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION:
Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to «Section 204-04».

µ 3. Note:
Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.

Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

µ 4. CAUTION:
To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.

Remove the brake disc.

1 Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.

n Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.

2 Remove the brake disc.

µ Refer to corresponding illustration.

µ 5. Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

µ 6. CAUTION:
Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

µ 7. WARNING:
The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

µ 8. CAUTION:
Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

µ 9. CAUTION:
Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.

CAUTION:
Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.

Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

1 Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.

2 Remove the special tool.

3 Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.

4 Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

µ Refer to corresponding illustration.

µ 10. CAUTION:
Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.

CAUTION:
Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.

Note:
A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.

Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

µ 11. CAUTION:
To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.

Install the special tool.

µ 12. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

µ 13. CAUTION:
To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle.

CAUTION:
Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.

CAUTION:
Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
 






Just looked in a HAYNES manual. It looks like their "special tool" to disengage the inboard CV from differential housing is a PUNCH and HAMMER.

I guess it woulld work, I'm just a little leary of hitting on the outer CV race with a hammer. The rest seems all standard procedure.
 






It's held in place by a circlip in the splines. If anyone knows of a better way than a hammer and punch or a dead-blow, I'm all ears.
 






I just don't like the thought of pounding on the CV joint race, expecially off center from the shaft. Seems like a high possiblity of damaged the CV. If I remember right, it seems last time I removed a inner CV from a transaxle I used two prybars close to the shaft on the first side and a dowel through the transaxle to tap out the opposite side, I don't think there is enouigh room under the X though.

Your the FORD guy, and if that's how they do it in the shop I guess it works.
 






I don't work in the shop, I just work for Ford. (Skilled Trades) In order to pop one out with a dowel, you'd have to remove the other side somehow first. It doesn't take a lot of force... just a sharp pop to get the circlip to compress into the threads. If you hit it parallel to the shaft, you're not going to bend the (approximately) 1" shaft and the joint housing is pretty rugged. Unless you start pounding on it with a baby sledge, it should be fine.

You could try a double-prybar, but you're also taking a chance at tearing up the axle seal too... pick your poison, y'know?

-Joe
 






My 02 has the same problem. The stealer replaced both seals three times along with the differential once. Guess what? Still leaks. Reading this thread I see there's a new type of seal used. Will make a trip over to the stealer and ask about this. Good info!!
 












This job sucks. Even with the right tools, I can't get the axle out. It's "frozen" to the spindle, and there is no way in hell I can get the inner CV out of the differential by laying on the ground with about a foot clearance and banging on it a 45.

I think I'm going to put it back together and take it to the dealer. If they break it, they can replace it. I'm going to get a written estimate first, and hopefully some type of warranty.


Any techs interested in NIB Ford axle seal installer (above?
 






I still have not done anything with my 02's seals. Not sure if I am paranoid because of everything that I am reading, but it sounds like I am getting a very very faint read end whine now as well. I am making sure that there is fluid in the diff.
I am tempted to just get rid of the thing.
 






It's done. Took it to dealer, $270 labor. No more worries.
 






ebay warning

Just a warning, if you try to get the rear end mentioned down in this thread from ebay, DON'T, I did and the damn thing looked new, but roars worse than the old one. I'm screwed!
 






Rear Axle Seal Problems

I have the problem on one side. Wiped the grease off and after about 2000 miles it is back, barely enough to drip once in a while. Other side is dry. Light whine from rear axle sometimes noticeable but not all the time. Is there an easy way to keep it full of grease and just monitor the leakage and noise - then take it in if it gets worse. 130k on the 04 Explorer XLT What about having both sides done or is it better to leave the good side as is.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I am going to attempt this.
Can anyone recommend which manual shows how to do this?
I can't visualize what is involved to remove the circlip that connects the diff to the half axle.
I have 75W-140, friction mod, and seals. What else do I need - new circlips and hub retainer nuts?

I have had some shoddy work done on cars so I'm leary about shucking out good money to the stealer. If there's any way that I can do this, I will give it a go.

Paul
 






Back
Top