03 XLT 4x4 Strut Removal

[03Explo20]

Ok, folks, I'm going to attempt to change out the complete front strut units on my 03. I am also planning to change out the sway bar links as well as the sway bar bushings.

I've read that the links get in the way when trying to remove the strut assemblies down through the LCA's so I'll leave those off until the struts can be removed.

Is having the links removed all that will be required to get the entire strut unit out without problems? I really do not want to have to remove any UCA bolts for this as 'some' have stated. I have brand new Moog struts ready to go in right in place of the factories and am hoping for minimal difficulties.

Finally, I'm going to guess here that the lower strut mounting bolt is going to be a real SOB to remove due to the rough Pa. winters this truck has seen. If it's anything like the UCA bolts I removed to replace those several months back, I better have some Tylenol ready to go!

I was planning to try to get the bolt to break using just hand tools and PB Blaster. I have my electric Kobalt lug gun standing by if that fails. It's rated to 350 ft lbs so I'm hoping it can get the job done if I can't do it by hand.

Any other tips or tricks on removing this lower bolt? I'll have the propane torch ready as well I guess. I'm just hoping it will break without much fanfare.

Thank guys!

 

[lincolnshibuya]

you don't need to remove the UCA bolts as well as compressing the springs. once you disconnected the sway bar end links there will be room to pull out the coil assembly by spreading the lower control arm down. You could even remove the tie rod from the knuckle for more room (but it's not necessary)
the driver side shock absorber bolt is always a PITA and it could be seized, you should soak it in pb blaster daily and days before removing it. An impact gun helps a lot but in my case I was able to get the exact bolt from the junkyard (driver side too) using a breaker bar.

 

[drdoom]

For some reason I seem to recall separating the upper ball joint from the knuckle as well as the sway bar end link. I could be certainly be mistaken though.

 

[Number4]

The impact gun will be good because it pounds. This motion will help with corrosion vs just a breaker bar.

 

[apenland01]

Since I just did this on my 05 with 4x4, I can tell you that the old strut coilover should come out with no problem, once you've removed the nuts/bolts. However, the new one won't slide right into place because it will hit the axle and the tie rod end. Since it is new, it will be taller, at least it was with my new KYB coilovers

Once I got the pitman arm puller and released the ball joint, the UCA is free and you can just move it up, slide the new coilover into place and be done with it.

The sway bar end links weren't in the way on mine, but releasing them gives you movement on the LCA's so you can manipulate the old and new coilovers going in.

Good luck!

 

[ROBinGa]

Here is my advice on the bolt that secures strut to lower control arm. Soak with your favorite PB Blaster or similar for a few hours before trying this. Get your wheels off then using a breaker bar or socket with cheater pipe, try to loosen the lower strut bolt, just to see if it starts turning. If the drivers side starts to move but feels like it wants to spring back on you then I bet you have the common problem of that bolt seizing to the sleeve and rubber bushing in the strut. Passenger side will probably be just fine but driver side seems to seize. if the strut bolt starts to turn and you gain ground then you should be good to go. If you do get that springing sensation then you are going to be cutting that bolt off which isn't fun but doable. Lots of posts about this to guide you. I had to cut my driver front side bolt and my Explorer has never seen salt. best of luck

 

[03Explo20]

Guys, just one additional question. I looked at the top mount bolts on my struts and they are corroded something terrible. Is it possible to get a sawzall in there in case they need to be cut off or would a regular old hacksaw fit with the suspension lifted and extended??

 

[ROBinGa]

If you can get in through the engine bay to use Dremel or similar I would say that would be the best. Those are small diameter studs that attach the strut to the frame there. If you can cut that nut off then once you get the bottom strut bolt off, out will come the strut no problem. Those top bolts and your ability to get a tool or saw in there for clearance are not going to change by jacking up the explorer or the suspension parts.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

et your impact snap the bolt out, I guess it's #10 nut so it's nothing.

 

[Onuma]

A strong impact gun with pre-emptive PB blaster soaking will help break up the crud from that lower shock bolt. If it gets 100% seized like mine did, you'll need to cut it up with a cutoff wheel, reciprocating saw, or Ox/Acetylene cutting torch -- or just do like me and replace the LCA and coil spring assembly simultaneously.

Good luck!

 

[96firephoenix]

I just did mine last saturday. No need to pop the sway bar end links (although it would make it a touch easier) to change them on my 02 XLS 4x4.

The top bolts could possibly be zipped through the wheel well...

Also, I didn't need to compress the springs at all going in or coming out. Might have made going in a little easier though.

 

[extra-medium]

You will have to separate the ball joint/UCA from the knuckle and sway bar end link to get the old strut out and the new strut in. The bottom bolt for the strut through the LCA isn't that bad, I was able to do it with a breaker bar. Getting the bottom of the strut lined up in the LCA was a PITA for me but I don't know if that was because I went with the Rancho struts, so I had to wrestle it in a little more.

 

[03Explo20]

Guys, thank you all for the help and suggestions. I did this job today and it all went smoothly. BOTH lower strut bolts broke free without any problems! I was expecting the drivers side to be hell but it was just as easy to remove as the passenger side.

I did have to remove the sway bar links and UCA ball joint bolt in order to get the UCE to lower enough to get the new lower bolt through the new strut. No problems there except it seems to me the sway bar might be a little "off" on the drivers side as after tightening the sway link on that side there is still a bit of a gap on the inside part. I tightened these down to where the bushings were just flattening like is required so I guess I'll see if this is a problem or not. If it is, not a big deal as I'll just redo the sway links and take the entire sway bar off this time!

What was a ***** on this job was those upper strut bolts due to the rust and corrosion. I blasted the with PB Blaster and was able to work them off ever so slow. I also did not have a torque wrench that went any higher than 150ft lbs so I used my 30" breaker bar and just tightened the **** out of that 24mm bolt! It ain't going anywhere!

Thanks again to all you who offered your thoughts on this. You guys make life a whole helluva lot easier!

Ken

 

[ROBinGa]

That's great news and glad you had no problems. How do the new struts make the ride?

 

[drdoom]

You will have to separate the ball joint/UCA from the knuckle and sway bar end link to get the old strut out and the new strut in. The bottom bolt for the strut through the LCA isn't that bad, I was able to do it with a breaker bar. Getting the bottom of the strut lined up in the LCA was a PITA for me but I don't know if that was because I went with the Rancho struts, so I had to wrestle it in a little more.

I have a brief thread in the Modified forum for Rancho Install Tips. Beat Wishes.

 

[03Explo20]

That's great news and glad you had no problems. How do the new struts make the ride?

Ride is very nice now. No wandering or funny "bumpiness" like before. I bought the below Moog's from RA in case anyone is interested. They ride beautifully!

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4410744