05 XLT 4x4 4DR V8-4.6L 200K + miles, throwing codes: P0171, P0174, P1000, P2197 told I need new CAT & muffler | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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05 XLT 4x4 4DR V8-4.6L 200K + miles, throwing codes: P0171, P0174, P1000, P2197 told I need new CAT & muffler

carcassanova

New Member
Joined
November 10, 2023
Messages
8
Reaction score
3
City, State
Gates, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005, XLT, V8-4.6L, 4x4
DROVE my truck to AMMCO because I believed I needed transmission work, because it was shifting hard, and bucking & skipping when I tried to back up... I had a 98 Explorer that did that and the reverse band went, so I had it rebuilt... anyways, prior to this issue had to replace: all plugs, coils, injectors, MAFS, EGR valve, O2 sensors, and 2 fuel injector connectors were spliced on that came from an 06... the codes it threw were prior to changing the O2 sensors. AMMCO went to take my truck for a test drive afterwards (I had 1/4 tank went I parked it in their lot), but they ran out of gas and had to push it back. (I suspect someone syphoned the gas over night)... still they should have checked the gauge as it has a low gas warning light! I digress, but I believe the running the vehicle on fumes pushed all the gunk out of the bottom of my tank and into my fuel filter and maybe clogged my CAT & muffler. They told me that I needed to replace the CAT and muffler and that the truck won't even start now. It started once, then stalled and won't start and that I need to tow it somewhere else to do the repair... So, I am trying to figure out if they caused this problem by running it on empty, when it wasn't doing any of this prior to dropping it off. I freaking drove it there. Now it won't start or if it does start, it stalls. My question is this: should I change the fuel filter & put a CAT cleaner in the gas tank and try to start it again... if it will start and drive, is it fixed or is this temporary and I will still have to replace the CAT and possibly the muffler?
I bought the truck 9 months ago with 200K (+) miles on it, because the under carriage was very clean... almost no rust at all & the guy claimed he fixes and maintains his own vehicles... he had an old cherry red hot rod in the garage, so I believed him. My wife said don't be so naive, he spends all his time on the hot rod and this vehicle only gets attention if it breaks down... like a house builder never remodels or repairs his own home, because he is busy building or renovating other peoples homes... she was right. On the drive home 100+ miles the alternator went and we had to limp all the way to the closest Auto Zone which was 50 miles away... she said I was driving like Mr. Toad when he gets that car from the crooks in the bar... again, she was right, and it was I suppose amusing if I wasn't so worried about being stranded in the backwoods of VA on my way to the Parts store... we were able to charge it at one Auto Zone, to get us to the next place, because they didn't have my alternator in stock... anyways... I have since replaced ALL the wheel bearing hub assemblies, both headlights, the plastic strip on the rear door that was cracked, the rear door handle mechanism, 4 new tires, 4 new slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads, calipers, & tire sensors, the alternator, a battery, the rear differential was dry so I took care of that, the transfercase fluid was changed, all the O2 sensors, MAFS, EGR valve, 2 fuel injectors, all the spark plugs and coil packs, and 2 fuel injector connectors, a window motor in the rear, engine oil & filter changes as needed, and AMMCO added 2 qts of transmission fluid to my tranny because it was low... (they don't change tranny fluid on vehicles with high miles because it causes more problems)... it is my wifes opinion that as long as the tranny or engine doesn't quit on us if we replace the CAT and muffler that we have already replaced all the items that normally get replaced by now and it should go another 100K as long as we take care of it... I JUST HAVE TO GET IT ROLLING AGAIN!!! AMMCO did assure me that the tranny was actually fine and the CAT and muffler will cost way less than a transmission repair, rebuild or replacement. So... is it worth replacing the CAT & muffler? or should I just tow it home, replace the fuel filter, add CAT cleaner and see if it starts and drives? or should I suck it up, tow it to the closes Muffler shop and invest another $1500+ in the vehicle? Purchased for $4500, put all those new parts in... should I throw in the towel or keep it running? Reluctant to buy another vehicle since I can't afford a new car yet, and will be buying another used vehicle to replace it. She wants to replace the CAT & muffler & fuel filter... she's probably right. I suppose. Any suggestions???
 



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Check fuel pump inertia switch. Check fuel pressure.

Report back.
 












DROVE my truck to AMMCO because I believed I needed transmission work, because it was shifting hard, and bucking & skipping when I tried to back up... I had a 98 Explorer that did that and the reverse band went, so I had it rebuilt... anyways, prior to this issue had to replace: all plugs, coils, injectors, MAFS, EGR valve, O2 sensors, and 2 fuel injector connectors were spliced on that came from an 06... the codes it threw were prior to changing the O2 sensors. AMMCO went to take my truck for a test drive afterwards (I had 1/4 tank went I parked it in their lot), but they ran out of gas and had to push it back. (I suspect someone syphoned the gas over night)... still they should have checked the gauge as it has a low gas warning light! I digress, but I believe the running the vehicle on fumes pushed all the gunk out of the bottom of my tank and into my fuel filter and maybe clogged my CAT & muffler. They told me that I needed to replace the CAT and muffler and that the truck won't even start now. It started once, then stalled and won't start and that I need to tow it somewhere else to do the repair... So, I am trying to figure out if they caused this problem by running it on empty, when it wasn't doing any of this prior to dropping it off. I freaking drove it there. Now it won't start or if it does start, it stalls. My question is this: should I change the fuel filter & put a CAT cleaner in the gas tank and try to start it again... if it will start and drive, is it fixed or is this temporary and I will still have to replace the CAT and possibly the muffler?
I bought the truck 9 months ago with 200K (+) miles on it, because the under carriage was very clean... almost no rust at all & the guy claimed he fixes and maintains his own vehicles... he had an old cherry red hot rod in the garage, so I believed him. My wife said don't be so naive, he spends all his time on the hot rod and this vehicle only gets attention if it breaks down... like a house builder never remodels or repairs his own home, because he is busy building or renovating other peoples homes... she was right. On the drive home 100+ miles the alternator went and we had to limp all the way to the closest Auto Zone which was 50 miles away... she said I was driving like Mr. Toad when he gets that car from the crooks in the bar... again, she was right, and it was I suppose amusing if I wasn't so worried about being stranded in the backwoods of VA on my way to the Parts store... we were able to charge it at one Auto Zone, to get us to the next place, because they didn't have my alternator in stock... anyways... I have since replaced ALL the wheel bearing hub assemblies, both headlights, the plastic strip on the rear door that was cracked, the rear door handle mechanism, 4 new tires, 4 new slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads, calipers, & tire sensors, the alternator, a battery, the rear differential was dry so I took care of that, the transfercase fluid was changed, all the O2 sensors, MAFS, EGR valve, 2 fuel injectors, all the spark plugs and coil packs, and 2 fuel injector connectors, a window motor in the rear, engine oil & filter changes as needed, and AMMCO added 2 qts of transmission fluid to my tranny because it was low... (they don't change tranny fluid on vehicles with high miles because it causes more problems)... it is my wifes opinion that as long as the tranny or engine doesn't quit on us if we replace the CAT and muffler that we have already replaced all the items that normally get replaced by now and it should go another 100K as long as we take care of it... I JUST HAVE TO GET IT ROLLING AGAIN!!! AMMCO did assure me that the tranny was actually fine and the CAT and muffler will cost way less than a transmission repair, rebuild or replacement. So... is it worth replacing the CAT & muffler? or should I just tow it home, replace the fuel filter, add CAT cleaner and see if it starts and drives? or should I suck it up, tow it to the closes Muffler shop and invest another $1500+ in the vehicle? Purchased for $4500, put all those new parts in... should I throw in the towel or keep it running? Reluctant to buy another vehicle since I can't afford a new car yet, and will be buying another used vehicle to replace it. She wants to replace the CAT & muffler & fuel filter... she's probably right. I suppose. Any suggestions???
I had the cats on one side of my 2002 V8 XLT catastrophically fail when driving down an interstate highway. It sounded like the transmission scrambled its guts into a million pieces and lost 90% of it power in a split second. It cost over $1k to get it repaired which is far better than a transmission replacement.
 






OK, the fuel switch was tripped. We can start the truck, but it's rough and extremely low RPM's and barely registers when you press the accelerator. Little to no power... just idles very rough. Don't know how to check fuel pressure. Do I need a tool for that? Just had it towed home for now so I can hook up the code reader in the morning. I didn't even try to put it into gear to see if it would move, because then I would have to push it back by myself to have it towed. Will let you know what new codes pop in the morning. Thanks for your help so far!
 






I had the cats on one side of my 2002 V8 XLT catastrophically fail when driving down an interstate highway. It sounded like the transmission scrambled its guts into a million pieces and lost 90% of it power in a split second. It cost over $1k to get it repaired which is far better than a transmission replacement.
Yes, I was very pleased that AMMCO said it's not the transmission! Luckily, once I am able to figure out what made the CAT go bad and fix it, I can take it in and have the new ones (3) put on for $750 installed... I assume they are going to cut out the old ones and weld the new ones into place. I saw that if you get the entire thing as one piece that it costs over $2000 just for the part... so, I'll let the muffler guys do this part, but I plan on doing the rest. I suspect I will be replacing the fuel pump & filter to begin to prevent anymore junk from clogging the new CAT. At this point not sure what else I will need to do to get it going again to drive it to the shop for CAT install... it's actually going to be cheaper to let them do it.
 






Check fuel pump inertia switch. Check fuel pressure.

Report back.

OK, the fuel switch was tripped. We can start the truck, but it's rough and extremely low RPM's and barely registers when you press the accelerator. Little to no power... just idles very rough. Don't know how to check fuel pressure. Do I need a tool for that? Just had it towed home for now so I can hook up the code reader in the morning. I didn't even try to put it into gear to see if it would move, because then I would have to push it back by myself to have it towed. Will let you know what new codes pop in the morning. Thanks for your help so far!
 






OK, just checked for new codes and this is what I got:
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0207 - Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 7
extremely low RPMs and barely registers when you press the gas pedal. Idles very rough... Not sure what to do now. What do I check, or
replace next?
 






Yes, I was very pleased that AMMCO said it's not the transmission! Luckily, once I am able to figure out what made the CAT go bad and fix it, I can take it in and have the new ones (3) put on for $750 installed... I assume they are going to cut out the old ones and weld the new ones into place. I saw that if you get the entire thing as one piece that it costs over $2000 just for the part... so, I'll let the muffler guys do this part, but I plan on doing the rest. I suspect I will be replacing the fuel pump & filter to begin to prevent anymore junk from clogging the new CAT. At this point not sure what else I will need to do to get it going again to drive it to the shop for CAT install... it's actually going to be cheaper to let them do it.
The cats can fail for structural reasons and not from a failure of another part. This was the case with mine. Once the new Y pipe was installed all the codes cleared. Also, it is probably impossible to diagnose any other fuel related issues until the cats are replaced.
 






I have recently replaced all the oxygen sensors on both sides, up and downstream. Actually, I had AMMCO replace them because I couldn't get to them very easily. After they installed them they took it for a test drive but ran out of gas and had to push the truck back to the shop. (Not important where this shop is, not trying to bash them for not noticing the tank was on E... probably a newbie mechanic... it happens, I guess.) Anyway, I only mention this because I do not know if this is coming into play for this code popping. The vehicle after they got it to the shop wouldn't stay running or didn't start, not sure which they said, but on an earlier thread, I was told to check to see if the fuel shut off was tripped and it was. So I cleared it and towed it home. Still, the engine was idling rough and RPMs were very low, so no power to drive it. AMMCO wanted it towed out of their shop as they decided they could not fix it because they said it was the CATs that needed to be replaced and the muffler too. But I suspected perhaps the fuel system was clogged because they drove it on E and maybe all the gunk at the bottom of the tank clogged my fuel pump and filter. I also replaced 3 fuel injector connectors, because I also suspected that when I rewired them I did it wrong, and anyway... the engine smoothed out, not perfect, but not as bad as it was. I still have to replace the fuel pump & filter, but I might just return the fuel pump if it is actually not clogged, because I am having a heck of a time getting the line from the fill to the tank disconnected... Right now, the truck is throwing the following code: P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit. Bank 1. Sensor 1. (Upstream sensor on the driver's side).... anybody know what I need to fix now? Should I proceed to replace the fuel pump? & Filter? ... also, I put CAT cleaner in the tank too... do y'all think I still need to replace the CATs & muffler as well? Does anybody have any suggestions on what I need to fix now to clear this code? Before I proceed with any other part replacements...
VEHICLE SPECS:
2005 - 4x4 - V-8 - 4.6L - XLT - 4 Door - Tow Package - 200,000(+) MILES
 












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