How to: - 1.5" body lift for less than $50 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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the metal part of the rear bumper (has the tow hitch in it) is attached to the frame of the truck, not the body. So the body gets lifted but the metal part of the bumper doesn't..meaning it interferes with the fitting of the plastic bumper cover (which is also part of the body).

The bumper flip is more for the 3" body lift....essentially moves the bumper height back up higher so it lines back up with the bumper cover. Might not be necessary or workable with the 1.5" lift....I never did it....just trimmed the lower lip of the bumper cover to allow everything to fit.

You might be able to squeeze the bumper cover back on without adjusting the bumper itself by working the cover back on on from one side of the vehicle to the other as you install all the fittings back on that hold it in place...drunkenmonkey did this and could tell you more about it. Or you could try the bumper flip and see if that works.
 



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So I parked next to an XLT while at home depot buying paint for my pillars the other day. I wanted to do a side by side comparison of the 1.5" lift next to stock. Here's a couple pics.

1303124470-picsay.jpg

1303124326-picsay.jpg

1303125870-picsay.jpg


The difference isn't huge by any means. But I like it.

Are those stock tires 235/70/16?? I agree that the difference is not huge but it looks a lot better than the stock.... in special the 1st pic... good job man!
 






Thanks Ronin for clearing that up. Are there any other problems or areas that i will have trouble with?

And the pics drunkenmonkey posted are great! I love how you can get that much of a difference in height just with doing this cheap body lift.
 






The only area of trouble I would say was holding the threaded "pucks" in place that the body bolts screw into while removing the bolts. Some people said they used a pipe wrench....didn't work so well for me.

I used a set of WIDE jaw vice grips and that worked great.

Make sure to disconnect the steering shaft before lifting the body. The bolt holding the two halves of that together can be pretty tight.
 






Thanks Ronin! I will be ordering my blocks this week along with my K&N intake. Hope to get it installed soon!
 






i just got my blocks in today... and im having them cut down either tonite or tom. I have a couple of questions about the fan shroud that needs to be trimmed. Or if someone can just take a picture of where to trim it at. And do i have to trim some of the bumper where the hitch is. Pictures of the fan shroud and the rear bumper would be nice. Im going out of town this weekend so im jus dropping my truck off at my backyard mechanics house... if any of yall can help me out on this would be helpful. i just want to let my mechanic know all the details before he gets in to the process...
 






Can't help you with pics, but where the shroud will need trimming is the opening for the fan on the bottom half. Pretty much the bottom 1/3 of the curve, maybe an inch max from there.

For the rear bumper I am told you can get by with no trimming at all, just start on one side and gradually work it on from end to end.
 






ok thanks for that... hopefully it will go good for my mechanic.. i would climb under there and do it myself but i have to much sh*t to do and i personally just want to get it done...Lets hope everythings a breeze... ill post pictures as soon as i get the truck back. Might see if he can get my exhaust done as well...
 






G'day fella's. Just a quick question about whether the fact that I have a t bar shifter will change anything on the install? Will I need any extension for the shifter or do you's reckon I'll be right? Cheer's
 












Yep that the terminology I was chasing. Thank's mate, I only thought of it last night! Appreciate the speedy reply.
 






Looking to replace all the bolts when i add the extra inch an a half ... does anyone know how big the bolts are that are supposed to be re-used..And is grade 8 bolts strong enough for the body lift???
 






Grade 8 is fine...that's what I used for the new bolts. I am sure the stock ones that get re-used are plenty strong.

12mm x 1.75 is the size/thread pitch of the bolts, which is the same as the stock ones. Length obviously varies...I think I measured the stock ones at some point but I don't have the measurements anymore. Are you worried about re-using the stock ones?
 






yea and im trying to have all new bolts on... but if it doesnt make a big difference then i guess i wont go for it.. i was just at my local hardware store today and they had all the bolts but the guy said that he doesnt recommend the grade 8 bolts for automotive use, he said that the grade 8s could bend within time and he wouldnt feel right selling them to me for what my plans were when using them. He said something about 12-1 grade bolts that were used for suspension and automotive use.. which ive never heard of any 12-1 bolts but who knows... im just looking for the safest route to go when doing this.. you know what i mean
 






I think anything more than grade 8 would be overkill for body mounts; even the ones that come with the PA-883 3" lift are grade 8. Re-using the stock ones is fine where the first post indicates they should be used. I don't think adding 1.5" lift blocks is going to significantly change how much shear stress the bolts get subjected to, if at all.

Some bolts like the one for the tow hitch in the 3rd gen use grade 10.5, but I don't think the body mounts are going to ever come under that kind of stress.
 






help!

Finally I got my blocks and bolts and I'm ready to lift my X, I already took out the front/rear bumpers, lower fan, disconnect steering shaft and I'm able to see all 10 places where I need to insert the blocks.

But I have a couple of questions, do I need to lift the X while removing the old bolts? Sh*#@, I forgot the second question but I'll post it as soon as I remember it.

I appreciate your help.. :salute:
 






Remove the bolts completely from one side first, and loosen the other side almost all the way, just dont remove the bolts.

then jack up the side that the bolts are removed on. Put in blocks, insert new bolts, lower it back down. Tighten that side partway.

Then remove the stock bolts from the other side. Jack it up, put in the blocks, insert the new bolts, lower it down. Tighten that side down all the way, then go back and tighten the other side.
 






Thank you Ronin, I have the rear bumper bolts as you mentioned, one side completely out and the other one loose almost all the way.

I'm removing the right side first but some pucks are giving a hard time, I already put some WD40 on all bolts but some pucks are moving at the same time that the bolts and I don't have the wide jaw vice grips so I'm struggling with a pipe wrench... I read that heating the pucks will help, is that true?
 






IMPORTANT: I highly reccommend trimming 1.5 inches off the lower fan shroud and reinstalling it.

i did the 1.5" bodylift back in the winter with the help of ronin. me, being lazy, decided to not put the lower shroud back on. well, it took awhile, but after about 5 months, the hose going from my coolant tank to the bottom metal thingy under the radiator blew a good size hole in it and shot a good amount of coolant on to the engine and smoked out my garage.

The hose as it turned out, was rubbing on the closest pulley and over time it rubbbed/burnt a hole in the heat sheathing and almost through the hose untill the pressure became too much

$100 for the hose and labor. i just put about 15 zipties on the new hose to hold it away. im too stubborn to put the lower shrouud back on still

good luck to all!
 



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fofo, yes, heat will help alot. so will another person, one to hold the puck with everything theyve got and the other to loosen the bolt
 






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