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1" Heat Spacer Install- 5.0 GT-40 ( Upper Plennum Removal and Replacement)

MountaineerGreen

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Trick Flow Spacer Install 2001 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0

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My installation will be slightly different from most because I have TMHs. It’s a minor difference, but as a result, I can’t address the EGR tube issue.

This is not a job for the meek; it will take several hours and some perseverance. It’s not a technical or physically challenging install; it can be tedious and frustrating. I hope that this write up will help others do it faster and easier than I did.

These installation instructions are fairly detailed, this is a long read as it is intended for others to install the spacer.

You will need two more bolts the same length as the long ones that come in the kit, they are difficult to find as they are about 7” long.

I did not get pictures all the way through, it was cold and raining, threatening severe weather, when it started taking a long time, I stopped taking pictures, however the ones I have show most of the things you need to know.

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Before you start, open the spacer box and get the two gaskets that come with it. Using the highest temp RTV you can get, spread a very thin layer on the spacer and attach a gasket to each side. Let this sit for a few hours to cure. Make certain you line the gaskets up properly!


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I began by taking off my airbox, MAF and hose. All of this can be disconnected at the clamp on the upper intake elbow using a flat blade screwdriver. Disconnect the wires that go to the MAF and pull the small hose out of the intake tube. Set the assembly to the side. Remove the oil fill tube by squeezing the clamp nearest to the valve cover and remove.

fillneckclamp.JPG


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You should be able to see the EGR tube now. The tube has a nut that goes over an adapter in the manifold or header. Hold the adapter with one wrench and turn the nut with the other. Be sure you back the nut all the way off.

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Next, remove the coil packs. There are 4 bolts that hold the bracket on the block, two on the sides, one on the manifold and one on the throttle bracket. Label, diagram and remove the spark plug wires from the coil packs.

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Disconnect the connectors on each side of the coil packs. On the drivers side pack there is an additional connector near the back of the bracket, disconnect that as well.

coilpackconnectors.JPG


The bracket is held on by three studs and one bolt. Using a 1/2” socket and a 6” extension, remove the nuts from the studs on each side of the bracket. The other stud is on the front of the intake manifold, at the back of the coil pack bracket. Remove the nut for it as well. There is one last bolt on the side of the bracket that holds to the throttle cable bracket. Use a 3/8” (I think) wrench and remove that bolt. It has a large “fender” washer on it. Remove the coil pack.

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With the coil pack gone you will be able to see the front short stud and the front long bolt. Use a ½” wrench or socket to remove these, note that they are not extremely tight.

upperlowerfrontbolts.JPG


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Remove the V8 cover plate on the middle of the manifold. There are two torx screws holding the cover on. Remove the two long bolts that are under the cover.

sixbolts.JPG


At the back of the manifold attached to the firewall is a large electrical connector on a bracket. It is held to the firewall with two bolts. Using an 8mm socket and or wrench remove the two bolts and set them aside. You will need them later.

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The back of the manifold has two bolts just like the front, one long, one short. The long bolt can only be loosened at this point, the firewall prohibits removal. Using a ½” socket and swivel remove the short bolt at the rear of the manifold. There are some vacuum lines and wires in the way, just move them aside gently. Remove the rear short bolt.

boltfirewall.JPG


At this point the manifold should be loose from the lower. I think that it is necessary to remove the manifold to clean the surfaces and move some brackets for fire wall clearance. Start at the passenger side rear of the manifold and unplug the TPS wire, the EGR sensor wire and the other connector near that. There is also a small vacuum line that attaches to the fuel rail that needs to be removed. Lift the rear long bolt slightly and pull the manifold forward. Behind the manifold, dead center of the block is the PVC valve and the vacuum line attached to it. When you pull the manifold in a few minutes remember this hose is there and help guide it out or you will break the “t” fitting! Pull the valve straight up from the block. Lastly the brake booster hose is clamped to a fitting on the back of the manifold, use pliers slide the clamp up the hose and remove the hose. That’s all for the back of the manifold.

Remove the throttle cable plastic cover using an 8mm wrench. Unhook the cruise control cable from over the throttle cable by pulling the throttle slightly open, move the cable away from the other and push the cruise cable forward. There is a peg on the end of the throttle cable that holds the cruise cable. The throttle cable is pushed over a ball on the butterfly lever, so just pop it off gently. Remove the cables from the bracket and keepers on the manifold. The cruise cable is clipped onto the bracket, the throttle passes through. Use pliers to push the throttle cable barbs back so that you can slide it backwards through the bracket. Be careful to not break and clips! With the cables removed, unplug the vacuum line on the driver’s side front. Just above that line is another that is held on by a clip. Slip a screwdriver between the clip and hose and the clip will come out.

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Remove that vacuum line. On the passenger side of the block, there are two hoses that connect to a rail, use pliers to pull the clamps back and remove both hoses, expect some coolant to come out when you pull the hoses off. Now the manifold is ready to come off the lower. Slide it towards the front of the truck, checking for binding, hoses or wires still connected.

coolantconnectors.JPG


The manifold is aluminum, it is light. Don’t drop the manifold or bang it around! I stuffed the openings with blue towels and sopped up the antifreeze that spilled out of the hoses.

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With the manifold out, its time for some modifications. There is a bracket that holds the egr solenoid, which has a round top (see pic). If you leave that as is, the round piece will hit the firewall and prevent you from sliding the manifold all the way back. The bracket is held on by two bolts, loosen the inboard bolt and remove the outer. Pivot the bracket down, but leave the sensor in place. Put the bolt back through the sensor and tighten both bolts back. (See picture)

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Now is a good time to clean or replace the PVC valve since it is so difficult to reach.

Clean both surfaces and check for gasket residue, I sprayed mine down with carb cleaner. My truck had dirt all around the manifold, apparently it sat at some point and wasps built a nest on the manifold.

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Get the spacer with the gaskets attached. Get 2 of the long bolts and drop them in the manifold at the very front and back. Use about ¾” of ¼” rubber hose split down the side at the top of the bolt, just under the head to hold the bolts up slightly. Set the spacer on the lower intake and then set the upper manifold on the spacer. This assembly will need to be slightly forward, and then pushed back. It’s harder than it sounds, so be patient. At this point the upper manifold and spacer should be lined up with the bolts sticking in the spacer slightly. Slide the whole thing back towards the firewall. Before you get it all the way back, reattach the PVC valve to the block and reconnect the wires and hoses at the back side of the manifold. Slide the manifold back more, lifting the big wire running along the firewall to slide the manifold under. Get the upper manifold, spacer and lower lined up, being careful not to rip the gaskets. Start the two bolts that are in the manifold, do not tighten or even snug, just start them. Double check to make sure you have all the rear connections made. Install the other two long bolts in the middle, then the shorter bolts from the kit, just like you took them out. Don’t be concerned with putting the coil pack bracket back on the front stud.

This is very important- do not over torque the bolts! The lower manifold is aluminum as well and you can strip the threads out of it by over tightening the bolts. Just snug all of them up equally, but gently.

Reconnect all front connections, including the TPS. Reconnect the EGR Tube. If you have the headers, this will be easier, if you have the factory manifolds the tube may need to be lengthened. As I said, I didn’t have this problem so I can’t elaborate. Make sure no wires are near the EGR tube as it will melt them.

Get the coil pack bracket and the tab on the back that came off the manifold stud needs to be cut off or bent down. I elected to bend the tab straight down using a bench vice. The choice is yours. You can see in this picture that I bent the bracket straight down-

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Put the smaller bolt with the fender washer back on the bracket if you desire, or don’t, either way it wont be used. Set the coil pack bracket back over the two studs on the sides and put the nuts back on top. That is all you need to hold the bracket. Reattach the connectors to the coil packs. Double check all wires and hoses, and then reattach the spark plug wires to the coil packs using your diagram and labels. Reattach the throttle and cruise control cables to the throttle body. Put the oil fill tube back on. Put the air box, MAF and hose back on to the throttle body, reconnect the small hose from the oil fill tube to the intake tube. Recheck and double check all connections. Look for wires touching hot or moving parts.

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I couldn't find any bolts long enough, so I used all thread and cut it to length. Grabbed the top with pliers and tightened the nuts down.

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Go feel the power!


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I owe a big thanks to jtsmith, he helped me when I got hung up- he is the 5.0 master!
:notworthy
 


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MountaineerGreen

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The whole purpose of this thing is more torque and cooler intake temps. I can definitely say the upper intake is much cooler, even at full operating temps. I can lay my hand on the upper and put my full weight on it!

It feels torqueier by the ole seat of the pants o meter, but that is admittedly unscientific. It feels stronger and revs differently.

I am having a slight idle issue, I don't know if it is because of the spacer, or because I cleaned everything and may have messed up a sensor or something. :dunno: Im still working on that part of it.
 




Turdle

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Good job on the writeup--

I am sure the cooler intake will give you some performance gain--not to mention 8" of intake runner addition should give more torque.
 




MountaineerGreen

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I forgot to mention that if I had this to do again, I would do it when I installed my headers. It made the EGR tube much easier to deal with as it raises the tube up. The headers are already tall, so raising the tube helps. Bob ought to put these as an option with the headers or suggest it. Removing the upper would help ease some of the header install difficulties too.

So buy headers and a spacer and install them both!
 




MountaineerGreen

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Went for a drive this morning and all I can say is holy torque! I guess my PCM adjusted to the changes because my idle seems better, and from 1000-3500 rpm , it pulls like a freight train.

I am having trouble finding bolts for the spacer, right now I am using all tread cut down with nuts on it for my center bolts, nobody in town has any 5/16" bolts longer than 6":rolleyes: I guess ill have to order some.
 




Turdle

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I have some bolts from a gt40 style spacer kit you can have--What exact length do you need???
 




MountaineerGreen

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I have some bolts from a gt40 style spacer kit you can have--What exact length do you need???

I'd have to pull one and measure, I can do that today.

=============================================================
 








'97 V8

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'97 mounty 5.0 4x4 baby!!
where did you get your trick flow from. Mine broke when i dropped my 20ton bottle neck jack on it by accident.
 




MountaineerGreen

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where did you get your trick flow from. Mine broke when i dropped my 20ton bottle neck jack on it by accident.

I got it from Summit, it was ~$60 plus shipping. I looked at ebay stuff, but wasn't sure about the quality of it. With something that important, I didn't want to risk it.
 




410Fortune

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Nice write up!!
I installed the spacer on my 96 explorer, here's a pic of the bolts you will need:

spacerbolts.jpg


spacer in place:
spacer.jpg


as soon as I can clearance my hood the BII will be getting the same treatment, both of my trucks have TM headers, and the BII has the p heads with EGR so I will have to address the new EGR tube lenth as you did. Again nice work and thanks for taking the time to do the wrtie up!
 




MountaineerGreen

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410, thanks for the pics, I am going to go to a specialty bolt store Monday to get the bolts. With the P heads, and headers, the EGR tube is a piece of cake. What purdy valve covers you have!
 




410Fortune

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those are 93 Mustang HO valve covers, required to clear my 1.6 roller rockers :)

My local Ace hardware has all the bolts you will ever need
 




V8BoatBuilder

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Nice writeup, Green!

Jamie, can you please post the bolt dimensions and thread counts?
 








V8BoatBuilder

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Bolts that came with the kit are 5/16" course thread 7" long. I really want a 7 1/2" long bolt, the one that comes with seems too short to me.


Metric or SAE?
 








V8BoatBuilder

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Woops, sorry-

SAE 5/16" dia bolts, standard (course) thread pitch 7" or 7 1/2" long.

It continues to amaze me what bolts are metric, and what bolts are sae on these trucks. One never knows...
 






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V8BoatBuilder

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I guess the motor is still "old school", SAE hardware in most places, where as everything else on mine is metric. :confused: I wonder if the internals of the engine are SAE?

The head bolts, going directly into the block are SAE. I think the header bolts are SAE as well, but the bolts from the headers to the downpipe are metric. Oh Ford...
 




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