$1707.90

[crunchie_frog]

This is what I have in my cart at Rock Auto including the % discount and shipping. This past week, I put on new upper control arms and lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, front wheel hubs, and new shocks all the way around on my daughter's 243,000 5.0 AWD Mountaineer. Had it aligned afterwards and now drives / rides much nicer now, of course. So much nicer I thought maybe I should do this to the other three 5.0 AWDs I have (minus the shocks). All have over 200,000 miles all have had lower ball joints and upper control arms replaced about 75,000 miles ago but not the wheel bearings. While I was at it I thought I might as well do the rear wheel bearings on all 4 since these may go at some point in the future. The price above does not include the differential fluid or the additive for all 4 so throw in another $100.

So my real questions are (given the time on my hands with no end in sight)

1. Do you think doing PM replacement of front and rear bearings is a good idea on these vehicles since they all have over 200,000 miles and I am planning to keep these for a while.
2. If you are doing the front hubs, would you go ahead and do the lower ball joints and upper control arms since you are already pretty close to having everything removed that you need to do this given they have 75,000 plus miles on them.

 

[boominXplorer]

Please screenshot your cart. There's no reason to spend that kind of money on a 250k mi truck unless the truck is down and is your only transportation. If it needs front end parts sure, do it all at once to make it easier. Beyond that piecemeal fix the rest as you go.

Ignore me if your also pulling the engine out to regasket/refresh. It can add up pretty quickly and most can be justified doing it all at once. I like my old trucks and would do the same to keep mine going. Just remember the condition of the truck when your spending all this money and make sure its justified/worth it.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Below is screen shot. If forgot, I added 12 oil filters at 2.99 each so that should not be part of the total. Also, this is for 3 trucks front end and rear wheel bearings for 4 trucks. All of these are in excellent shape, no rust, interiors all excellent. I have a rebuilt engine and rebuilt transmission in my garage for when one of them gives up. The front hubs are ~$100 a piece so that is $600.

 

[C420sailor]

Eh. If the joints are fine, I’d wait. I’m all about ‘while you’re in there’ kind of work when deferring the work would be a massive pain in the ass, but front suspension isn’t one of those things. Changing a UCA or wheel bearing at a later date is a quick and easy job. 75k on good bearings (I recommend Timken over National, btw) is nothing. I’ve had Timkens last over 150k without issue. Remember, most suspension components will give you plenty of warning before failure. I’d focus on things that will work fine one day and **** the bed the next.

I threw the kitchen sink at my 120k Ex’s suspension. It was $$$. But there were two factors involved:

I planned to use it to commute to a job where I absolutely could not be late due to a breakdown.

Literally nothing had been replaced in its 21 year life. The truck squeaked, groaned, and floated its way down the road. All parts, with the exception of one front hub/bearing, were 100% original. It was scary to drive.

If you need a mega reliable daily driver, maybe give one of them the royal treatment with pre-emptive replacement. The others? Replace parts as required.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Thanks C420, yes, sort of leaning that way myself. One thing, all bearings have over 200 K miles, not 75 K as you said. Would that make any difference or would you still just wait until they fail?

 

[C420sailor]

200k is a real good run. They making noise? ABS light on? Any play in them?

 

[Mbrooks420]

If I were doing all that work, I’d add in the inner tire rods. Brake fluid flush as well.

 

[96eb96]

Maybe time to refresh the limited slip clutch packs. Carbon fiber is a good choice. Maybe then when you pull the axles its worth to do the seals and bearings. The bearings usually last forever but end seals usually leak, but I don't see too much of that with Explorers. Don't forget parking brakes!

Put a jack under the lower ball joint, if there is no play I would pass on replacing them. Your call. I don't think this design could break free, but it could wear the tire. A Ford mechanic told me a while back all the Ex's and F150s(same part) have worn front BJs. When mine were a tiny bit worn he said if it was his truck he would leave em. His theory was the torsion bar suspension. Eventually I noticed a bit of tire wear and replaced them.

Tie rods? Mine are all original. Do you have play? I sometimes worry the new part quality won't be as good as the old.

But for peace of mind, go for it. In the big picture it is not alot of money, and you have a very reliable car. Much less than even 1 car payment for a new explorer(you are fixing up a bunch for that price).

Sounds like a lot but if you plan on another 15-20 years its a bargain. Buy any used inexpensive car you are going to be putting at least $1000 into it, and you still don't know its history.

 

[crunchie_frog]

200k is a real good run. They making noise? ABS light on? Any play in them?

No play, no noise, no abs.

 

[C420sailor]

No play, no noise, no abs.

Unless I was taking this thing on long trips, I’d run ‘em.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Given my original two questions below and not hearing strong reasons for doing this PM work, I am going to delay this and wait until I have bearing failures, signs of imminent bearing failures or more obvious signs of ball joint issues. I flush the brake fluid every two years, parking brakes are all in good condition and have been previously replaced.

1. Do you think doing PM replacement of front and rear bearings is a good idea on these vehicles since they all have over 200,000 miles and I am planning to keep these for a while.
2. If you are doing the front hubs, would you go ahead and do the lower ball joints and upper control arms since you are already pretty close to having everything removed that you need to do this given they have 75,000 plus miles on them.