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03 lincoln aviator

Bummer about the rod bolts, I hope you'll be okay reusing them. Just don't do any 9-grand launches at the drag strip.:burnout::laugh: I hear ya about the bolts P/S pump, that fourth bolt is a complete PITA! I think three would be plenty to hold that thing on, and I was very close to just leaving it out when I did the timing set on mine last year. But I caved & reinstalled it.
Lol yea.I've reused rod bolts before,matter of fact my current 4.0 has reused bolts in it and i beat the crap outa it..ive seen and heard of many others reusing them also so hopefully they will be fine.

Trick for just doing timing chains is to leave the right 2 bolts in the pump but loose..only remove the front left 2 that goes into the cover..figured that out the 2nd time i had to take cover off..oil the threads helps drastically. .anything that goes into aluminum i oil or use antisieze
 



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Trick for just doing timing chains is to leave the right 2 bolts in the pump but loose..only remove the front left 2 that goes into the cover..figured that out the 2nd time i had to take cover off..oil the threads helps drastically. .anything that goes into aluminum i oil or use antisieze
Good tip, I hope I never have to use it! LOL

Sounds like you're probably good to go on the bolts, then.
 






Well she runs,fired right up on the first click..smoked its ass off and smoked little bit for the test drive.took it right out after burped it..ran up and down through the rpms but not to high.

It stopped smoking basically after 15 mins of driving and didnt smoke wile i reved it in the driveway. .BUT when i started again after doing a master reset it smoked on start up,much much smaller of a puff though. .didnt appear to smoke on the drive home..

Runs super smooth and drives like a new truck with these tires..i didnt hear the roar that i thought was a rear bearing and it doesnt pull or shake from that bad tire..

I had to keep checking the rpms to tell if it was running. .ill see how it runs tomorrow and how bad if it smokes on start up..i added a zinc additive to the oil to help the rings also..

I do smell a slight smell of antifreeze but cant see any leaks and havent lost any coolant

Keep them fingers crossed!!!!

Sure loooks good back in my driveway though. .the wheels are growing on me but still needs a drop,they look too small with all that gap!! :)

20160913_184030_zpse2rqw1sl.jpg
 






Good deal. I admire your perseverance. I hope she rolls another 150,000 for you.
 






Good deal. I admire your perseverance. I hope she rolls another 150,000 for you.
Lets wait to call it a success for some more miles or till it completely stops smoking..

I need to install a oil separator into the pcv system. .these things are famous for eatn oil that way also.wanna keep things as clean as possible. .

I had to buy new plugs because they were so coated in oil and also the exhaust valve stems had build up on them already. .i imagine its gonna take a bit and some rpms to really clean things out
 






Smoked at start up,nothing like before though. .didnt appear to smoke again on the drive to work
 






O and im still getting a cat code below efficient on bank 2..going to say its clogged up from all the raw fuel that was being dumped by #7 and then all the oil that was being pumped through it..

Wish they made cheap Ypipe replacements with high flow cats .lol
 






Still smokes on start up and im 71 miles down..pretty much all city easy driving :( fingers are still crossed but not looking very hopeful
 






I just found this thread by accident and couldn't stop reading it until I got thru the whole thing. There is a lot of good information in it which may help me assemble my DOHC V8 correctly. From what I read about pulling and installing the heads with the engine in the vehicle I suspect it would not be possible when using head studs and nuts instead of head bolts. Thanks for the tip about having the exhaust manifold mounted to the head and removing/installing as an assembly instead of individually.
 






I just found this thread by accident and couldn't stop reading it until I got thru the whole thing. There is a lot of good information in it which may help me assemble my DOHC V8 correctly. From what I read about pulling and installing the heads with the engine in the vehicle I suspect it would not be possible when using head studs and nuts instead of head bolts. Thanks for the tip about having the exhaust manifold mounted to the head and removing/installing as an assembly instead of individually.
Yes with studs it wouldn't be able to be done unless you pulled all the studs out wile the heads were on the motor.the very back driverside stud/bolt still wouldn't come all the way out and need to be rubber banded up enough for the head to slide off

Also dont know if posted or not but i replaced my exhaust manifold bolts with SS studs

If i had more time i would have like to degree each cam also,i hear its pretty important and stock cam gears can be pretty far off..they make a adjustable set but have seen people dremel the key groove out to fine adjust them
 






Changed the rear end fluid today and have to say it was the nastiest oil ive seen and especially being this is a open rear end!! :(
 






Sooooo i may have made a pretty big mistake. .according to the rings they should be installed DRY and the cylinder should be wiped pretty much clean with a clean lint free rag after being oiled..

No oil should be applied to the piston ring grooves or to the rings themselves. .the rings are made for very smooth cylinder walls and the type of material the rings are made out of is very smooth..

basically they need to be dry and clean to cause friction to break in..also to break them in you should do 10 (0-60) hard burst reaching 5,000 and alow the motor to slow down on it own then let cool..the rings need the pressure from the explosion to help push the rings out to alow them to seat..normal driving and the normal spring pressure/tension isnt enough to break them in...

If this is not done then it could take thousand plus miles for them to break in if they ever do...

I did not oil the rings but i did oil the piston ring grooves before installing the rings..also i did oil the cylinders pretty heavily before putting the pistons back in,i did not wipe them clean/dry after..also i did about 10 pulls up to about 4,000 rpms but wasnt full WOT to that rpm..im 111 miles on the motor now and really haven't pushed it hard..yet..

LESSON LEARNED..if they dont break in by tax return ill be getting a stroked short block with the 3.7**" forged piston and rods..then reusing my heads..pricy but if im gonna do it again im going all out..
 






I doubt you made things worse by oiling it. Just made the process longer. Either way the oil will eventually burn off and run off. Just got do some WOT runs as instructions state and have some fun! Then see how it goes
 






I doubt you made things worse by oiling it. Just made the process longer. Either way the oil will eventually burn off and run off. Just got do some WOT runs as instructions state and have some fun! Then see how it goes
5 times today out of the 11 times i started it,it did not smoke. .

I just started it to go to dinner ,after dinner and at the gas station and it didnt smoke any of the times..also did some hard WOT pulls..i did the air box mod so it sounds pretty damn mean!!!

But yea i agree i think i just made the process a whole lot longer..think they will break in like others have said but may take a thousand miles or so to completely break in..
 






i did the air box mod so it sounds pretty damn mean!!!
Is this just removing the silencer cone from the inlet, or something else?

Congrats on getting it back together & on the way to a smoke free ride.:chug:
 












Is this just removing the silencer cone from the inlet, or something else?

Congrats on getting it back together & on the way to a smoke free ride.:chug:
I left the tube that goes to behind the headlight but cut it flush inside the box,most of the air will come from here...then i drilled a 2" hole through the bottom and through the fender between the 2 bottom mounting tabs(but not through the plastic fender liner)..this is only spot that doesnt hit the windshield fluid reservoir and goes into empty space

then drilled a 2" hole below the 2 mounting tabs on the side of box but not through the fender there,there wasnt room to go through the metal there..

Most air will still come from behind the headlight but when you go WOT is sucks through all the holes..it hasnt affected IAT at all that I've seen and sounds mean when your on it
 












What kind of oil did you start the fresh engine with, and have you changed it yet? You want a basic oil and straight weight to start, for the first 20 minutes or so. Then change it to a quality dino oil for a thousand miles at least, depending on how long it takes to seat the rings. I saw last year that you can buy a specific break in oil, which might be nice if it works better.
 



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What kind of oil did you start the fresh engine with, and have you changed it yet? You want a basic oil and straight weight to start, for the first 20 minutes or so. Then change it to a quality dino oil for a thousand miles at least, depending on how long it takes to seat the rings. I saw last year that you can buy a specific break in oil, which might be nice if it works better.
I know this has been debated to death but im like you,a old school builder. .

Now from what ive read when it comes to just rings(all i did) its not as important as synthetic oil comes in the motor from the factory,this is also why these motors are blamed for having smoke issues brand new and why the pvc system sucks so much oil up because of how fine it oils the heads and the thinner synthetic oil..

But to answer your question i used Castro syntec 5-20 and added a bottle of lucas zinc break in additive. .i have not changed the oil yet..i do think this is another reason the rings are taking so long to break in,with the addition of the oily cylinders and oiled ring grooves..
 






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