'02 V6 Explorer with Many Electrical Problems

[Deleted member 139008]

There are a lot of things going on so I will try to be as brief as possible. I have a 2002 V6 Explorer and here are the things that are going wrong.
1. None of the power door locks work.
2. None of the key fob functions work.
3. The keyless entry keypad does not light and does not work.
4. When you turn off the ignition and remove the key, you are supposed to be able to listen to the stereo and power the windows up/down until you open any door, at which point, the stereo turns off and the power windows are supposed to quit working. But in this case, you can turn off the ignition, remove the key, open any door, and the stereo and windows continue to work.
5. The door-ajar indicator in the dash never appears when any door or hatch is opened.
6. When you open any door or hatch, the dome lights never come on.
7. There is/was a power drain on the battery when everything was shut off.

I have read many threads on these types of problems. Many of them point to a broken wire in the driver-side door or in the boot that goes from the door to the body but I have not found any break(s) yet.
The power drain on the battery was eliminated when I disconnected the small C3008c plug from the Central Security Module (CSM).
I have tested many of the inputs to the CSM. Here are some of the gory details of some of the interesting tests. (In these details, when I say "NI", I mean, "no input", meaning, my fingers are off the buttons, I am not pressing anything.)
1. All keyless entry buttons: NI: 11.43V; Pressed: 0.9V - 1.6V
2. Door lock relay - NI: 11.42V; unlock: 10.76V; lock: 0.01V
3. Door unlock relay - NI: 11.42V; unlock: 0.01V; lock: 10.76V
4. All door/liftgate ajar - doors closed: 0.0V; doors ajar: 0.01V

That's it. That's all I know for now. Thanks in advance.

 

[BigRondo]

Try searching for "door ajar" There are a bunch of threads. WD-40 is used and ground wires are broken.

 

[Deleted member 139008]

I looked through many of the "door ajar" post. Most (if not all) of the ones I looked at are problems with the door-ajar light coming on when it should not. In other words, the system thinks the door is open when it is closed. My problem is directly the opposite. My door-ajar light never comes on. In my case, the system thinks the door is closed when it is open.

 

[BigRondo]

I looked through many of the "door ajar" post. Most (if not all) of the ones I looked at are problems with the door-ajar light coming on when it should not. In other words, the system thinks the door is open when it is closed. My problem is directly the opposite. My door-ajar light never comes on. In my case, the system thinks the door is closed when it is open.

Aha, I should have read more closely! It could be a broken or damaged wire shorting out. The broken/damaged wires in the boot/door are sometimes difficult to find.

Here is a great thread with pics for checking for broken wires in boot between door and the body, thanks to synyster: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Post #3 in this thread has great instructions for removing the door panel, Thanks to theofam: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271333

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[Deleted member 139008]

She's up and running!

Thanks, BigRondo, for the information and the links. I used them to look for broken wires in the door. But it turns out that the problem was not with any broken wire. Here's what we did.

We pulled the Central Security Module (CSM) out of the vehicle. The guts of the CSM, the actual circuit board, is enclosed in a black box. So we pried off the black, plastic enclosure. With the circuit board exposed, and armed with multi-testers and an oscilloscope, we dove in. (When I say "we", I mean me and my brother-in-law, who is the electrical genius in the family and the guy who did most of the leg work.)

We found that some things were working. For example, we saw that the RF receiver was receiving signals from the key fob and the receiver was passing a signal to the microprocessor on the board. We found good voltages in much of the board. However, there were some voltages that were goofy, and there were some signals that were getting into the microprocessor that were not resulting in any expected outputs from the chip. Our conclusion was that the CSM was messed up.

Next, we went to a junk yard looking for an '02 Explorer. The trick was to find an Early Build model. The '02 Explorers that were built prior to, I think, March 2002 are considered Early Build. The CSM of an Early Build is not the same as one for a Late Build. The plugs in the CSM are different. Having found an Early Build CSM, we plugged it in ... and it worked. The keypad code is, of course, different than my original code, but the keypad code is stamped on the label of the CSM and you can always program in a new code. My original key fob does not work with the "new" CSM, but that is user-programmable as well. Cost of the used CSM from the junk yard? $25. At that price, I can probably buy 10 of them before I reach the cost of a new one.

All that is left to do is replace all the interior panels, program the key fob, and I think I am done.

 

[BigRondo]

Awsome man!! I'm glad you got it fixed. Let me know if you need the instructions for programming the key fobs.

 

[Deleted member 139008]

Yes, I do need the instructions for programming the key fobs. Thanks much again!

 

[BigRondo]

Dude, on my way to the Red Sox game. I will post instructions when I get home if I'm not too lit, or Thursday morning if no one else posts them
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BigRondo]

Alright, here are the instructions for programming the key fob. I have followed these instructions and they have worked for me. I have programmed a remote I bought from Ebay along with the two original remotes. Remember, you must program all key fobs at the same time. I hope this works for you. Let me know if you are having issues. This is from my owner's manual. Remember a max of four can be programmed. The keypad on the driver's door counts as one! Good luck!

P.S. The Red Sox Lost to the Yankees. I'm Pissed!!

 

[Deleted member 139008]

BigRondo, I apologize if I missed something, but I don't see the instructions or a link to the instructions.

 

[BigRondo]

BigRondo, I apologize if I missed something, but I don't see the instructions or a link to the instructions.

You can't see the picture? I scanned the page from the owner's manual.

 

[Deleted member 139008]

Nope. I don't see any picture. Do I need to enable/disable something in my forum preferences or in my browser? I noticed that below the "Posting Rules" at the bottom-left of this Forums page, it says, "HTML code is off". Maybe I need to turn that on.

 

[RickM]

These instructions have been posted by a few members as well:


All remote transmitters are programmable and must be set at the same time.


- Make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed or triggered and key code programming is not active.

- Open the door, then press the driver door lock control switch UNLOCK button.

- Turn the key from OFF to ON 8 times within 10 seconds, with the eighth turn ending in ON. If the program mode is successfully entered the doors will lock and unlock to confirm.

- Press any button on a remote transmitter, and the doors will lock and then unlock all doors to confirm that the remote transmitter is programmed. All remote transmitters must be programmed within 20 seconds of each other.

- Up to four remote transmitters can be programmed to the vehicles security module each time programming mode is entered.

- If the door locks do not respond for any remote transmitter, wait several seconds and press the button again.

 

[BigRondo]

Thanks RickM for posting the instructions. I suppose I could have just typed them in. I thought posting the picture would work. I can see the picture can you? Thanks again.

 

[RickM]

No picture here...... (Twilight Zone music now playing)

 

[BigRondo]

No picture here...... (Twilight Zone music now playing)

Unreal. I posted the picture and I can see it. At the signpost up ahead......

 

[Deleted member 139008]

Thanks RickM for the instructions. BigRondo mentioned in an earlier post, "The keypad on the driver's door counts as one [of the 4 items that must be programmed at the same time]. The instructions you posted don't mention the keypad. Do you have any ideas or instructions regarding how the keypad figures into the programming?

 

[BigRondo]

The keypad on the door counts as one of the four but it is programmed separately. Let me know if you need instructions for programming.

Edit: Here are the instructions from the owner's manual for programming the keypad on the door:

1. Enter the factory-set code (keypad will illuminate when pressed).
2. Press the 1/2 control within five seconds of step 1.
3. Enter your personal 5 digit code. Enter each digit within five seconds of the previous one.

Do not set a code that includes three of the same number or presents them in sequential order. Thieves can easily figure out these types of codes.

Your personal code does not replace the permanent code that the dealership gave you. You can use either code to unlock you vehicle. If a second personal code is entered, the module will erase the first personal code in favor of the new code.

To exit, press 7/8 and 9/0 simultaneously or allow more than 5 seconds to elapse since a button press occurred and the 5 digit code will be programmed.

 

[okinawasteve]

Did you happen to mention where the CSM is located on the vehicle? I have an '02 XLT with a bad CSM (so says the dealer). I don't want to give those greedy SOBs any money if I can help it. Was it difficult to pull?

 

[High_Order1]

you cracked a module and hit it with....an oscope?? Serially??? Wow. Not being a dick at all, but you rarely ever read of someone doing that on a car board. Color me impressed.

Oh, and for the record, I can't see the picture either.

Shawn