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03' 4.6 Multiple Problems

airforce_guy

Member
Joined
January 24, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Clermont, Florida,
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Ford Explorer XLT
I've about had all I can take with this truck. I understand that the truck won't run forever, certainly not already having 200K on it, but I have so many problems that I can't seem to find and neither can anyone else.

1.) My AC doesn't blow hard AT ALL. Can't cool the cabin if the temperature is anything above 70 outside.

2.) I have no rear AC or Heat. It just blows whatever temperature the outside air is no matter what setting I have it on.

3.) The truck runs rough, but only at stops after moderate-heavy acceleration.

4.) The truck has what has been described as an exhaust leak at the block by multiple people. This I can live with until I have the funds to have it repaired.

5.) The rear glass hinge, the pin that goes inside is broken off so the hinge is tilted side ways. I can't find any pin that would fit in it to fix it, and Ford wants my life savings just for the part.

I love this truck to death. I've already put so much money into it, I just can't do it anymore. If anyone could offer up any assistance, it'd be greatly appreciated.
 



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1.) My AC doesn't blow hard AT ALL. Can't cool the cabin if the temperature is anything above 70 outside.

The hardly blowing part may be due to the recirc/fresh air door laying on top of the blower.
Does it blow cold at all? Or just not enough flow?

2.) I have no rear AC or Heat. It just blows whatever temperature the outside air is no matter what setting I have it on.


The diverter actuator may have busted, being stuck in the middle? So all air is blended.
There is a filter in the back AC system, under the car in the pipes just before it goes inside. It's possible that it's become completely clogged with crud. Though this won't effect your heat.

5.) The rear glass hinge, the pin that goes inside is broken off so the hinge is tilted side ways. I can't find any pin that would fit in it to fix it, and Ford wants my life savings just for the part.

This piece should be no more than $8 at any wrecking yard. The hinge assembly, not just the pin.
 






Bad air flow from vents

The recirculating flap has probably fallen down its takes about 15 mins to lower the fan motor down and shine a light up to check. I removed my flap which broke and im not going to replace it . The blower motor which is good quality moves air its the box design that sucks. To remove the flap you need to take the glove box out and remove the top half of the heater box.

The AC system will require a new receiver dryer and a working viscous fan or electric fan that keeps the condenser as cool as possible during the hot weather season. The orifice tube line filters also need to be checked.. clean leak free compressor and a good vac and recharge if possible.
 






1.) My AC doesn't blow hard AT ALL. Can't cool the cabin if the temperature is anything above 70 outside.

The hardly blowing part may be due to the recirc/fresh air door laying on top of the blower.
Does it blow cold at all? Or just not enough flow?
It blows cold, it just doesn't blow hard enough to really make a difference. If my fan speed is on 4, it blows about as hard as my mom's 2011 Silverado on 2.

2.) I have no rear AC or Heat. It just blows whatever temperature the outside air is no matter what setting I have it on.


The diverter actuator may have busted, being stuck in the middle? So all air is blended.
There is a filter in the back AC system, under the car in the pipes just before it goes inside. It's possible that it's become completely clogged with crud. Though this won't effect your heat.
Where is the diverter actuator?

5.) The rear glass hinge, the pin that goes inside is broken off so the hinge is tilted side ways. I can't find any pin that would fit in it to fix it, and Ford wants my life savings just for the part.

This piece should be no more than $8 at any wrecking yard. The hinge assembly, not just the pin.
 






sorry airforce guy!

Yeah you answered the question already. Ive just got a thing about clean condensers and good working fans and receiver dryer replacement not to mention the little inline filters.

OK Airforce guy I have a question i was going to ask Big Rondo probably still will. How well does the 2002-2005 Ford explorer HVAC system work with everything working serviced correctly including rear unit in the back. Will the Ford Explorer drip like crazy in the summer and do you have to turn it down because it is too cool.??
I want my AC system to work like a champ from the front and rear units your thoughts please??
Rickademus
 






Mine had broken actuator for controlling air flow between dash, floor, & defrost problem as described here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=323586 I ended up using a zip tie to fix the problem.

As number4 mentioned it could also be the infamous problem with the fresh air recirculation door. Mine had that problem too. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284042 or http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274510 You can also replace the broken part, but you need to take the dash loose. I did it on my 04 and it wasn't that hard. See http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/ Replacement part is the fresh air door assembly is needed not just the door and it is only available at the Ford dealer. For Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 the part # is 1L2Z18B259AC.
 






For issue #2 . [MENTION=134770]BigRondo[/MENTION] posted Climate Control System troubleshooting from the shop manual It covers both the manual and automatic climate controls. Might be of some help to you.

number4 mentioned rear blend door as an issue. Check these posts:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205370 Post 19 also listed a temperature actuator that could also cause problems.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206180
Living in the light: My first technical post
 






First, Thank You for your service to our country!

When you state your truck runs rough at Stop Signs and after moderate heavy acceleration. Is this engine,transmission, transaxles?

Regarding the hinge, I would suggest making sure the rubber spacers that go between the glass and door frame are installed prior to replacing the hinge. I agree about going to a pull a part type place or EBay. They are $50 for a new pair on eBay. If you can afford a new pair, I would go in that direction.

By the way, the top and bottom spacers are NOT the same size. They are about $8-10 for the 4 spacers at the dealer. When you replace the hinge be sure to loosen the other hinge so there isn't a lot of stress on the one hinge. Once the hinge is installed alternate back and forth tightening the two hinges from the inside the tailgate with glass closed. You may want to tighten 80% by lifting the glass so it is flat with hinge base and finish it off withe entire hatch closed.

Oh, if it is really cold when you are replacing them don't tighten them down too much. Wait for a warm day to finish it off. With expansion and contraction occurring in the tailgate I decided to do it this way so the glass didn't crack on the first warm day. It may be over cautious but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Patrick

I've about had all I can take with this truck. I understand that the truck won't run forever, certainly not already having 200K on it, but I have so many problems that I can't seem to find and neither can anyone else.

1.) My AC doesn't blow hard AT ALL. Can't cool the cabin if the temperature is anything above 70 outside.

2.) I have no rear AC or Heat. It just blows whatever temperature the outside air is no matter what setting I have it on.

3.) The truck runs rough, but only at stops after moderate-heavy acceleration.

4.) The truck has what has been described as an exhaust leak at the block by multiple people. This I can live with until I have the funds to have it repaired.

5.) The rear glass hinge, the pin that goes inside is broken off so the hinge is tilted side ways. I can't find any pin that would fit in it to fix it, and Ford wants my life savings just for the part.

I love this truck to death. I've already put so much money into it, I just can't do it anymore. If anyone could offer up any assistance, it'd be greatly appreciated.
 






First, Thank You for your service to our country!

When you state your truck runs rough at Stop Signs and after moderate heavy acceleration. Is this engine,transmission, transaxles?

Regarding the hinge, I would suggest making sure the rubber spacers that go between the glass and door frame are installed prior to replacing the hinge. I agree about going to a pull a part type place or EBay. They are $50 for a new pair on eBay. If you can afford a new pair, I would go in that direction.

By the way, the top and bottom spacers are NOT the same size. They are about $8-10 for the 4 spacers at the dealer. When you replace the hinge be sure to loosen the other hinge so there isn't a lot of stress on the one hinge. Once the hinge is installed alternate back and forth tightening the two hinges from the inside the tailgate with glass closed. You may want to tighten 80% by lifting the glass so it is flat with hinge base and finish it off withe entire hatch closed.

Oh, if it is really cold when you are replacing them don't tighten them down too much. Wait for a warm day to finish it off. With expansion and contraction occurring in the tailgate I decided to do it this way so the glass didn't crack on the first warm day. It may be over cautious but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Patrick

I'm assuming it has something to do with the motor. Mechanic says bad MAF or IAC Valve. Also, I'm going to my local junkyard to pull the part myself.
 






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