03 fliptrac $700 daily driver

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune Jamie, Question: In relation to the ABS delete, could a resistor of equal value to the resistance of the bulb filament be plugged into the bulb socket and keep the chime off?
I may have been making a mistake with these 4.0 SOHCs when it comes to oil changes. Sometimes at our local Wal-Mart, FL1A filters are not available and I will settle for a Fram PH8A. I recently read something oil viscosity and filters. It is quoted from another internet user.
"Unless you designed and built the engine yourself. Use ONLY the oil viscosity the engineers that actually designed the engine to use recommends. Chances are they know more than you about their engines they designed and if you do so choose to go against their recommendation you cannot be upset if an engine failure results. NEVER use Fram or Champion-labs (STP, BOSCH, MOBIL1, K&N) oil filters. Use only Motorcraft oil filters for all Fords. All other filters do not have anti-siphon drain back valves and will cause premature engine damage usually resulting in broken timing chain tensioners and cam phasers."
I have been using 10W30 in place of 5W30 which I hope is ok, however I think that I need to go get a FL1A filter and get the Fram off of the 4.0 SOHC. Any additional thoughts?

 

[410Fortune]

I believe that fram has the anti drain back valve, however I only run motorcraft filters. I will settle for a wix or Napa gold if the 820s or fl1a is not available

Oil viscosity is important, but from what I have learned over the years ( and what is listed on the bottles) is that the oil you choose should be based on your climate.
For example if I run 15-40 diesel oil in the winter here it can actually almost freeze, whereas 5-40 diesel oil will stay liquid down to much lower temps. Trying to start my 7.3 when it’s 10 degrees outside with 15-40 in the crank case is not going to happen. Install 5-40 and she fires off. Same with my yanmar turbo diesel military generator.

The numbers are the low and high viscosity and everything in the middle is the operating range, based on your climate/temps you choose what is needed.


Now with that said the wife’s FJ cruiser calls for 5w-20 right on the oil cap, so does the ford 3.0 Vulcan engine. I am not sure 10-30 is going to hurt these in the summer months?? Never has for me.
Some engines maybe more susceptible to oil viscosity changes then others…

I would go over to bobstheoilguy.com and see what the experts agree on

Here is a good read:

How to Choose the Right Engine Oil

To choose the right lubricant for your vehicles, use the viscosity grade(s) recommended by the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) for the life of the engine and especially during the engi…

www.machinerylubrication.com

Here is a viscosity chart

For the abs bulb and warning chime, as long as the bulb is in there and not blown we get no chime, I am sure a resistor can fool the computer into thinking the bulb is still good for sure. The mechanical chime could also be removed lol and the cluster can also be blacked out. Some of the newer clusters (06+ for our fords) you cannot access the led bulbs for warning indicators so some good black paint on the surface can do the trick. Several ways to skin a cat.
Over the years I have used them all. My favorite and the easiest is to simply leave the bulb in there but use a small piece of black tape and some black paint to blackout the light inside the cluster. On my wife’s FJ cruiser I used about 4 coats of touch up paint very very carefully to black out the Christmas tree of led indicators that appeared when I cut her wheel speed sensor wires and disabled her abs and traction control, 2007 FJ abs disabled in 2007, uses leds so Black paint was my best option….

 

[joney]

"My personal sport trax will not have abs, I absolutely despise the pedal pulsing 4wabs on these trucks…. I have been pumping my own brakes since I was 16,
For me this abs system increases your stopping distances it does not decrease them, especially on gravel or ice…. And the way the pedal pulses… I could go on and on."

AMEN!

Yes! Sometimes you DO want the 'friction stop' lock the wheels for a short time! Why I'll never get the newer overly tech laden trucks. You rely on their assistance - unless it happens to fail.....

 

[oklagp1200r]

Every new tensioner I've seen for a 4.0 sohc has a fairly stiff internal spring, that isn't enough to keep the chain tight until the oil pressure builds up after say 30 secs? The concern I have is that manual ones don't have enough give to let the guide move with the chains. I'm here to learn, not question your judgement, so please don't take it that way. My goal is to keep my 4.0 on the road as long as possible.

Just flood start it about 4 short bursts of the starter and watch the oil pressure gauge. When you see it move showing oil pressure let off the gas pedal and start it like normal! Has been working for me with 215,000 miles on my 01 ST. I second the fact about a good quality of synthetic oil and a good oil filter is a must for any engine! Depending on how your vehicle is driven (highway, city or a combination) is what is needed to determine oil change intervals. A oil sample sent off to a lab helps tremendously too in that determination! Engineers are engineers for what that's worth I have a friend that's a chemist and car guru that designs his own oils, coolants, grease, oil filters, etc. That I have been using for 15+ years now! I use a 12.5x35 oil in my ST with absolutely no oil used in 12,000 miles.

 

[410Fortune]

Well said
You use 12.5x 35 oil? Lol

I’m going to run manual tensioners in my sohc
I know about the flood mode pre start thanks to this forum I tell everyone I know that has a sohc

We are putting together a 02 trac right now for a friend 05 sohc engine 07 trans. I’m replacing the cassettes and installing manual tensioners in that one also

I’m now waiting on a waterpump in the mail before I can put the $700 truck back together will do fuel pump while I wait

 

[oklagp1200r]

Well said
You use 12.5x 35 oil? Lol

I’m going to run manual tensioners in my sohc
I know about the flood mode pre start thanks to this forum I tell everyone I know that has a sohc

We are putting together a 02 trac right now for a friend 05 sohc engine 07 trans. I’m replacing the cassettes and installing manual tensioners in that one also

I’m now waiting on a waterpump in the mail before I can put the $700 truck back together will do fuel pump while I wait

Keep gaining experience on these V8 conversions so when someday when mine finally gives up I'll have it trailered up there to you for a V8 conversion!

 

[410Fortune]

I can do a 01 trac in my sleep
But absolutely!! I learn something new each day!

 

[410Fortune]

Making progress

New carquest premium water pump installed

Easy access to the timing chain tensioner with the thermo housing out

These have been on my toolbox for so long I had to clean and lube them

Installed
Will do final adjustment w sohc running

Prepping the new housing, installing the factory sensors but with the new o rings

 

[Nctruckman]

What method do you use to set the tension on those manual tensioners?

 

[donalds]

What method do you use to set the tension on those manual tensioners?

Good question
It takes practice

For an experienced person its real easy
Here is a step by step guide so its almost impossible to mess it up

My install steps for manual timing tensioners
Use this tensioner at your own risk
Its not a fix all



1...Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust
>>>>>Only turn the engine clockwise <<<<<
2...Set engine to top dead center before installing !!!!!
3...Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
4...Then install it into the head
5...Tighten the tensioner adjuster 10mm with your fingers !!!!!!
6...Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
........Do not use a ratchet !!.......<<<<<<<<<<
7...Now have someone turn the engine by hand using the crank bolt clockwise till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again ...with your fingers ...!!!!

8...Now disconnect the crank sensor
9...Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

>>>>>>>never put much force turning that adjustment screw like almost no force required<<<
We are just removing the slack that's it!!!!!

10...Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

11...Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done
>>>>>>>>>Do this one Tensioner at a time !!!!!!<<<<<<<

 

[410Fortune]

Excellent post! Thanks for doing all the legwork on this

I basically follow the alba racing instructions for installing into a Polaris 999cc prostar engine
@donalds took it waaaay further and had proven these work

 

[allmyEXes]

While I had my 4.0 SOHC stripped that far down (as post #48) to be able to install the front manual tensioner, I put the radiator back in to hook up the automatic transmission lines so that I could run the engine long enough to adjust the front tensioner. Then I pulled the dry radiator back out, installed the thermostat housing, fan, belt and other missing parts then finished from there.

 

[Josh P]

The only thing missing is a 302

 

[410Fortune]

She will get a 302
First I want to see how far I can get this sohc and 5r to go…. I mean I just resealed the intakes and charged the ac!!! Hahahaha


I just put a 302 into a 04 ranger last
Month and there is a 05 trac in the shop getting a 302 right now (stepson)! Plus I am taking apart a 03 trax so I can have the parts needed to install a 05 sohc and 07 trans into another 01 trac that will get us through June
The 07 ranger I just ordered final parts on too planning to finish her by end of June as well

Then finally after all that I can take the 02 black trac apart to get the parts I need to put my 03 Blue trac v8 ttb 5 speed together

What time are you coming over? Lol

Scored a tire machine yesterday! Been after one for years

I got the sohc engine back together mostly last night. Now she goes up on the lift for the fuel pump. Good time to do the passenger side tensioner install
Also getting plugs and wires
I already charged the ac on this rig and did a bunch of front end work and parts. It also looks like I just scored a used superlift that I can put on this 700 trac too

Stay tuned!

 

[Josh P]

What time are you coming over? Lol

What's the plan after lunch?

 

[410Fortune]

So since I am in here doing the thermo housing and drivers tensioner I figured I mine as well do the pass valve cover.. it’s not leaking but it’s not exactly sealed either. I did the drivers a couple of weeks ago
This back bolt is a pita…. When working on these engines there is always a hose or hoses or tube or something in the way and it seems always sharp edges all over to maneuver your hands around. Fun fun.
I found this setup works for getting the back bolt, 12 point 8mm 3/8 drive w wobbly and short extension

Valve cover off surfaces cleaned new felpro
Blue gasket installed. Engine was brought to tdc again for install of pass side tensioner

Basically I do them like this
Bring cyl 1 to tdc
Tensioner is oiled and installed into head w new gasket and a little thread sealant. The tensioner is installed with the center adjuster backed 75% of the way out
Now the center adjuster is turned in with two fingers, no socket.
As tight as my fingers will take it (it will stop when you hit the backside of tensioner)
Next I put ratchet on the crank balancer and bar the engine over about 3-4 complete cycles,‘

Tighten the adjuster with fingers some more…as tight as my fingers can go (strong fingers)

back off 10 degrees

Hold center adjuster in place with wrench while jamb nut is installed

Done.


So far I have not had to go back and adjust them again after this

Will take pics of pass side install

When I quit last night

The alternator is noisy so I’m installing a different low miles one

All of these parts appear to be oem even the spark plugs!! 235k miles

I drained the power steering at the cooler as well, this trac is getting all new fluids


Bad parts bad!!!

After lunch we mow grass….lots and lots of grass everything very very green up here

Grass is mowed with a atv and DR pull behind mower so it’s not all that bad lol lol

 

[donalds]

Tighten the adjuster with fingers some more…as tight as my fingers can go (strong fingers)

That's why I used a socket Without a wrench
most people don't have terminator hands lol
The sharp edges dig into my fingers

 

[BKennedy]

You know what always bothered me about the terminator, why did he need a torque wrench to replace the starter in that big Bronco? Wouldn't he have built in torque limits, being a machine?

 

[donalds]

You know what always bothered me about the terminator, why did he need a torque wrench to replace the starter in that big Bronco? Wouldn't he have built in torque limits, being a machine?

Wow l that's great lmao

He wanted it to be period correct

 

[410Fortune]

Okay with the fliptrac up on the lift access to the spark plugs and passenger side tensioner is better
Here is the back of the pass head

1-1/16” socket factory tensioner removed

Head Surface is cleaned. New manual tensioner is oiled and some thread sealant on the threads it goes in. Remember the engine is at tdc right now

We just happen to have a few sohc engines around here right now, stepson just replaced the rear cassette on his project. This is what the rear tensioner pushes on

This is the access to tensioner and spark plugs
Tensioner body is fitted w new gasket and threaded in: torque is 35 ft lbs no I don’t use a torque wrench I use my terminator touch

now the center adjuster screw is tightened with two fingers until it stops

The engine is barred over about umpteen times and the fingerntight torque is checked again. Then I use a tiny 10mm wrench, back the adjuster off 10’degrees and add the lock nut. Using the 10mm to keep adjuster from turning and a 19mm to lock the jamb nut down

Done

Now to remove the spark plugs and replace with new Autolite ap103
I use this handy snap on wrench

Finally the truck was raised much higher and we tackled the fuel pump replacement. Not the greatest when there is 3/4 tank of fuel but we managed. Sport trac is super easy to drop tank on….. way easier then the old gen iis
Everything on a 03 trac is easily unplugged before the tank is lowered
Then lower a bit and unplug the wiring

With tabk on the floor it was easy to replace the pump, strainer and filter

Top of tank brushed off, dirt blown off, a little pb
Blaster to help the lock ring spin and fuel lines come free

Had some help yesterday even the teenagers are starting to appear in the shop now from time to time (almost driving age)

Nice to have help!

Today I test drive

These 07 explorer wheels are all wrong for this trac, major rubbing in the back too I will run some 5/16
Spacers until a different wheel and tire combo is fitted

Now before I lower the truck I will service the front and rear diffs the t case and drop the trans pan and filter
Then finally new plug wires,‘coolant and testing
$700 trac getting some love
Factory water pump,’factory fan clutch, factory plugs/wires (235k!!!!) and factory alternator all go bye bye
Getting invested in this sucker now I hope the sohc is nice to me after all the crap I have talked over the years lmfao!