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06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early?




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Glad I found this thread -- I have a 2007 Mountaineer with the V8 and will be tackling this task in the near future. Hopefully the tips I've read here will work for me as well.
 






Do the coils have to be changed with the plugs or can I change the plugs early to try to avoid the breakage issue but continue to use the original coils until they really go bad?
 






You can and should reuse your coils.
 






I am stil on 8 original coils 06 EB v8, 131k miles
 






You can and should reuse your coils.

Thanks. So there's no technical reason the coils MUST be changed? i.e. they get damaged on removal? I'm getting a really fair quote from the dealer to switch out the plugs while they're doing a head gasket job (at a way premature 53,000 miles!) but they say they have to change the coils too, no choice. BS?
 






What causes the coil failures?
 






I just changed my spark plugs on my 07 Ex XLT 4.6L . I was 7 for 7 without breaking them and the last one broke. I followed the TSB and I guess i got lucky. At 85k the electrode was preaty worn down. I went with autolite replacements. The Lisle tool did it's job well and I guess I will try to sell it on Craigs list and or ebay. I don't see myself doing this job on this truck again. It was fairly easy but when you have to buy a $100 tool and the plugs are over $10 each that is a joke for the consumer.
 






Guys, does anyone know the proper torque used when replacing the plugs? I'm in the middle of replacing my plugs for the first time and just realized that the TSB doesn't state what to torque the new plugs at. I've been searching here and on other sites and see anywhere from 15 to 30 pounds and everywhere in-between...not exactly confidence inspiring information.
 






I've heard 18-20# ..
 






I've heard 18-20# ..

Thanks. I torqued them to about 15/16 pounds, but I'm open to other opinions.
I might call the dealer tomorrow, but I don't know if they will tell me.

The good news is - I got all 8 plugs out with no breakage! I had purchased the Lisle tool to have on hand just in case things didn't work out well. It's going back to Amazon. I used the Motorcraft Carburetor cleaner like the TSB states, let the stuff soak for a good hour, soaked up the excess before removing the plugs, and gently loosened and tightened the plugs back and forth like the TSB states....took my time, and everything worked out well.
I installed 8 new E-3 plugs after applying the anti-seize, took it for a test ride up a very steep hill, and all seems good.
 






Just a note of caution, I reapplied the anti-sieze after 32k miles and all was already gone. So I would do it every 25k.
 






Just a note of caution, I reapplied the anti-sieze after 32k miles and all was already gone. So I would do it every 25k.

When I replaced the plugs, I followed the TSB from Ford which recommended applying anti-seize to only the lower (smooth) portion of the plug....but I'm now wondering if I should have even bothered applying the anti-seize at all.
Since the replacement spark plugs are now 1-piece design, the real issue was dealing with the hassle of removal if they broke. It shouldn't happen now with the redesigned plugs. And if the anti-seize ends up fouling a plug or creating more of a 'mess' as it gets burnt onto the plug since it's more directly inside the combustion chamber, I won't be too happy. Just a thought....and I'm admittedly, nothing more than a weekend mechanic.

Just a side note....

I just spoke with my local Ford dealer. They were nice enough to provide the proper torque setting for the spark plugs in the 4.6L engine: 25 ft lbs.
 






I would still apply it. I did not have isssues with foul spark. But even with one piece design, remember that your head sparkplug ports are still so tight and close to the electrode that they may bind. Mine gave me some resistance, and I had some cold sweat drops on my forehead :)
 






I would still apply it. I did not have isssues with foul spark. But even with one piece design, remember that your head sparkplug ports are still so tight and close to the electrode that they may bind. Mine gave me some resistance, and I had some cold sweat drops on my forehead :)

Oh, I had plenty of resistance! I put away my 12" ratchet and grabbed my Gorilla wrench. I almost gave up before I started - and then I remembered I had the Gorilla wrench to use for changing tires.

My thought is - I doubt Ford used anti-seize during the assembly, and I still got mine out. Since I don't plan on having to replace the plugs again, to me it doesn't make sense to go through the extra effort of taking them out every 25K miles just so they are easier to take out. Kind of like washing your car every day just so it never gets really dirty. I'd rather wait and just clean it when it really needs it. ....I don't know if that is the greatest analogy, but you get the picture, right? :)
 






so i just got a 08 built in 6/2008. I can not find the engine build date on the motor... im hoping being a mid year 08 it should have a newer motor...

Any thoughts?
i have 43K miles now.
 






Just had mine changed at 60000. One broke and plugs were also quite worn.
 






Wow, on 08 ?

What's the build date ?
 






yes please whats your build date on the door?
i could not fine one on the engine so im hoping the door is close enough.
 



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Date inside door is 08/2007.
 






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