1954 F100 short bed body onto a 1999 Ranger short bed Chassis

[allmyEXes]

I'm looking forward to and have been putting in a lot of thought about this stage. One thing for sure though I have a large amount of dirty work to do first. I want to sandblast, prep, prime everything to do with the cab and even install the repair panel pieces first. I may need new doors before the repair panels. Like I said, I've been putting a lot of thought in to when to exactly do this part.
The picture below is of Adam Scott's F100.

He is using the Explorer Dash assembly. I'm going to keep it '54 on the inside.

 

[Josh P]

Today I got the shaft from the Machinist.

When he asks how are you paying, your response is, perpetually.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P Weakly? As in he's getting funds from a continually depleting source...

 

[allmyEXes]

I was thinking about the shifter for a bit. Thanks to Jamie on refreshing my memory on which way the Explorer/Ranger cable moves and what it does. 2 plus years ago he helped me out when I broke the cable in the white '97 when I was working on an Intermediate shaft issue. The cable inner housing can be broken making the cable useless. Hopefully when I lower the '99 Ranger column I won't make the same mistake. I've already paid to "go to school" after spending ~$60- on a replacement cable.
The truck shifter moves in the same direction as the inner shift cable needs to go to come out of Park to any of the other gears. So, I need to make a bracket assembly to hold the cable. I have a bracket that bolts to the '54 column that I can use to make the cable bracket. Also, I need a short piece of rigid rod or tube to weld to the mounting bracket. I'm going to have to pirate two pieces off of the Ranger column pretty much making the remainder of it scrap metal. I need to cut of the little piece to hold the outer cable that will be at the end of the rod on the bracket, and I may need to cut off the ball end at the end of the Ranger shift lever to attach the top end of the shift cable to. That is if I can't find an aftermarket ball end.

 

[410Fortune]

Im not sure if this helps you
but I made a gen II column shifter fit a non column shifter console, this was a 1984 ranger with 92 steering column

basically with some simple metal brackets and some threaded spacer nuts
I doubled up on the collars that hold the stock plastic shifter bushings in place (one set upside down)
This created mounts for the two sets of bushings and the gate shifter assembly
Turned out slick, used factory cables and gave us OD cancel button
Can be adapted to basically any round steering column that is steel

 

[allmyEXes]

I see what you did and that looks like it worked out real well.

My '54 F100 column tube has an external shift rod stacked on top of it.

 

[410Fortune]

well that is way easier!!

 

[allmyEXes]

Yesterday afternoon 1-28-23, I opened the doors to the 54F100/Ranger project storage area, put my good battery in it and started it up. I backed it out of its spot to sit outside and run for ~ 30 minutes. It has always had kind of a sputter since I have owned it. In the past, I've used some DG fuel treatment and it didn't seem to make any difference. Next time, I will almost run it out of gas and then put in a few gallons of fresh fuel. I don't doubt that the IAC may need some cleaning too. This is a Flex fuel 3.0. A few years back, I put in 100% pure gasoline. It did not like that at all. Being Flex fuel, it must want some alcohol in the fuel. AFAIK, it can run on up to 85% alcohol.
A few months ago, I was trying to get the cruise control that I had added to work. Yesterday I noticed that I had never bolted down the module with the pull cable coming out of it to the metal apron. Does anyone know if it has to be bolted down to the apron to ground it?
Hopefully in late May, After one completed 1965 Mustang Coupe restoration and well in to a 1966 Mustang Coupe restoration, I will be able to perform the dirty work on the '54 cab before it is mated to the Ranger floor pan to finally be able to say that the Ranger is now the '54 and fasten the antique Vintage Vehicle plate on it. (long sentence). With doors and working signals and also Hagerty Insurance, it would be Alabama legal, and in the daylight, I could drive it back and forth from its home storage spot to work to be able to work from time to time. 4.75 miles one way.
Stay tuned!

 

[Rangebinder]

Yesterday afternoon 1-28-23, I opened the doors to the 54F100/Ranger project storage area, put my good battery in it and started it up. I backed it out of its spot to sit outside and run for ~ 30 minutes. It has always had kind of a sputter since I have owned it. In the past, I've used some DG fuel treatment and it didn't seem to make any difference. Next time, I will almost run it out of gas and then put in a few gallons of fresh fuel. I don't doubt that the IAC may need some cleaning too. This is a Flex fuel 3.0. A few years back, I put in 100% pure gasoline. It did not like that at all. Being Flex fuel, it must want some alcohol in the fuel. AFAIK, it can run on up to 85% alcohol.
A few months ago, I was trying to get the cruise control that I had added to work. Yesterday I noticed that I had never bolted down the module with the pull cable coming out of it to the metal apron. Does anyone know if it has to be bolted down to the apron to ground it?
Hopefully in late May, After one completed 1965 Mustang Coupe restoration and well in to a 1966 Mustang Coupe restoration, I will be able to perform the dirty work on the '54 cab before it is mated to the Ranger floor pan to finally be able to say that the Ranger is now the '54 and fasten the antique Vintage Vehicle plate on it. (long sentence). With doors and working signals and also Hagerty Insurance, it would be Alabama legal, and in the daylight, I could drive it back and forth from its home storage spot to work to be able to work from time to time. 4.75 miles one way.
Stay tuned!

Nice way to start the year, Love the way you trimmed the ranger firewall and floor pan looks like it was meant to be Mr. Ford would be proud as you should be, looking forward for more updates to follow. I have visited with 410Fourtune a little seeking some advise on wiring, so i don't let the smoke out of my wiring defiantly a lot of very talented people here and the articles i have read not really any haters, Hats off to the moderators.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Rangebinder The pictures in post # 161 are pictures of Adam Scott's project. My trimming will be similar with the exception of the bottom piece of the cowl section that he kept, I'll probably remove. He kept it because he is using the complete Explorer dashboard. I'll be using the '54 dash in my project. I have a little more figuring out to do and I hope to be able to get back on this project this late spring. I have a limited amount of space at work where the necessary tools are, sandblasting equipment, mig welder etc. I currently have it stored at home and try to start up the Ranger every few weeks. I'm hopeful that I can start it this upcoming Sunday. I have been trying to gain some knowledge as it has to do with custom tuning because the future drivetrain for the '54 Ranger project is in my '97 Mountaineer, 5.0/4R70W/8.8. I'm in the middle of a coil-near-plug conversion that is a bit complicated as I use and adapt Ford parts from different vehicles.
Jamie @410Fortune has been very patient and helpful with the many questions and ideas that I have. He has extra special talent and patience for working with cross model/generational drivetrain and wiring swaps.
This Forum here, of all the people from the creator all the way through all participants is excellent example of how all automotive forums should be.

 

[Rangebinder]

My swap was 49 Binder to the ranger after plenty of measuring wasn’t much left of the ranger a section with the column, swing pedal assembly and E brake, floor tunnel. I was really surprised it all fit in as well as it did.

i will have to see if i can find Adam Scott's project. Thanks.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Rangebinder Make a new thread with some pictures of what you went through. Maybe use the Ford Lincoln Mercury section.
Adam Scott's pictures are on this Facebook group. You may have to sign up for the group to see what is going on.
Facebook-Explorer F100 Chassis Swap

 

[allmyEXes]

A part arrived yesterday that I won't need for a while but it is from an Asian source and I thought that I would get it before Asian parts are hard to get. A 100% aluminum radiator that fits in the stock radiator spot on the '54 F100. It has the fat top tank like original.

 

[LucaPu]

It's a lot of fun to read. You obviously know a lot about the 1954 Ford F100 and I'm learning something new here

 

[Stone20923]

I'm new here. I have a 1954 F100 I want to swap onto a ranger and keep ranger dash. Is there a certain ranger year range that works best or if I find a newer wrecked ranger for cheap would that work. The project is for my boys and me.

 

[allmyEXes]

1995 and up Explorer 4 door and 1998 Ranger Splash shorty. Most people use the Explorer or Ranger dash complete however, I'm partial to the original dash. I've only seen 2 trucks that the original dash was kept in place. I want to feel like I'm inside of an old 50's truck even though I'm riding on independent suspension.

 

[allmyEXes]

My 1954 F100/1999 Ranger project has been on hold for several months. I was able to get the old truck frame with the cab on it moved to our sandblast area but ever since we upgraded the main air supply line to 3/4" pipe we haven't had a big hose long enough to go from the supply to the blaster. We recently bought a 50 foot jackhammer hose with Chicago or universal connectors on it. The weather is not quite stable enough to get into the blasting, prepping and priming. The hose looks good for import.

Last night I was on Market Place looking for a 1994-96 F-150 5.0 Windsor and a 1994 5.0 Mustang near complete injection assembly was
for sale. Cold air kit, MAFs, throttle body, upper and lower halves with fuel rails, injectors, injector harness. Missing the bolt set for the
upper plenum and missing the cover plate. I have a 1994 Mustang long block, new Explorer pan, all of the front dress off of a 1998
Explorer 5.0 including the hb/damper/36-1 trigger ring. I need a late year 1998 to 2001 Explorer/Mountaineer single fuel rail and I still
need to buy a 1997-2001 5.0 Explorer timing cover, water pump and alternator.
The original plan was to convert the 1997 Mountaineer 5.0 to coil-near-plug then transfer it all to the '54Ranger project, but now
I'm going to keep the Mountaineer together for a DD and put together a 2nd 5.0 for the '54 f-100. I've been chatting back and forth
with a guy with a 4R70W that at least has a good case for a 5.0. I have a 1996 4.6 Thunderbird 4R70W for the guts.

Cheap. Man was asking $150. I gave 2/3rds of that. This will have to do until a tubular GT40 set-up becomes obtainable. It will be more
than $100-.

 

[CDW6212R]

Is that a Mustang Cobra intake, or just the stock one?

I'd forget the tubular GT40 intake, those were asking $750 just for the upper, last I saw one. The Explorer intake flows the same as all of the Cobra models, do that one or whatever your favorite is. I've got a BBK SSI intake I'm going to fix and use on my 347, it looks wild and people love to talk about it(mostly bad talk).

 

[allmyEXes]

Which is it Don? The Lower has an E6 part number. The upper has this number in picture below.

1991 Tunderbird?

 

[CDW6212R]

That looks like a 1994/95 Mustang, by the curved part of the upper intake. I don't think a Thunderbird had one like that, but I don't know those at all. My guess was the SN95 Mustang, I've got a wrecked 94 GT with that.