1956 F100 Explorer Chassis Swap

[56explorer]

Well, the kids are being quiet right now, not sure if that is a good thing, but I guess I have time to get more on here.

The removal of the rear half was a bit challenging. The fuel tank had to be removed so I didn't blow up my shop. I started with the filler cap, neck and tubes.

Unbolted the strap

and removed the front two bolts to let down the front side to gain access to the other stuff.

You will NEED this tool to remove the fuel lines from the tank

Then onto the big piece. 2 of the 4 bolts came out without fuss...

The other two...

...needed a little extra convincing. The bushings that retain the "nut" are no longer holding in place and continue to spin when I turn the bolts. So they were extracted by other means.

I would rather have more material than to cut the floor too short, so this was the point I decided I'd cut, marked with tape for reference.

When I measured the 56 cab, it was 48 inches from the front to back from the points I decided could be measured comparably. This seam was very close, but I added another 12 to be safe, plus I might attempt to utilize the studs in the floor to help mount some of the electronics behind the seat. (computer, keyless entry box, etc)

This monster came from Harbor Freight Tools for $19.99 and was stronger and tougher than I imagined it being for that price.

While I was there I also picked up this lowrider creeper for the same price

My first cut

Careful, don't cut the frame or anything else. I removed the rear wheels for easier removal of the body.

Voila

 

[56explorer]

I have made a list of items for the rear half (frame down) I will be replacing, not that it is completely necessary, but I want these items to be fresh when it's ready to go. These items will not be installed until the truck is painted and will be driven. Just want to make the list while it's fresh in my head, especially since I have had a chance to evaluate the rear. This list may evolve in the future.

Prices were pulled from AutoZone.com and rounded
-Bilstein 4600 Series shock absorbers ($80-90 each, a couple of options)
-Axle Damper Shock ($50)
-Brake Rotors ($50 each)
-Brake Pads ($55)
-Rear End Gear Fluid Change (prob less than $25)
-Rear End Gasket ($20)

Total: $450 (approx) will improve braking, ride, and the maintenance that it probably never seen before.

Tires and Wheels will most-likely be the last items I purchase.

Last night I removed the exhaust, shields, shocks and other hardware to prepare for the cleaning of the frame and get the "extra" items removed.

I played a little.... just for fun, it won't be this low.

I scraped, sanded, and wire-brushed the frame prior to primer. I still need to clean other surfaces, but got anxious to put some paint on it and cleaned up.

One thing I quickly noticed is how the frame is not exact on either side. There are dips, hills, and other characteristics that will need to be kept in mind when measuring for the bed's mounts.

The rear, fortunately, is level across

... and this ONE point where there are already holes in the frame that I hope to use for mounting.

What does this do and what is it called. I didn't trace all the tubing, but I believe it has to do with the return fuel line to the tank???

 

[just1me]

I believe the black box with the hoses running to it is the charcoal canister for emissions.

 

[curt1007]

A great job, I'm so impressed with your commitment to doing this right.

:-

 

[56explorer]

I believe the black box with the hoses running to it is the charcoal canister for emissions.

Thank you! I picked up a Haynes manual tonight at AutoZone to get even more useful info. I should have done that a couple of weeks ago. Now I know what to look for in it.

I believe I will need to relocate it about an inch or so below its current location for the bed to clear.

 

[56explorer]

A great job, I'm so impressed with your commitment to doing this right.

:-

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I just wanted to make a detailed log for others to be able to see, use, and enjoy. Having an audience has helped keep me structured on the build. It may be slow and I may have some other obligations, but this is just a hobby and I'm enjoying it! Thanks again!

 

[fordkid88]

Can you heat up the uneven section to make it match.

 

[56explorer]

Can you heat up the uneven section to make it match.

Not without causing other issues. I will need to fabricate mounting brackets of different heights to compensate. I have a couple of plans in mind.

 

[fordkid88]

Not without causing other issues. I will need to fabricate mounting brackets of different heights to compensate. I have a couple of plans in mind.

Speaking of which I found this for you.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1181452-53-f100-with-explorer-frame-54-55-56-a-2.html

Not much but it shows some ideas for cab mounts.

 

[56explorer]

Speaking of which I found this for you.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1181452-53-f100-with-explorer-frame-54-55-56-a-2.html

Not much but it shows some ideas for cab mounts.

When I sold the frame, the cab mounts were riveted on and could not be easily removed , so they went with it. They are expensive to buy new, so the mounts will be custom made.

 

[56explorer]

Stock mounts I've found cost $150, each! Plus would still need to be modified. I've got some contacts locally that can fab thick steel

 

[56explorer]

When I bought the 56, it came with an extra set of fenders. There are the original ones with no spare tire dip, and a set with the dip. (brown ones you may see in previous pictures hanging on the wall) I thought maybe the previous owner wanted to have the spare on the side. I don't care much for that look, although it is nostalgic, it just isn't appealing to my eyes. So while perusing Craigslist, I spotted this bed for sale:

It features a set of fenders INSIDE! It got me thinking, because it DID have a very narrow S-10 rear end, was this their plan for the extra fenders?!?!?!?

Here are more pics:

Well, with the rear frame exposed and the other frame vs. bed mounting questions I asked myself, why not take an opportunity to see what the bed looks like sitting in place. Although it's HEAVY, I managed to carefully wobble it in the shop and used some boards to slide it into place and hung a fender to get a good look!

The rear wheel sits very well in the center of the opening and the frame it butted right up to the end of the bed's mounting spots. This is pretty close to where it will be. This is just for mock-up purposes to get visuals and measurements.

Because of the charcoal canister, I didn't want to set it on the frame metal yet, so it will be dropped down 2-3 inches!!!

The very rear probably has 4 inches to drop

I started disassembling the motor connections last night, I think I will create a new thread for the detailed parts for that, but I will post a link here on this one when I am ready to get hot and heavy on it.

 

[Rick]

You're really moving right along with this Thanks for the detailed photos.

 

[56explorer]

You're really moving right along with this Thanks for the detailed photos.

Thank you! I'm doing as much as possible while the weather is mild, I'm not a cold weather person and my shop is not heated nor fully insulated. So, it may slow down a bit soon.

I want to share the journey with everyone, and this site makes it easier than flipping through phone pics when I want to show my friends and family the progress.

 

[56explorer]

This is my version of a 5.0 V8 Engine Removal. Mine doesn't necessarily need an overhaul, but I want to inspect the internal parts, replace the hard to get to items, and then some major cleaning. Oil pump, gaskets, sensors, mounts, etc are just some of the main items, besides regular tune up items, like those hard to reach spark plugs (mine look like the originals).

Since I am cutting and welding on the firewall soon, I want to be able to have the majority of the parts out of my way anyway. FYI: Some of the things you see removed in the pics may not be required to be removed for a simple engine removal.

This set of steps was inspired by my Haynes manual and personal experience.

Besides having all the RIGHT TOOLS, be sure to use best judgement, common sense, and all safety precautions that come with doing any work to a vehicle. It can blow you up, squish you, or shred you up into a lot of small pieces

Here are the tools that I remember using. You may need other general tools on top of this list:

Flat screwdriver
Prybar
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
15mm wrench
5/8" line wrench

5/16" socket (normally an 8 or 9mm, but I prefer U.S. on this size for personal use. It fits better and releases bolts easier to me.)
10mm socket 1/4" and 3/8" drive
12mm socket 3/8" drive
13mm socket 3/8" drive
15mm socket 3/8" and 1/2" drive
17mm socket 1/2" drive
3/8" drive 3" extension
1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets
Channel lock and needle nose pliers
Fuel/A/C line removal tools, varying sizes

Note: A/C refrigerant should be recovered (mine was completely empty) correctly by law as well as any other liquids that are removed. Dispose of properly, not in your neighbor's backyard.

One more thing I want to recommend is to Prepare, Label, and Organize. Do your research, maybe pick up a Haynes manual. I like to label electrical connectors & hoses and group parts by location on vehicle. Proper storage and organization is key when going back together to know I can find it easily again because time causes memory loss!

Here goes!

1) Disconnect negative battery cable, then positive. Remove battery all together. I hope you didn't leave the windows down -if not intended- and parked it where you don't have to move it again! It's gonna be there a day or twenty.

2) Relieve the fuel pressure, not the Taco Bell gas. See pic below, there is a small screw cap to remove:

3) Cover fenders, cowl and other parts you do not want damaged by your belt buckle or tools. Remove hood.

4) Remove air cleaner assembly and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors while you are there.

5) Drain the cooling system. The petcock (that's a funny word) should be on the passenger-side at the bottom. Be sure to have a container at least 3, preferably 5 gallons big to collect the antifreeze. It's not Gatorade and will kill your pets, do not leave unattended. Use a 5/8" line wrench to remove the transmission cooler lines.

Don't be alarmed, there was rusty residue in the pan from de-rusting parts. Not oil from the coolant.

6) Disconnect vacuum lines, electrical connections and ground straps, fuel lines, and other hoses. Labeling with masking tape to identify where they reconnect in the future will save from headaches. Special fuel line disconnect tools are a must! Don't use metal or any other object that is not made to remove these lines or you will be up a creek. The fuel lines are not the same size, so there shouldn't be any confusion going back together. Also, cover these lines to minimize dust and debris from getting in them.

7) Detach coolant hoses from the engine and radiator and remove the heater hoses from the firewall.

8) Remove the cooling fan/shroud and radiator.

9) Remove the serpentine belt. It should be a 15mm socket with long breaker bar or something long enough to give it a bit of leverage.

10) Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables. I found it much easier to release the cable from the gas pedal (pushed through the firewall) and the cruise control unit. There were some hard to reach bolts that made it tough for me to do it any other way.

11) Unbolt power steering pump and reservoir. Leave the hoses and lines attached. They do not need to be removed. The pump may need a pry bar to pull it gently from the bracket then up over the top bringing the reservoir along with it. Keep in upright position and restrain it in the battery compartment area.

12) Remove the compressor by disconnecting the electrical connector, A/C lines from the condenser and the A/C dryer. Three 17mm bolts on the bracket that attach to the engine heads are all that are left to pull the whole kit-and-kaboodle from the engine bay.

13) Disconnect wiring connections at firewall. including ground wires. I used cable zip ties to hold items out of the way without causing too much stress on the wiring and it's easy to simply cut when I'm ready to reconnect.

14) Remove the alternator. (I did this probably around step 6... personally)

15) Spray penetrating oil (like WD40) on the exhaust bolts and wait!!!

This was all completed within 4 hours. I got side-tracked on removing other things like the windshield wiper motor and other things that I wanted to get out of the way on the front end. Plus I took three times the pics I posted. This would normally take about 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

The only steps left that I will cover on a future post will be the exhaust, starter, transmission and motor mounts. I do not have a cherry picker (engine crane) right now, so it's a good time to soak parts and continuously move forward with other aspects of the build. Stay tuned for future posts on the remaining removal steps/pics.

 

[56explorer]

Of all the times I've used nitrile gloves, the greasy motor work would have been good to have on. Will need to go get more today. Also need to get a spot weld cutter. I'm sure I will end up with a cart load of stuff!

 

[56explorer]

As I thought I would, I walked out of Harbor Freight Tools today with a little more than I planned.... too many good deals to pass up!!!

The most amazing deal I found was a 1-ton Engine Crane (cherry picker), was REDUCED down to $189.99, but then while in the store my brother found a coupon sheet that had the same item # for only $99.99! That's nearly half price, especially if you consider the tax impact. I didn't get it because it wouldn't fit in my Mustang. But my birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks and the coupon is good until Dec. 22. My wife has been asking what I want for my birthday and Christmas..... yes please!!!

So, if you're looking for a good deal on one, print this out (or just have this pic on your smartphone - they just need the code from it.

I got the exhaust manifolds out last night. That was interesting. To get the passenger side flange bolts, the two that connect the manifold to the exhaust pipes with 15mm bolts, I had to weave through all the tight points by the starter, trans cooling lines, and catalytic converter. This is what I had to use for the inside bolt:

It paid off to soak bolts for 3 days in WD40, nothing broke!!! I used a wobble 1/2" 14mm socket for the 16 total bolts, manifold to head (8 each side, of course) and used a 6" extension.

I also drained the oil and removed the filter. Interesting thing I found, due to the filter being so tight, the rubber seal had stuck and had I installed another filter on top of it, I would have had some major problems. This is usually a result if improper installation, too tight and probably didn't put a film of oil on the rubber gasket.

While I was taking the pictures here, I found 2 straps holding onto wiring that will need to be detached prior to removing the engine. I'm sure there will be a couple more things I will find by then.

 

[56explorer]

Well, I kind of ruined a surprise my wife had for me. I told her that I bought the engine crane from Harbor Freight Tools, she said, "Seriously? I was going to surprise you with it this week for your (early) Birthday gift!!!" I said, "No, I didn't, not when YOU are getting it for me!" LOL!!!

Should be pulling the motor out this weekend. I probably should have an extra set of hands and eyes for this part. Oh brother, where art thou? Hope you aren't busy this weekend!?!?

In the meantime, I have a bit to do to prepare. Gotta remove the transmission, I have no trans jack.... I'll figure it out.

I did remove the cross member, drive shaft, exhaust, and disconnected some of the wiring. Here are some of those pics and info:

Rear seal is dirty but not leaking.

It is normally recommended to use a six-point socket (six flat edges inside the socket or wrench)especially for high torqued bolts and nuts. This is the exception, 12-point socket is the only one that correctly fits. These are 12mm on the drive shaft, no exceptions.

I can barely make out the speedo in this pic.

Amazing how it's night and day on each side of this pic.

The trans mount/cross member is held with the two 13mm bolts with 15mm nuts on each side (the ones on the "inside") and one horizontal long bolt fom front to rear, same sizes.

When I removed the mount nuts 17mm, I believe... the studs shifted, telling me the mount was no good.

Mmmm..... yep... missing some chunks.

I'm suspecting this is why it was throwing an oxygen sensor OBDii trouble code.

And this is why there is such an oily mess on the trans. The oil pan plug is missing some of the original washer and someone has previously tried to use silicone (I call it "silly cone")

Torque Converter and area appears clean though.... that's good!

This spot on top of the trans has three connections for oxygen sensors

It would be best to remove the cover on the "hump" to access these. Save yourself some very dirty arms, muscle cramps, and cuss words.

I didn't get enough pictures before going in for the night, but everything is ready to come out once I've drained the fluid. Trans jack is in my scope. I've been organizing my shop a bit to accommodate the engine removal, so there hasn't been as much Explorer work in the last couple of days as I would have liked.

The trans seemed to shift just fine when it was driven 140 miles, it shouldn't need to be rebuilt, but it will be removed, cleaned, and checked out thoroughly. There are some people who have reported slipping of the trans due to a gasket behind the valve body. I may just go ahead and put a new one in while I am going to be that far into it. These are the first pics I've taken of the trans. It is a bit covered by the oil leak(s) at the motor along with noticeable seepage of the trans pan gasket. When you replace a trans pan gasket, DON'T buy a wadded-up gasket from your local parts store that comes in a box. Go to a reputable trans shop and get the ones they use. They should never be folded or tangled up. They should be stored flat. Quality counts here.

I've ruined a trans in a car before taking the cheap gasket route.... lesson learned. I should have known better, I was raised in my dad's transmission shop. For several years I got to learn about cars, mainly transmissions, but occasionally I would get to mess with other things too. Yeah, I think I forgot to mention that little detail in prior posts. I pulled my first trans when I was 14. Some supervision at first, then I was doing them by myself trying to beat my best times. I got pretty good. That was 20 years ago. Gosh, time flies doesn't it?!?!

FYI: My dad is still around, retired from his shop, and living on the beach somewhere nice and warm. I didn't tell him much about what I was doing until recently I sent him a link to these pages. I was expecting some comments about it that I wouldn't want to hear, but he sounded excited and proud. He even asked me about some of the details.

 

[fordkid88]

Yeah you can't go wrong on the engine lift, if you dont have an engine stand, I recommend this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-69521-8970.html

I bought the 1000lbs stand and while it works it does flex a bit, and I wish I would have spent more on the larger stand. And given the awesomeness of this build I recommend subscribing to Classic Trucks and Custom Classic Trucks because the harborfreight coupons from these two magazine have more than paid for the subscription.

 

[56explorer]

Thanks fordkid88!!!! Maybe I'll find a coupon from harbor freight for the stand! I'm on their mailing list for coupons, my popular mechanics mags have them usually too (just a page or two though) I find myself looking at sooooooooo many magazines when I'm at the store, I just need to add them to my Christmas list! I just wish there were more detailed build mags out there for the custom stuff that showed how they did it, more than just the results. Same goes for some of newer shows on car building.