03 fliptrac $700 daily driver (summer of fun with 4 sport tracs) | Page 18 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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03 fliptrac $700 daily driver (summer of fun with 4 sport tracs)

Just now catching up from 5 pages ago.

Forgive me for keeping on about the engine carnage but I couldn't help noticing the broken cam synch gear. My theory is that is the cause. Lack of oil pressure sized cam bearings. Being hard to remove cam patches a hole in the theory also.

Don't see how camshaft could break the gear. Shifting rearward would pull cam away from synch gear. I guess this would also cause loss of oil pump drive, but how would it break the synch drive gear?


You are really doing great work. Amazing stuff
 



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here are the bolt hole locations for the full length console!!View attachment 444821
Two front 8mm that go in horizontal right below the hvac controls

View attachment 444822
Then there are two 8mm going vertically into the floor here, just in front of the Kleenex box
View attachment 444823
After those 4 bolts are out you wiggle it side to side a bit and then a firm pull rear ward towards the back seat and the console will release
Thank you so much!
Those front bolts how do you gain access to that area do those side plastic panels just pop off with a trim tool?
Those two bolts in the storage box are they covered with a plastic cap or something that needs to be removed before access?
 






Absolutely! The front two pieces of plastic simply
Pull straight up and off the console, the bolts are then accessible right there.

Today is engine install day
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Smeared the new/used xe264 cam with assembly lube and installed. I was very careful this time with the timing set and valvetrain lol I do not need a repeat performance.
Everything went smoothly
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New comp cams timing set from oreillys
Loctite and 45’ft lbs with the torque wrench this time
 






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Heads installed w new felpro gaskets and bolts. Been seeing issues with felpro head bolts online… people having them snap before torque is reached. Mine went just like clockwork as my dad would say. No issues. I oiled them as usual and I did a 4 step torque process
Then all the pushrods were checked for true “rolled on flat surface” installed w lifters and rockers. Engine turned over about 18 times all rocker bolts
Torqued to 24 ft lbs about 10 times
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Timing cover water puMo
Valve
Covers, oil pan,
New standard cam synchro dropped in.
All parts
Cleaned (wasn’t hard one day on these parts since I did this last!)
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Time for the obx headers again!
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Time to put her on the hoist, replace rear main, install flywheel and clutch and then stab to trans. After she is stabbed and some bellhousing bolts in then I will lift the engine install motor plates and drop
Her onto the mounts, much easier to stab and engine to trans w no plates
 






Looks twice as nice
 






Oh boy its going down :)
 






Had some help yesterday it was awesome! Couple of buddies came over to help me stab the engine
We got it done!
It was 95 degrees yesterday, hottest day of the year up here… my shop stays cool (70-75) so it’s a good place to be

We prepped the engine with new rear main, flywheel and clutch, then dropped her in. With the clutch on the back of the engine the 5.0 has to be lowered into engine bay at an angle and then twisted as it goes down.. otherwise no fit. Once it was twisted and lowered enough we were able to stab it. This process took a while, stabbing engine to trans can be tricky! (Vs stabbing trans to engine)
Maybe faster just to remove trans…. Anyways we got it… then raised it up a bit, dropped motor plates on their mounts and then bolted to the engine… again this took a bit, not easy access to those
Bolts.
Late in the afternoon they were getting ready to leave, we had the trax up on the lift… then I saw it.
The spacer plate, block plate, starter shim, whatever you want to call it sitting there on the install table.
Dang. My heart sank! Forgot to install plate! All 3 of us missed it

Now to install the plate the trans,
Clutch, flywheel all have to be removed. Huge bummer! But this project has been a battle so after a short break I went back after it. Except I got smart. With the truck on the lift I was pretty easily able
To just unbolt the 5 speed and pull it back. Back far enough to install a modified block
Plate
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The v6 plates are cut like this which gave me the idea. Was able to
Slide it up in there and re install. Took another few hours to accomplish but eventually I got the 5 speed and t case Re stabbed and bolted in. Called it quits at 10pm. Starter exhaust crossmember drivelines all installed
Phew this truck is determined to kick my butt
I am determined not to let it

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Block plate in! Finally!
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5 speed stabbed, again
Trans crossmember in
Wiring going in
Exhaust pipes in, new gaskets at all flanges
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Here are some
Good obx header shots
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Now time to lower
Truck and assemble the engine bay
 






Sucks when you forget something important like that! Lol
With temperatures like that up there you had better make sure that ac works good! 👍
Supposed to be 105 here tomorrow and 103 on Sunday 😳 but hey it's summer time here in Oklahoma!
 






i hate those plates. v6 ones are even more annoying because most of the time they want to fall out while your trying to line everything up.


makes me mad thinking of it.....
 






Yes they like to fall down on your face! Pita
It’s almost all together fingers crossed

Duct tape can hold the spacer up but then many times you end up with duct tape stuck in there forever lol
 






A couple of times I used RTV to hold the spacer/block plate to the engine. it has to set up overnight. @Josh P will have a surprise when he sees his Mustang II C-4 spacer plate. We made one out of 3/32" aluminum. Mustang II 302 bellhousings and spacer plates are near unavailable.
I look forward to working on my 5.0 in about 3 weeks. The newest carport that we purchased will have an opening. Perfect for a fall work session and out of the rain drops.
Keep up the good work !
 






A couple of times I used RTV to hold the spacer/block plate to the engine. it has to set up overnight. @Josh P will have a surprise when he sees his Mustang II C-4 spacer plate. We made one out of 3/32" aluminum. Mustang II 302 bellhousings and spacer plates are near unavailable.
I look forward to working on my 5.0 in about 3 weeks. The newest carport that we purchased will have an opening. Perfect for a fall work session and out of the rain drops.
Keep up the good work !
Do you want any of that stuff back when I pull it out? I've got a spare T56 and 302 laying around I'm thinking about swapping in. I know you are looking for a C4.
 






Truck is running and running well!!! I’m working to mount the back bumper, modified for the body
Lift, then I will test drive! I got some
Video I will post it
Look ma 3 pedals! (With new pedal
Covers!)
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Your truck has two brake pedals
 


















 






So does this camshaft require breaking in?
 









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Nope, roller cams need no break in for the cam lobes. :cool:
That's what I thought but wasn't sure
And I'm certainly not afraid of asking questions
Lol

That thing does sound nasty doesn't it.
 






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