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08 explorer IRS Locker options?

08Exploder

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 ford explorer
Hello,

I have searched multiple places and can not find the info I need. I know there are 2 lockers available but they are not carrier style lockers example ausie locker. I would like to know if i could put a 2003-2004 mustang Trac Loc carrier into my explorer. I want more of a limited slip design cause my wife drives the truck more than I do and if she heres clicking ill never hear the end of it.

Truck info
2008 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHV 4x4 3.55 Gear Ratio.

Thanks
Tom
 



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Try the Eaton Truetrac gear driven limited slip unit, part number 912A584. I have seen them for a good price at Rockauto.com, and you can use the Explorerforum discount code there too.

Here's a thread where a guy put similar units in both the front and rear differentials on his 2008 and had great results:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317166


Hello,

I have searched multiple places and can not find the info I need. I know there are 2 lockers available but they are not carrier style lockers example ausie locker. I would like to know if i could put a 2003-2004 mustang Trac Loc carrier into my explorer. I want more of a limited slip design cause my wife drives the truck more than I do and if she heres clicking ill never hear the end of it.

Truck info
2008 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHV 4x4 3.55 Gear Ratio.

Thanks
Tom
 






Try the Eaton Truetrac gear driven limited slip unit, part number 912A584. I have seen them for a good price at Rockauto.com, and you can use the Explorerforum discount code there too.

Here's a thread where a guy put similar units in both the front and rear differentials on his 2008 and had great results:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317166

I saw that post and was very interested in it but it was hard to follow cause his truck has advanced trac and mine doesn't so I don't know if that makes a difrence and as far as rock auto love them for replacement parts but they want 400 for that trac loc which you can get at a mustang store for only 230 so unless that one is special that's outrageous lol I wish this was all cut and dry I hate to buy something expensive and not be able to return it because it doesn't fit. I have a 1987 f150 8.8 track loc laying around only problem is it needs the spider gears to have the slits for the c clips on the cv axles. What shocks me is that so far I only saw that one guy put a locker in and nobody else when this truck isn't offered as a lsd.

Thanks
Tom
 












Here is the link to the carrier I'm looking at I tried emailing this company got no answer but could take a couple of days. It says for IRS but it's clearly referencing the 2003-2004 cobra.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...ne-88-carbondisc-FPReplacementV1&T5_Var3=blue

Thanks
Tom

it says 31 spline rear... and the explorer is also a 31 spline rear..... I hope this works out because many people will probably love you for doing this and writing it up! AFAIK the insides of a live axle and irs are the same carriers ... you just get lucky because the 31 splines are stronger so trucks get them and so did 03-04 cobras
 






Yeah lol well I actually had ford rebuild my rear first last week cause it had a bearing noise and I have a aftermarket warenty which expires this month so took advantage of it only cost me 300 for a 1500 repair but now the question comes in most people rebuild there rears when they take them out for any reason like a lsd install I feel I should be able to get away with just replacing out the carrier and new side carrier bearings and just recheck backlash with out changing any shims I should be lucky! I would think anyone else have a take on this ? I'm going to use ford parts for everything down to the sealant but was woundering that I shouldn't need to touch the pinion or seals or even the case bearings for the axles all are new. If it's confirmed I will order the trac lok and bearing should only cost me 300 for everything and then I'll write up a install/removal mods etc.

Thanks
Tom
 






Well nobody has responded to my theroroy well any how I ordered all the parts and stuff total like 340 tax and shipping and not this weekend but following will put it in and I'll post pics and instructions that's if my theory works and is correct I'm pretty sure though this should work and turns out my truck has advance trac and it will co work with each other etc I should see an improvement on towing and gravel and pulling my boat out off the ramp but any who if it doesn't work I have a f150 that needs a new diff I'll put it in there

Tom
 






Here is an update got the rear out of truck and finally got the carrier out of the case I had to make a case spreader if anyone doing this will need to make one or borrow one cause in order to set up the rear properly you need it to account for thermal expansion. When I'm all done I'll post pics and instructions on how I did it and what the ford manual calls for I took shortcuts cause the less bolts you take off the less chance of something breaking
 






Well second update I can confirm that the diff I bought at that mustang site listed above will fit in a 2008 explorer everything went together smoothly and am so happy with the results especially since it's a low buget limited slip as compared to 500+ lol however it does require mechanical knowledge to do this and what's nice is its a direct fit no cutting or modifying in anyway the cv axles clicked and locked in the carrier is the right length dimensions etc I will be writing up the install with pics shortly prob tomorrow so if anyone is following hope I'm helping or informing

Tom
 






its awesome that this is going great! I didn't think there would be a problem, it looked like a perfect fit
 






How I built it

Tools needed to rebuild diff

Impact gun / half inch drive
Breaker bar
Impact gun / 3/8 drive
Breaker bar
12mm 12point socket
Basic 8mm-19mm 3/8
Basic 12mm-24mm 1/2
24mm wrench
3/4 1/2 drive socket
Punch set
Pry bars
2 blocks of wood
Dial indicator
Jack and stands
1/2 torque wrench
3/8 torque wrench
Thread sealer
Steel hammer
Rubber hammer
8.8 case spreader
New ring bolts
New carrier bearings and races
Shim set in case
Dielectric grease
4oz friction modifier
2 qts 75-140 full synthetic
Tool to add fluid pump style with hose
Sealer
Gear marking compound
Scraper or razor blade
2 cans brake clean
Paper towels


I started with raising the vehicle and taking off the rear tires.
I then took brakes off. However this is how the manual tells you to do but I recommend the first thing you do is after the wheels remove the driveshaft with the 12mm 12 point socket cause if you do this last when you put car in park or neutral to lock the drive shaft to get it out you may over extend the rear brakes cause they are removed so do that first. Then remove the rear discs.

After remove the connectors going to the rear abs sensor let them hang loose around the hubs.
Then remove the 3 bolts securing the trailing arm to the knuckle the top one and the 2 bottom ones

Then slide out the rear axles enough to get them past the c rings and swing the whole assembly till its out of your way and the axles can slide out and be out of way.

Next drop spare tire.

Then remove spare tire heat shield.

Then drain diff fluid

Now place floor jack snug under diff and undo the 4 bolts to the diff.

Lower diff and remove from truck.


Place on bench and remove cover bolts. Place pry bar in a suitable place and be very careful light prying and use rubber hammer to tap side of case it's aluminum it will crack if too much force.

Once cover is off place in a stand up position by using special tools to hold it to bench if you have if not will be difficult but still manageable. Place the case spreader on the diff and spread case to .030 inch use a dial indicator and do it twice undo pressure and reapply to .030.

Next take the carrier bearing caps off and mark them which way they go and which side each is and which direction each one is and keep bolts inside of cap so they don't get mixed up.

Next grab 2 pieces of wood to pry against and use 2 pry bars might need 2 people I had to and pry up till it pops out also mark one side of the shims in case they all fall out so you know which side is witch if you need to you also can remove dowel screw in carrier and slide the pin out and remove the spider gears and side gears to have more room for leverage.

Once out inspect casing for any damages etc. remove from bench or flip over and clean out thoroughly and dry with towels. Also clean off old sealant.
Next get carrier and press on new bearings till the bearings hit side of case make sure you press on where the inside diameter ring and not outside or you will damage bearing.

Once on put little oil on bearings and races to keep them lubed.
Next remove old ringbolts from carrier and use rubber hammer to knock off ring make sure your hand is under it so you don't damage teeth.

Next place ring on new carrier and use new bolts and tighten in cris cross pattern to spec 94 lb-ft and then place carrier with new races into the assembly first place original shims in place and slowly drop it into place it's tedious but it will go in if its stubborn you can put caps on both sides and slowly tighten each bolt a little at a time on both sides to force it in and then remove caps and check to make sure it's all the way down and tap shims in with a punch lightly.
Once in place put caps on and tightens both sides till snug and torque to spec 82 lb-ft

Then make sure the bolt for the carrier pin is tightened down.

Now check for backlash. Place gauge on ring and case and check for .008-.012 and not vary more than .004 between points measured, if in spec move to checking ring pattern if not take apart again and shim accordingly.

If in spec place gear marking compound on ring gear on both sides of teeth and on 3 teeth and rotate 5 revolutions and look at pattern it should show the compound in the middle contacting not to one side etc.

Once checked out place sealer on the cover and tighten to spec 24 lb-ft

Add 1 quart of oil with friction modifier to ease having to put it in while in truck and then reverse procedure for reinstallation.


__________________________________________________________________
Bolts requiring thread locker any that have it on when you removed it like the drive shaft bolts.

Use dialectic grease on the 2 abs sensor connectors and apply a light coat of it on the wire for the spare to keep it lubed so when you use it in 10 years it will move again.

Make sure lug nuts are torque to 100 ft-lb

Make sure front axle bolts are torqued to 76 lb-ft and rear are torqued to 111 lb-ft

Fill rear diff to proper level with a special tool to suck and force fluid out.

When done perform a figure 8 and do it 8 times in an abandoned parking lot to work in the modifier.

Then bring to a shop to perform an alignment it will be out.
__________________________________________________________________

Here are pics that i put on a drive idk how to upload pics here if you even can.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxwABT1ITWImbHozaWtuNjc2aGc&usp=sharing

and here is the word doc of clips and instructions from a manual.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxwABT1ITWImTHAyR2hnOFkxcW8&usp=sharing

Hope this helps someone doing the same thing I did!:)
Tom
 






Thanks for sharing, Tom.
 






cobra terminator parts to the rescue for a cheaper alternative limited slip! love it!
 






Yup saves you 200 from a torsion or even eaton lsd works like a charm super pleased it's quiet like an open but there when you need it and with advance trac as a back up I should never get stuck as long as I'm not stuck on the frame lol
 






Yup saves you 200 from a torsion or even eaton lsd works like a charm super pleased it's quiet like an open but there when you need it and with advance trac as a back up I should never get stuck as long as I'm not stuck on the frame lol

I've been lurking for a while and I just registered to let you know how awesome this is.
Thank you so much for doing the legwork and taking the time to do the writeup.
As a new 4th gen explorer owner I was concerned about the lack of lsd.
 






I've been lurking for a while and I just registered to let you know how awesome this is.
Thank you so much for doing the legwork and taking the time to do the writeup.
As a new 4th gen explorer owner I was concerned about the lack of lsd.

Thank you, and I bought mine 6 months ago with the same concern couldn't believe it wasn't offered with one, but at least now I know and because this limited slip worked any locker or lsd will work for the 8.8 as long as in its description says compatible with IRS because of the cv axle clips now some people argue that doesn't matter but to be honest you don't want the cv axle sliding in and out of the diff while driving it will ruin the seals and bearings quicker. Just take note you will need a case spreader and dial indicator and a few torque wrenches to properly do this job. getting the diff out took me only 2 hours getting it all set up and dialed in took me 8 hours and putting it back in took 3 with torquing it all to spec.

Tom
 






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