03 Explorer fuse block question

[Jadecat]

Hey gang. Got a question about the fuse block in my 03 Explorer. I am wanting to wire in an additional 12v power supply, cig lighter style, but I want it to only be hot when the key is on. I figured the easiest way to accomplish this would be to use an "add a circuit" fuse adapter and wire it to that. I already did this with a set a of LED DRL lights that I mounted and used an "add a circuit" adapter with the DRL fuse (#30 on the illustration below). I had to try a couple of different fuses that I assumed would only be hot with the key on (moonroof & radio), but they are, apparently, always hot. So I went with the DRL fuse.

So, my question is this, can anyone tell me which fuses, using the diagram below and the fuse number, would be only hot when the key is in the RUN position without me having to go through each fuse, while also not using a fuse that would be vital in case it would blow?

Just in case, this is the "add a circuit" I'm talking about

 

[Number4]

Sun roof (windows) and radio are on a time delay relay. They lose power after a set amount of time.

 

[Jadecat]

Sun roof (windows) and radio are on a time delay relay. They lose power after a set amount of time.

But they power off when you open the door, don't they? I was checking fuses with the door open

 

[imp]

@Jadecat

First, how much added current do you anticipate drawing? If it's sufficient to cause nuisance blowing of the fuse location you choose, using a much larger fuse could place other loads on that fuse in jeopardy. Nifty little add-on you found there,, though!

If it were me, I'd grab a "hot in run only" lead right from the ignition switch, fuse it separately with an appropriate-size fuse, and go from there. If you need more info, I can provide wire colors to grab an appropriate feed right at the Battery Junction Box, under the
hood. Getting at the ign. switch is a bear. imp

 

[Jadecat]

@Jadecat

First, how much added current do you anticipate drawing? If it's sufficient to cause nuisance blowing of the fuse location you choose, using a much larger fuse could place other loads on that fuse in jeopardy. Nifty little add-on you found there,, though!

If it were me, I'd grab a "hot in run only" lead right from the ignition switch, fuse it separately with an appropriate-size fuse, and go from there. If you need more info, I can provide wire colors to grab an appropriate feed right at the Battery Junction Box, under the
hood. Getting at the ign. switch is a bear. imp

I don't anticipate a very heavy draw. It's mainly for a dash cam that is currently being run through the 12v power supply using it's own cig plug adapter. Right now I have to keep turning it on manually and I'd like to have it go on and off with the key

 

[imp]

I don't anticipate a very heavy draw. It's mainly for a dash cam that is currently being run through the 12v power supply using it's own cig plug adapter. Right now I have to keep turning it on manually and I'd like to have it go on and off with the key

@Jadecat

At this point I'll leave you to your own decision. OK?

 

[Number4]

Dash cam should be on the time delay. In the event of an accident, you want it to run a little longer, not just on its own delay.

 

[njtinman2001]

you could use a relay

 

[Jadecat]

Thank you to everyone for your replies