06 2WD XLT Brakes Engaging at Highway Speed

[g5IGUWg5s]

On Monday, after 60 miles of highway driving, I began to notice that my brakes were engaging on their own without pushing on the brake pedal. It was subtle at first, but after 5 more miles there was a lot of noise.

My best guess is that the squealing, popping and shuddering sounds were coming from the Driver Rear and Passenger Front.

Yesterday, I purchased and installed new rotors, brake pads, guide pins, caliper bolts, pad clips and rubber bushings (thinking that the slide pins were causing issues). Parts cost was $406.77.

Today, I drove 30 miles without issue and then it started happening again. I could tell that both front brakes were being engaged briefly, but it was very apparent that the Driver Rear was sticking and making the most noise.

I parked at my destination and did a visual inspection and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But, all of my rotors were warm/hot to touch.

Should I replace front and/or rear calipers? Master cylinder? Brake lines? Brake booster? I'm not where to go from here. Thanks in advance for any insight!

 

[michael loibl]

I have a feeling your Control track stability control system is malfunctioning, and improperly applying individual brakes to correct a stability issue that does not exist. I have seen several times where this is caused because the ABS rings on the front or rear axle shafts come loose and give an erotic signal to the sensors. That would be a good thing to check before you replace any more parts

 

[tripplec]

You can likely stop it by pressing the ESC off button (temporary fix)
Was any work done prior to this happening especially the front end. Does it track straight on the road or do you have to have the wheel off level for this compensating?

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

I have a feeling your Control track stability control system is malfunctioning, and improperly applying individual brakes to correct a stability issue that does not exist. I have seen several times where this is caused because the ABS rings on the front or rear axle shafts come loose and give an erotic signal to the sensors. That would be a good thing to check before you replace any more parts

Good thinking! Do you think the problem should go away if I disable traction control using the button on the dash? I'll try that in a bit.

I replaced the driver's side rear CV axle back in Nov 2014 due to a broken tone ring. Both rear axle tone rings look good visually. When the tone ring busted and wasn't reading properly the wrench light and ABS light were on.

 

[tripplec]

Its likely as mentioned the traction control system thinking you're in trouble!!! ARE YOU, LOL
ESC OFF should turn off the safety system which resets back to on again when you restart the vehicle. If the wheel is off center driving straight it call also think you're in a skid, in trouble loosing control. It will kick in and do its thing including momentary braking etc. Thats why I mentioned it. Otherwise that sensor may not be working, or damaged (a guess as a repair was done there)

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

You can likely stop it by pressing the ESC off button (temporary fix)
Was any work done prior to this happening especially the front end. Does it track straight on the road or do you have to have the wheel off level for this compensating?

Awesome, I'll try disabling ESC shortly and report back. They're doing construction in my neighborhood and I had a nail in my Passenger Rear tire on 10/17/16 and a nail in my Passenger Front on 10/25/16. Both tires have been replaced/repaired and there weren't any issues between then and now. It tracks straight on the road except during wind gusts on I-65

 

[tripplec]

PS There maybe a long full off if the button is held in for 6 sec or more. Check the owners manual. This is turned off by many who venture in deep snow and the tires need to spin better to plow through rather than have the system kick in and apply brakes hampering their progress. Manual is full of good info.

 

[tripplec]

guest etc don't matter it only if the steering is off center for a while and you aren't turning. If tie rod ends are replaced and not right you're pulling one way causing the problem. Been there on another vehicle which has this tech. Took a few beers to figure out why it was turning on after a repair I did. I resolved it in the end ...

 

[swshawaii]

Good idea disabling ESC and test driving first. If no improvement, you didn't happen to make this surprisingly common mistake? Often times an owners SO, friend, or inexperienced "brokechanic" trying to help will make this boneheaded goof that's not reversible without a COMPLETE brake system overhaul and huge expense. Hope not.

What Happens When Power Steering Fluid Is Put In The Brakes

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

Pressed the AdvanceTrac with RSC button momentarily and symptoms were still present. After that I pressed the AdvanceTrac with RSC button for five seconds to disable the brake traction control and the symptoms persisted.

Drove it to the local dealership on my lunch break. Waiting on the diagnostic report ...

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

@swshawaii I hope I didn't make any mistakes, but anything's possible.

The dealer determined the wheel bearings are going bad and causing the issues and that there aren't any codes or error messages being generated. They quoted $2,550 to replace all four wheel bearings. After I pressed them for more information they indicated the front right wheel bearing was in most need of repair.

Does that mean their theory is that the wheel speed sensor is getting irregular data and causing the traction control system to respond erratically? It's odd there aren't any indicator lights flashing or illuminated if this is the case.

I'm going to order the part and replace it this weekend and see what happens.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I had the same issue.

My car basically stopped and did not let me go forward even if I gunned it.

Passenger front wheel hub replacement fixed the issue. Use Motorcraft part, don't buy those cheap $ 99 hubs, or you will be doing this job again.

The dealer is full of BS trying to do all 4, but that's their purpose in life - to make money on people who can't do things themselves.

Luckily, most of us here can do some of that

 

[tripplec]

If the speed sensors inside the bearing then yes. I had ABS problems with a GM that had them inside when the bearing is well worn (it moved around obviously bad). Timken bearing are great if you want a premium unit.

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

@Explorer_PL thanks for sharing! I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who's experienced this issue. Some of my friends were looking at me funny when I told them the Explorer was braking on its own.

@tripplec I checked the Timken part but I think I'm going to go with a Motorcraft but I'm seeing conflicting part numbers.

I've seen the part listed as HUB-67 and HUB-29. My Explorer was built on 04/20/2006 so it looks like I need HUB-67. Will this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A2GV3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, will I need any other parts?

 

[Explorer_PL]

I have replaced probably 10 or 15 on mine by now (over 240k miles). Motorcraft uses Timken, get HUB 67. HUB 29 is same part with different ABS wire and extra bolts that you do not necessarily need.
It takes me now about 45 minutes to do 1, and I cheat
I leave the ABS wire in place, just disconnect it at the hub, and reuse it.
But in your case I would replace the harness as well.

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

@Explorer_PL Right on, thank you! The advice is much appreciated. Ordering HUB-67 now. I'll consider it a success if it doesn't consume my whole Saturday. Less than an hour is quite impressive, cheating or no cheating!

 

[tripplec]

I have replaced probably 10 or 15 on mine by now (over 240k miles). Motorcraft uses Timken, get HUB 67. HUB 29 is same part with different ABS wire and extra bolts that you do not necessarily need.
It takes me now about 45 minutes to do 1, and I cheat
I leave the ABS wire in place, just disconnect it at the hub, and reuse it.
But in your case I would replace the harness as well.

I am a bit lost on the HUB lingo. Is that the actual Timken part #?
HUB 29 is the preferred item used by part houses?

That is a lot of bearing to go through. We went through 3 in the 2002, 1st two were the cheap ones but lasted quite a while but 3rd was Timken and still rolling.

 

[tripplec]

I don't know about this Explorer but one hold back with the 2002 was the big NUT locking in the front shaft spline which has a nut quite large and not part of 99% socket sets. I believe I used a 1-1/4" as 1-1/8" wasn't big enough. You can see/verify that easily (removing wheel hub cap or wheel at the most.) I bought my big socket set from Princess Auto for these situation. Otherwise you should be ok with typical tools and muscles. Air gun helps.

 

[swshawaii]

^ 32mm (Front)

Front and Rear Axle Nut sizes? | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serio

 

[tripplec]

1-1/4" pretty much, A big sucker never the less