14 to 18 MPG @ $4.50 per!! A possible Fix:

[racprops]

Love my 03 4.6 4Wd Explorer XLT.

There is ONE SMALL problem: 14 to 18 MPG @ $4.50 per.

Running a scan gauge II as I have found with a number of cars and trucks: MPG CAN be good, 25 to 32MPG Good IF I can drive at 1500 to 1800RPMs.

Really!

But that means driving around 50 to 55MPH. (Who can drive that slow??)

So I for one have a plan. I will add an OLD idea, an old Borg Warner Overdrive. Removed from behind a old 3 speed with overdrive. These are in reality TWO transmissions bolted together, the Overdrive was s added on second transmission, a two speed with a 1:1 main gear and a .70 second gear. They can be split a part. These were made from 1938 to 1964…millions of them. If you really dig you can find them from $100.00 to $500.00.

Hundreds of them have been done. At time to time companies have made convertor parts to do this.

A company names gear Venders is still making add on second Overdrives at around $3 to 4K.

What this gives you is a MAJOR RPM drop at speed. From about 2240 at 75MPH to 1650 RPMs. This can mean a drop from 16/18MPG to 25 to 30MPG.

Currently no one is doing these conversions to the old B&W OD so I am doing my own. Why? Because I can do this for less than a $1K.

One of the factors is cost VS benefit: the cost of a second OD VS how much will you save. $1K will be paid off much faster than $4K.

It will take a pair of machine shops to do it. I can with a large manual old Lathe do most of it. And with an outside shop cutting the splines convert what was the input to the overdrive from the 3 speed to now have a U joint input so it can be mounted about a foot behind the main output of a transmission. A second drive shaft will be needed from the OD to the rear end.

And on 4WD the brown wire cut out so the front section will not try to cut in with running in 2nd. OD.

I will do a step by step instructions and photos as I do it and share them. And real world results good and/or bad.

I believe I have it 95% worked out. In fact there is only one detail I need.

This question is: Where does a 03 Ford Explorer with a 5R55S get is speed readout, its VSS ?? And at what rate, or pulse rate per second?

To get a corrected speed I will need to know where it is and if it is inside the transmission, from the OSS output, then I may need to rig up one at the back output of the OD.

OR it is at the rear end. (as I have been told by one person…)

If it is in fact at the rear end as part of the four wheel automatic system I and anyone that wants to follow me: we are home free.

Rich

PS this is NO overnight OMG Gas Prices fix. This is a project I have been working on for a number of years. I am doing this kind of set up for my 93 Van as well.

 

[donalds]

Pictures??

 

[racprops]

OK Here are number of what I talked about:

Pictures of my lowered 03 Explorer with a 4.6 5R55S transmission, the Borg Warner overdrives and my adapting a US gear Dual Range to a 4L80E motor home transmission that came with a parking brake drum on its tail shaft. And pair of charts of how the MPH and RPMs add up.

 

[racprops]

I got very lucky, the US Gear Dual Range Over drive was a NOS, New Old Stock, it was never used.

It was a screw up: Sold as fitting a TH400/4L80 BUT its input was made for a Ford C6 transmission and the transmission to transmission adapter was for a Dodge. Plus I got a 4L80 from the same person:

So I figured out how to mate the two.

I had long planed on running a old B&W overdrive in my van. But I feared that it was too weak to tow with, plus I also felt the same about the 4L60 in the van.

This combo it as strong a iron. I can tow in the 4L80 in 3rd, and in US gear OD. (4th.)

Rich

 

[racprops]

So the tail housing of a 4L80 Motor home is the base of my plan on converting a B&W OD: They contain two ball bearings to handle a brake drum, SO I figure they can handle the power driven into a yoke and a adapter like I made for the combo to mate the housing to the OD.

And then machine the gear shaft of the overdrive to run a TH400 yoke. Like I had done to a pair of TH 400 output shafts.

 

[donalds]

Really cool
I think this thread will get lots of attention
Check this out @410Fortune

 

[racprops]

I have not installed either of these yet.

 

[racprops]

Really cool
I think this thread will get lots of attention
Check this out @410Fortune

Can you supply threads??

 

[donalds]

Can you supply threads??

A forum thread is a conversation
But I wouldn't be surprised if someone here can help

Just hang out people will respond because this is interesting

 

[racprops]

Thanks, you suggested I "Check this out @410Fortune"

So I asked why?? And what threads of his I should look into?

Rich

 

[racprops]

Yesterday I looked for yokes to fit the output housing…no luck.

Oddly GM chose to machine their yokes to fit the bearings rather than order bearings to fit a standard 400 yoke.

A standard yoke is 1.90, the bearings are a ID of 1.77. For my van transmissions mate up I machined my yoke/coupler to fit.

I was hopeful I would find a yoke to fit the bearings. So far I have not found any.

So for my B&W OD I will again just machine the yoke to fit.

So as a TH400/4L80 yoke is only one I have found to use I checked the input shafts of the B&W R10 and R11 Overdrives.

The R11 is at this point the only one with a thick enough shaft that can be machines down to allow TH400 Splines to be machined into them.

The shaft turned down to match the nonsplined section is 1.374, the size needed to fit a Th400 yoke is 1.364.

And it is 5 inches long, a good size.

The R10’s 1.136 too small in dia. And only 3 ¼ inch long, a little too short for my idea.

SO if you’re running out to buy an old 3S speed overdrive you only want a R11.

Also you want the ones with the SHORT tail.

Rich

Note in the picture the short tail on the bottom left and you really do not want the bottom right, it may not fit any Explorer and most other installs.

ALSO You really want the metal can "the solenoid" this controls the shifting, so be warned they are not cheap.

 

[donalds]

Thanks, you suggested I "Check this out @410Fortune"

So I asked why?? And what threads of his I should look into?

Rich

Look into all of them

 

[racprops]

Still need this question answered:
This question is: Where does a 03 Ford Explorer with a 5R55S get is speed readout, its VSS ??

Well it seems somehow I hit the right question, the system here popped up a BUNCH of treads about VSS.

And all say it is in the rear end.

I am now going ahead at full speed with the Overdrive.

 

[racprops]

Looking for an OLD Borg Warner Stick Shift 3 speed with over drive Transmission Guy: (just in case one is here...)

Farther info on this idea.

I want to rig an old B&W Overdrive as a simple in and out over drive, manually shifting it with the cable control ONLY. I plan on locking the Solenoid shift system in over drive. The manuals for these say it is a good working system. Operated in this manor will also keep the free wheeling feature locked out.

I want to mount a R11 amidships brownie style between a 03 Ford Explorer’s 5 speed automatic and rear end, so I have NO need for any of the electric controls. One reason is the tight area in the frame of these trucks, where the Solenoid will move the overdrive too far off line.

I plan on only using it as a 6th gear on highways/freeways and plan on just shifting it into overdrive when I am running at such speeds (60MPH up) where the truck and engine can use it.

The question is there any reason not to operate this unit in this manor??

The Solenoid, kick down control, governor, were used to allow an automatic type of shifting the manual transmission, an automatic down shift, and to ease shifting the nonsyncoed first gear. Features not needed or even wanted behind a automatic.

But as a simple manual overdrive it will allow running at 75MPH at engine RPMs of 1600, which can allow MPG as if driving at 50MPH which tests have shown 26/30MPG.

 

[Aviatrix]

Very interesting idea & I'm subscribed to see how it turns out!! Getting a solid 10mpg in town...


My only concern would be the age of components.

Personal experience with an 05 Aviator suggests anything downriver from a new, super-solid part tends to be next in line for replacement if you don't do it all at once (& nowadays I usually just do it allllll, cause good grief, who has the energy for repeat teardowns? Not me).


The 5R55S has its own quirks, as you know, so if you can ensure everything is solid with it (valve replacement kit?), you should be good to go.

If it works, I'll start sourcing parts and spend less time sitting in my driveway making engine noises while I pretend to go places.

And I envy anyone who can machine parts!

 

[racprops]

My only concern would be the age of components. Mine too, but these old transmissions seem to hold up well....made in old USA.

Personal experience with an 05 Aviator suggests anything downriver from a new, super-solid part tends to be next in line for replacement if you don't do it all at once (& nowadays I usually just do it allllll, cause good grief, who has the energy for repeat teardowns? Not me).

As I hope this truck will last I do plan things so if worst comes to worst it can be take out for repairs.


The 5R55S has its own quirks, as you know, so if you can ensure everything is solid with it (valve replacement kit?), you should be good to go.

I suffer a bad convertor so it is getting a full rebuild with all the latest upgrades...should be good to go.

If it works, I'll start sourcing parts and spend less time sitting in my driveway making engine noises while I pretend to go places.

Very interesting idea & I'm subscribed to see how it turns out!! Getting a solid 10mpg in town...

Ouch, I believe yours is one of the even more powerful 3 valve engines...seems power always means more fuel....you might get a Scan Gauge II and see what MPG you able to get at 1500 to 1800 RPMs, at least you can see what it might do.

Sadly this will only help on the open road, I plan of taking a number of road trips, what I call day trips, where 90% of the driving will be getting there on freeways at 75/85 MPG. That is when I will be cutting in the second OD. In the city I will also be able to cut in the OD only on the freeways...but as this will combine non freeway driving the overall numbers will drop.

Seems the only cure for city driving is small, small cars and even smaller engines...my wife's 2000 Toyota Camry gets around 25 almost pure city, and seems able to do 30/35 highway at say 70MPH.

It is funny but low speeds do not always mean higher MPG, you have to be going some MPH to get in the sweet spot around 50 to 65MPH depending on the car.

I will have to test that car soon.

It is too small for any real road trips so we do not enjoy them in it.

Rich

 

[RangerNutt]

Following this with interest. Overall a pretty great approach; keep low end performance for when needed but gain access to higher efficiencies automagically when conditions allow. (Just swapping out the fixed gearing could never do both.)

Any success with having the splines cut/ground? Guessing the hardness at Rc 32 - 38. It's doable but no fun for the guy running the machine. Might have to seek out a specialty shop.

 

[racprops]

Following this with interest. Overall a pretty great approach; keep low end performance for when needed but gain access to higher efficiencies automagically when conditions allow. (Just swapping out the fixed gearing could never do both.)

I agree, the truck is a snappy performer as is, just need a extra gear for highway, and NO other way to do this, the 6/8/10 speed transmission only step 10% more in their highest OD. The double OD really steps down.

Any success with having the splines cut/ground?

I have a shop that does axles all the time, I had two output shafts splined for $150.00. look up this page for pictures...

Guessing the hardness at Rc 32 - 38. It's doable but no fun for the guy running the machine. Might have to seek out a specialty shop.

 

[Dennis J.A.A.]

Love my 03 4.6 4Wd Explorer XLT.

There is ONE SMALL problem: 14 to 18 MPG @ $4.50 per.

Running a scan gauge II as I have found with a number of cars and trucks: MPG CAN be good, 25 to 32MPG Good IF I can drive at 1500 to 1800RPMs.

Really!

But that means driving around 50 to 55MPH. (Who can drive that slow??)

So I for one have a plan. I will add an OLD idea, an old Borg Warner Overdrive. Removed from behind a old 3 speed with overdrive. These are in reality TWO transmissions bolted together, the Overdrive was s added on second transmission, a two speed with a 1:1 main gear and a .70 second gear. They can be split a part. These were made from 1938 to 1964…millions of them. If you really dig you can find them from $100.00 to $500.00.

Hundreds of them have been done. At time to time companies have made convertor parts to do this.

A company names gear Venders is still making add on second Overdrives at around $3 to 4K.

What this gives you is a MAJOR RPM drop at speed. From about 2240 at 75MPH to 1650 RPMs. This can mean a drop from 16/18MPG to 25 to 30MPG.

Currently no one is doing these conversions to the old B&W OD so I am doing my own. Why? Because I can do this for less than a $1K.

One of the factors is cost VS benefit: the cost of a second OD VS how much will you save. $1K will be paid off much faster than $4K.

It will take a pair of machine shops to do it. I can with a large manual old Lathe do most of it. And with an outside shop cutting the splines convert what was the input to the overdrive from the 3 speed to now have a U joint input so it can be mounted about a foot behind the main output of a transmission. A second drive shaft will be needed from the OD to the rear end.

And on 4WD the brown wire cut out so the front section will not try to cut in with running in 2nd. OD.

I will do a step by step instructions and photos as I do it and share them. And real world results good and/or bad.

I believe I have it 95% worked out. In fact there is only one detail I need.

This question is: Where does a 03 Ford Explorer with a 5R55S get is speed readout, its VSS ?? And at what rate, or pulse rate per second?

To get a corrected speed I will need to know where it is and if it is inside the transmission, from the OSS output, then I may need to rig up one at the back output of the OD.

OR it is at the rear end. (as I have been told by one person…)

If it is in fact at the rear end as part of the four wheel automatic system I and anyone that wants to follow me: we are home free.

Rich

PS this is NO overnight OMG Gas Prices fix. This is a project I have been working on for a number of years. I am doing this kind of set up for my 93 Van as well.

Wow! You completely lost me after: "Love my 03 4.6 4Wd Explorer XLT."
I'm not a trans guy

 

[Rick]

I run a Gearvendors OD in my hot rod. It's a super simple setup and does it's job very well. I'm watching this thread to see how it all works out for you.